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Won't stay running

This is a discussion on Won't stay running within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I just installed a BBK SSI intake, BBK 85mm throttle body with adapter plate and both gaskets, SLP preformance MAF ...

  1. #1
    The name says it all !!!FAST!!!'s Avatar
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    Won't stay running

    I just installed a BBK SSI intake, BBK 85mm throttle body with adapter plate and both gaskets, SLP preformance MAF sensor, SLP CAI, SLP lid, and SLP smooth bellows. Now when I start it it revs to about 2000 rpms and then drops and wants to stall out. I can keep it running by feathering the gas and eventually it will stay running long enough for me to get out and feather the accelerator from under the hood. It sounds like there is a back fire from inside the intake when it starts to stall and I try to rev it back up. I have HP tuner PRO and I hooked it up and the only thing I noticed was the MAF was around .31 lb/min at lowest and 4.17 lb/min at highest. The column all the way at the right has a low of 60 and a high of 125. I'm assuming those are what normal readings should fall between. Also I noticed that the exhaust was glowing orange. I was thinking that was because of the upgrades and the fact that I'm running while sitting in the garage with no airflow to cool it. Can anyone help me figure this out? With all these upgrades do I need to get it tuned or anything?

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    I think your computer needs to learn the new curve with the added lungs. Give it some milage. It should adjust. You can also try disconnecting the battery to have it relearn as well. I don't know the quicker route. I don't think you need a tune for the mods you made unless you have previous mods not listed. If you had header, heads now giviving the intake more flow it could pose a problem for the PCM.
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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    btw where you located in San Diego ?

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    The name says it all !!!FAST!!!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    btw where you located in San Diego ?
    I'm stationed at 32nd st. Naval Base on the USS McClusky. But I live right off of El Cajon Blvd off the 15. How about you? BTW thanks for the info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    I think your computer needs to learn the new curve with the added lungs. Give it some milage. It should adjust. You can also try disconnecting the battery to have it relearn as well. I don't know the quicker route. I don't think you need a tune for the mods you made unless you have previous mods not listed. If you had header, heads now giviving the intake more flow it could pose a problem for the PCM.
    I had the battery disconnected right up until I finished putting all the mods on. There were no other mods that I know of.

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    Update: Just took it out for a run to see what the drivability was. Had to keep my foot feathering the throttle at stops, rpms were up and down while idling and slow speeds to about 30 mph. New development though...When the engine reached op temp (210 F) it started reving to 3000 at which point I would have to engage the clutch, slow down, and pop the clutch to slow the revs or let the tranny slow the car until the revs dropped to a more normal range. Then when I touched the throttle it would increase back to 3000. I couldn't blip the throttle to bring it down it would just take it to 3000 rpms. Also the temp, at one point started to rise (about 230 F) but the glowing exhaust went away. Again, assuming that is because I had airflow around the pipes.

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    Member RealLiveMD's Avatar
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    make sure you connected all the plugs. Mine did this when i forgot to connect the plugs. Also, check the iat and tps sensors to make sure you didn't damage them when you swapped them. Since your using a spacer, make sure that tyou open the little spring thing in the middle of the throttle cable to give you the slack that you need. Attach a voltmeter to your tps and make sure you have a steady rise and fall. I thind that its the blue wire pin... I forgot. You don't need a tune for these basic boltons. However, I heard many tuners say that aftermarket MAF are a problem. I'm all out of ideas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RealLiveMD View Post
    make sure you connected all the plugs. Mine did this when i forgot to connect the plugs. Also, check the iat and tps sensors to make sure you didn't damage them when you swapped them. Since your using a spacer, make sure that tyou open the little spring thing in the middle of the throttle cable to give you the slack that you need. Attach a voltmeter to your tps and make sure you have a steady rise and fall. I thind that its the blue wire pin... I forgot. You don't need a tune for these basic boltons. However, I heard many tuners say that aftermarket MAF are a problem. I'm all out of ideas.
    Wouldn't the computer throw codes if those were bad?

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    Member RealLiveMD's Avatar
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    not always. especially with the tps because it intermittently is ok.

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    I just put on the same bbk ssi intake and throttle body. I was kind of having the same problem. I did a head and cam swap also though. It would stall out on start up then I'd feather it and when it caught it would stay idling at 2000-2200rpm. Like I said I did a little more than just the intake and throttle body though. Yesterday when I got it tuned the TPS was reading 100% at idle so it was running full open. It fouled the plugs bad so I changed the plugs and TPS. Also the butterfly valve in the throttlebody was getting stuck closed bad against the main body. We filled down the buttlerfly valve a tiny bit so we could set the idle down. If I were you I'd check the TPS to see if its functioning properly. One other thing also I'd run a throttle body bypass and a 180 degree thermostat because the heat soak on that intake is pretty bad. Just a few things I've run into I hope It helps.

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    My bad I didn't see your updated post. I'm glad you figured it out.

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