y-pipe issues

**02Ls1Formula** · 01-15-2007, 10:18 AM

ok ive had the headers/y pipe installed for a few days now and everything works great except one thing, my y-pipe rattles against the body, i took it to a muffler shop and the guy said if i weld a bracket to it, i might break the header, so is there anything i can do to stop it from rattling? it only does at about 2500 RMS and downshifts.....thanks for the help

**badazta** · 01-15-2007, 10:31 AM

its commen. I bought a bracket from ws6store.com ( it mounts to your floorpan via heatshield bolt and has a exhuast brackets with two rubber bushings)I haven't installed it yet, I'm going to run a true dual setup instead. Previous threads said to change the motormounts. I paid 40 for my bracket. still new and in box if your interested in going that route I'll sell it to you for what I paid shipped.

**nhraformula** · 01-15-2007, 12:39 PM

heat up the y pipe and bend it alittle. or take a crobar and pull downwards.

**sunsetorangess** · 01-15-2007, 02:42 PM

I actualy had too cut about a foot long section out of my y under the driver side floor plan and then weld in a different piece that i bent. I also added a mufflex bumpstop. And now i have no banging issues.
J

**9T8W66** · 01-16-2007, 09:01 AM

Try some poly motor mounts. Your stockers are probably bad.

**98Camarod** · 01-16-2007, 09:20 AM

I have the same problem. I am awaiting on my tsp true dual setup (they are on backorder).

**Red Chevy** · 01-17-2007, 01:30 AM

Originally Posted by 9T8W66

Try some poly motor mounts. Your stockers are probably bad.

I agree with this person. I recently installed LT's and my Y-pipe was hitting the body. When I was at the muffler shop the guy showed me how my motor was sitting sideways and told me it rocked too much when we powerbraked it to try and make the noise. Some of the noise was the driver side header rubbing on the lower control arm, and the rest was the y-pipe hitting the body. I just wish I would have seen the mounts were bad when I had all the exhaust out for the headers. It cost me a good bit to put it in the shop to have the mounts changed. Whoever reads this comment, please change your mounts if you do a header swap. It will save you time, aggrevation and a fuckin' stack later down the line. Also I went with the Prothane motor and tranny mounts. Definitely not as soft as the stock mounts but the vibration isnt as bad as you would think. Unless your motor just runs like shit. Plus the new mounts will handle the additional power that you will make. And although headers aren't that much an increase in HP, trust me you ain't stoppin there. Cause after the headers, then you want/need a tune. Then after you're used to the tune, you need torque converter, gears and shift kit and who knows what else after that. Also, GET SUB FRAME CONNECTORS and have those bitches welded in. Although I did pick up 2 m.p.g. after headers and tune the connectors are hands down the BEST thing I've done to my car so far. The connectors actually make the suspension act the way it is supposed to. Oh yeah, to answer all questions about the ebay headers, relatively easy installation and you cant beat stainless steel for under $350 for a set. So remember the moral of this story is change the muthafuckin' motor mounts when the exhaust is out.

I was like this after I did all the work of putting the headers in and didn't change the mounts.

And one more thing before I forget. When you get the headers, buy some header wrap and wrap the wires under the car that are close to the headers, for instance, the front sensor wire harness'. wrap those pretty well, because they will melt. Luckily I caught mine just in time, I only managed to melt the outer casing. And if anyone was wondering if you get the Diablo tuner for our car the U7198, it does turn off the rear o2 sensors so no need to buy simulators. I hope this helps a few people and keeps a little money in your pocket and sanity in your life. Remember CHANGE THE FUCKIN" MOUNTS. This is me after I put headers in then found out mounts were bad and had to pay about $450 (that's $90/hr labor) to get them installed.

**Ripper415** · 01-17-2007, 02:01 PM

wow that sucks. thanks for saving the rest of us the headache. i'll have to remember this when i do headers in the spring.

**nhraformula** · 01-17-2007, 03:26 PM

not all of us need to change the fuckin mounts. mine were fine.

**0rion** · 01-18-2007, 11:45 PM

Before I started changing mounts I would play with the exhaust setup first. I had the same issues when I put on my headers and Y. First I just cut a piece of rubber hose and stuck between the Y and floorboard and that cured it for the time being. When I did the new rear and all the suspension stuff last winter I decided I was gonna fix it once and for all so I spent a little time playing with it and finally figured out what was going on.
I found that on my car the angle of the pipe going over the axle is crucial. I had to loosen the clamp right above the axle and try different positions with the intermediate pipe. After I found a good angle that gave me good clearances with the Y I stuck blocks of wood between the body and the Y to make the Y hold it's position then tightened everything down real good and knocked the blocks out. Haven't had a single instance of it banging the floor since.

**firesilver** · 02-11-2007, 01:09 PM

Yeah definitley wrap all wires around the headers in heat wrap. just on the drive home from installing my headers the plastic on the o2 wires started to melt.