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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    May 2007
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    Philadelphia
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    7

    Red
    2002 Trans Am

    Wow...Fast as hell WS6.....

    What do you guys think 2002 with 15k on it only. Has not been driven since the mods. A4 with stock tranny and rear, do you think these will be fine or do I need to upgrade. I also drive about 200 miles a week.

    1-fast toys ram air
    2-descreened MAF
    3-7.4 Crane push rods
    4-Shane 3 fast 90mm TB ported and polished
    5-fats intaked manifold
    6-3.73 gears
    7-smooth bellows
    8-double roller timing chain
    9-subframe connectors of rear and front
    10-160 stat
    11-under drive and alternator pully with harmonic dampening just on crank
    12-shift kit
    13-ngk plugs
    14-granetelli wires
    15-emp stewart componets 140 gmp pump

    This is were I need you guy at, I dont want a cam thats is choppy so what do you think about going with a LSA 113, 114 and what other specs.
    2-exhaust - x pipe all the way back, over or under axle, do i do mandrel bent, true duals, bullet, hf cats or no cats, this is where I am stuck.
    3-Torque convertor, 3200 or 3600, not sure
    and last I I know I am going with Kook or QTP long tubes, but what size 1 7/8" or 1 3/4".

    So let me know what you think.

  2. #2
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    Dec 2002
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    black
    2000 nhra edition formula

    leave the maf alone, get a ls2 timing chain instead of the double roller, no need for a new fuel pump, 228/228 cam kit on a 114 lsa, no cats if possible in your state, 3600 t/converter and headers of your choice
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

  3. #3
    Junior Member
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    Red
    2002 Trans Am

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Member stanger88's Avatar
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    Shreveport, LA
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    38
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    297

    Black on black.
    2001 WS6 M6 (stock)

    If you take the thing over 6K rpm you will blow a stock 4L60E. Period. They dont care as much about hp and tq as they do about rpm. This is why you see turbo/nitrous cars with 4-500whp on stock trannies but a 380whp cam car eats them like a fat kid in a cupcake shop.

  5. #5
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    2005 GTO M6 Black
    2000 Z28 A4 Red

    Lower the LSA the more choppy it will sound. No duals under the axle.

  6. #6
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    black
    2000 nhra edition formula

    Quote Originally Posted by stanger88 View Post
    If you take the thing over 6K rpm you will blow a stock 4L60E. Period. They dont care as much about hp and tq as they do about rpm. This is why you see turbo/nitrous cars with 4-500whp on stock trannies but a 380whp cam car eats them like a fat kid in a cupcake shop.
    bullshit youll blow it. stock setting are higher than 6k.
    many ls1 owners including myself have had zero problems going past 6k, matter of fact, my cars shift points are 6600 in first, 6500 in second and third.

  7. #7
    Member stanger88's Avatar
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    Black on black.
    2001 WS6 M6 (stock)

    Quote Originally Posted by nhraformula View Post
    bullshit youll blow it. stock setting are higher than 6k.
    many ls1 owners including myself have had zero problems going past 6k, matter of fact, my cars shift points are 6600 in first, 6500 in second and third.
    RPM kills 4L60E's. Ask any performance shop who builds them. RPM is the main killer, right behind excessive heat in a big stall applications.

  8. #8
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stanger88 View Post
    RPM kills 4L60E's. Ask any performance shop who builds them. RPM is the main killer, right behind excessive heat in a big stall applications.
    beating the hell out of the car is the main killer.
    many of us auto guys rev up high and were good.
    will the trans go over time, yes, but a manual will also take a shit.

  9. #9
    Member danziger's Avatar
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    563

    Le Mans Blue
    2004 Z16

    Quote Originally Posted by Niteowl94 View Post
    What do you guys think 2002 with 15k on it only. Has not been driven since the mods. A4 with stock tranny and rear, do you think these will be fine or do I need to upgrade. I also drive about 200 miles a week.

    1-fast toys ram air
    2-descreened MAF
    3-7.4 Crane push rods
    4-Shane 3 fast 90mm TB ported and polished
    5-fats intaked manifold
    6-3.73 gears
    7-smooth bellows
    8-double roller timing chain
    9-subframe connectors of rear and front
    10-160 stat
    11-under drive and alternator pully with harmonic dampening just on crank
    12-shift kit
    13-ngk plugs
    14-granetelli wires
    15-emp stewart componets 140 gmp pump

    This is were I need you guy at, I dont want a cam thats is choppy so what do you think about going with a LSA 113, 114 and what other specs.
    2-exhaust - x pipe all the way back, over or under axle, do i do mandrel bent, true duals, bullet, hf cats or no cats, this is where I am stuck.
    3-Torque convertor, 3200 or 3600, not sure
    and last I I know I am going with Kook or QTP long tubes, but what size 1 7/8" or 1 3/4".

    So let me know what you think.
    My $.02:

    I would skip the FAST/90mm TB for now and just do a ported 78mmTB on your LS6 intake.
    I have a Rollmaster double, but the LS2 timing-chain works great for 1/2 the price.
    Make your own "smooth bellows".
    Skip the plug wires...stock ones are good to over 600rwhp. Ask me how I know...
    Under the axle always looks ghetto to me. At your power-level a good Y-pipe set-up would be fine and a dumped true-dual would be best performance-wise.
    Cam-only? 1 3/4 headers for sure...

  10. #10
    Next Race= WSIR 2/26-27 SIK02SS's Avatar
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    Too many

    TDs over the axle....NOT under.

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