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What Lid/Cold Air Intake?

This is a discussion on What Lid/Cold Air Intake? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I looked for a thread before posting this, so I wasn't making a duplicate, but could not find one. Which ...

  1. #1
    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    What Lid/Cold Air Intake?

    I looked for a thread before posting this, so I wasn't making a duplicate, but could not find one.

    Which would provide the best gains for the money? (Or how much more will I get for spending extra money?)

    If I just changed to an SLP Lid for $90 I hear thats good - 10 rwhp claim.

    Then there is a SLP Cold Air Induction package for $120 - 15 rwhp claim.

    Then SLP Smooth Bellow for $63 - up to 5 rwhp claim.

    Then there is the Volant Cold Air Induction with claims of 12-14 rwhp over stock for $307.

    So theres what I am looking at.

    Is it worth it to spend $270 on the whole SLP Lid/Cold Air Inducton/Smooth Bellow? And is all 3 recommended? Or what?

    Or for the Volant Cold Air Induction, it looks pretty nice, but for $310 can I justify the gains from it?

    This ^ and an LS6 Intake Manifold will probably be my first two mods, then I will get a tune and save for Headers/ORY/Catback.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6Dream View Post
    I looked for a thread before posting this, so I wasn't making a duplicate, but could not find one.

    Which would provide the best gains for the money? (Or how much more will I get for spending extra money?)

    If I just changed to an SLP Lid for $90 I hear thats good - 10 rwhp claim.

    Then there is a SLP Cold Air Induction package for $120 - 15 rwhp claim.

    Then SLP Smooth Bellow for $63 - up to 5 rwhp claim.

    Then there is the Volant Cold Air Induction with claims of 12-14 rwhp over stock for $307.

    So theres what I am looking at.

    Is it worth it to spend $270 on the whole SLP Lid/Cold Air Inducton/Smooth Bellow? And is all 3 recommended? Or what?

    Or for the Volant Cold Air Induction, it looks pretty nice, but for $310 can I justify the gains from it?

    This ^ and an LS6 Intake Manifold will probably be my first two mods, then I will get a tune and save for Headers/ORY/Catback.
    Ask Frost about the need for a tune if you do the LS6 Intake.

    As far as the others you really can not go wrong as long as you get rid of the stock air lid. I have very negative opinion on the CAI from SLP. It can lead to Hydrolock if caught out in a rain storm. I know, I know..."I'll never drive in the rain!!" It can happen.

    I like the look of the Volant system but I don't have a Ram Air Hood yet. so I'm using SLP for now. No Smooth Bellow. As far as gains are I know I had a quicker response when I did it and a nicer sound. But I also did the free air mod to help give it more air too.

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    Member jrzdude's Avatar
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    My Volant looks and performs great. Especially after debaffling the hood, you can see each cone through each hood scoop =)

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Is the free air mod where you cut a hold in the bottom of the air box? (what I just read, I haven't ever read anything about it but may look into it).

    Are the gain claims that I listed up above accurate to base it off of?

    Because $307 for volant for 12-14 rwhp vs. $90 for SLP lid for 10 rwhp vs. $150 for SLP smooth bellows and SLP lid 15 rwhp, almost is enough to say volant isn't worth it if I am trying to stay money conscious at the moment.

    Agree? Disagree? Ideas?


    EDIT: Volant + smooth bellows for ~$370 = 17-19 rwhp gain? again thats a claim. But my question on this is, with the volant system, if I swap in a smooth bellows, will I still see gain from it? Basically saying, the Volant system doesn't include smooth bellows already, right?
    Last edited by WS6Dream; 03-29-2011 at 07:12 PM.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by WS6Dream View Post
    Is the free air mod where you cut a hold in the bottom of the air box? (what I just read, I haven't ever read anything about it but may look into it).

    Are the gain claims that I listed up above accurate to base it off of?

    Because $307 for volant for 12-14 rwhp vs. $90 for SLP lid for 10 rwhp vs. $150 for SLP smooth bellows and SLP lid 15 rwhp, almost is enough to say volant isn't worth it if I am trying to stay money conscious at the moment.

    Agree? Disagree? Ideas?


    EDIT: Volant + smooth bellows for ~$370 = 17-19 rwhp gain? again thats a claim. But my question on this is, with the volant system, if I swap in a smooth bellows, will I still see gain from it? Basically saying, the Volant system doesn't include smooth bellows already, right?
    A lid is worth about 5hp. The bellows are good for nothing. I dont like the volant but others do. I bought my slp lid for $89. Cant really go wrong as long as you dont believe ANY of thier hp claims.

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike0202 View Post
    A lid is worth about 5hp. The bellows are good for nothing. I dont like the volant but others do. I bought my slp lid for $89. Cant really go wrong as long as you dont believe ANY of thier hp claims.
    That's what I figured. That's the reason why I put them down as claims. I will probably go with an SLP lid, but more information on the Volant would be good if anyone has some. Or other input for the SLP stuff.

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    Member jrzdude's Avatar
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    I personally like my setup. With the ram air hood, I think the 2 cone setup w/ hood baffles removed is as "ram air" as it gets. For regular T/A's, definitely just a lid.

    IMO, its go big, or go home. The Volant definitely works great, Its the first thing you notice when u pop the hood and looks amazing. Your car though. You will feel a difference by getting anything besides stock

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    Member blackbird0230's Avatar
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    nah, just find you a used slp lid, run the 10 dollar fernco bellows from home depot and call it a day.

    My used SLP lid- $50
    Fernco bellow- $10
    TOTAL: $60 bucks.
    Gained a couple ponies plus you got money to run a U/D pulley and probably squeeze in a T-stat.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6Dream View Post
    Is the free air mod where you cut a hold in the bottom of the air box? (what I just read, I haven't ever read anything about it but may look into it).

    Are the gain claims that I listed up above accurate to base it off of?

    Because $307 for volant for 12-14 rwhp vs. $90 for SLP lid for 10 rwhp vs. $150 for SLP smooth bellows and SLP lid 15 rwhp, almost is enough to say volant isn't worth it if I am trying to stay money conscious at the moment.

    Agree? Disagree? Ideas?


    EDIT: Volant + smooth bellows for ~$370 = 17-19 rwhp gain? again thats a claim. But my question on this is, with the volant system, if I swap in a smooth bellows, will I still see gain from it? Basically saying, the Volant system doesn't include smooth bellows already, right?


    Op, don't get hook up on the HP gains. At best you may feel it but in reality you won't. Not saying don't get a lid or that it doesn't increase the HP, just saying 5-10 hp in the long run is nothing that you can really say, yep that was it. It's solely for advertisement to get you to buy it. Also if you are a hardcore track runner then that 5 HP gain might shave off .01 time of your run. I'm not sure how they can prove it without doing a lot of dyno testing and using a single car while add/removing that specific part.


    Now this is what you are probably wanting to know in the long run - a new air lid, P&P TB, LS6 Intake, LT Headers, ORY (with/without CATS), an aftermarket muffler or CAT back system, and a good tune will give you the best increase of HP, sound and a noticeable change in feel and response.

    Cost for all above (My setup) what I paid:
    SLP Air Lid - $90
    P&P TB - S2 Performance $150 (I paid $100 because I got it with my intake from craiglist seller)
    LS6 Intake - $300 (Bought from Craiglist Seller, never used)
    LT Headers/ORY Combo - $440 Pacesetter Race Style (No EGR) Ceramic Coated with TS&P ORY. (Got it as a combo from TS&P)
    Magnaflow Muffler - $ 75
    Tune - Frost $150

    Now I didn't do this in one weekend, in fact it took me over a yr total because I haven't found a tree that $$ grows on yet or that goose that lays golden eggs. Still looking, let me know if you find them.


    Are you trying to figure out what kind of build you want to do? <<<Is this your first?

  10. #10
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrzdude View Post
    I personally like my setup. With the ram air hood, I think the 2 cone setup w/ hood baffles removed is as "ram air" as it gets. For regular T/A's, definitely just a lid.

    IMO, its go big, or go home. The Volant definitely works great, Its the first thing you notice when u pop the hood and looks amazing. Your car though. You will feel a difference by getting anything besides stock
    Agree with above, I like this setup but I'll have to wait till I get a new hood. I have other work planned before that comes.

  11. #11
    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Op, don't get hook up on the HP gains. At best you may feel it but in reality you won't. Not saying don't get a lid or that it doesn't increase the HP, just saying 5-10 hp in the long run is nothing that you can really say, yep that was it. It's solely for advertisement to get you to buy it. Also if you are a hardcore track runner then that 5 HP gain might shave off .01 time of your run. I'm not sure how they can prove it without doing a lot of dyno testing and using a single car while add/removing that specific part.


    Now this is what you are probably wanting to know in the long run - a new air lid, P&P TB, LS6 Intake, LT Headers, ORY (with/without CATS), an aftermarket muffler or CAT back system, and a good tune will give you the best increase of HP, sound and a noticeable change in feel and response.

    Cost for all above (My setup) what I paid:
    SLP Air Lid - $90
    P&P TB - S2 Performance $150 (I paid $100 because I got it with my intake from craiglist seller)
    LS6 Intake - $300 (Bought from Craiglist Seller, never used)
    LT Headers/ORY Combo - $440 Pacesetter Race Style (No EGR) Ceramic Coated with TS&P ORY. (Got it as a combo from TS&P)
    Magnaflow Muffler - $ 75
    Tune - Frost $150

    Now I didn't do this in one weekend, in fact it took me over a yr total because I haven't found a tree that $$ grows on yet or that goose that lays golden eggs. Still looking, let me know if you find them.


    Are you trying to figure out what kind of build you want to do? <<<Is this your first?
    This is my first build. I am claiming it as my first REAL car... had a '98 v6 mustang in high school for 2 years (age 16-18)..., then got this the end of December.

    But basically everything that you listed are the mods I plan on doing first.

    For the catback, did you just use stock exhaust pipes and just change to a different muffler? (magnaflow)

    Do you know what your rwhp is with that set-up? Just curious. I am not solely looking for rwhp, but I am wanting to reach the 400rwhp N/A mark (eventually) and stop there.

    Is the mail order frost tune everything people say it is? Is it truly squeezing every bit of hp that your car can produce or would I be better finding a tuner that will dynotune it?

    Thanks SMWS6TA

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by WS6Dream View Post
    For the catback, did you just use stock exhaust pipes and just change to a different muffler? (magnaflow)

    Do you know what your rwhp is with that set-up? Just curious. I am not solely looking for rwhp, but I am wanting to reach the 400rwhp N/A mark (eventually) and stop there.

    Is the mail order frost tune everything people say it is? Is it truly squeezing every bit of hp that your car can produce or would I be better finding a tuner that will dynotune it?

    Thanks SMWS6TA
    Its best to buy a full cat back since they are 3" vs the stock 2.75.

    You will need full bolt ons and a mild cam to reach 400rwh.

    Dyno tune > Mail order

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike0202 View Post
    Its best to buy a full cat back since they are 3" vs the stock 2.75.

    You will need full bolt ons and a mild cam to reach 400rwh.

    Dyno tune > Mail order
    Ya I figured I would need a mild street cam, but I am just going to start with bolt ons and most likely some suspension upgrades and strengthening the car up.

    Do you by chance know a dyno tuner in Oklahoma/Oklahoma City/Edmond? (or anyone reading this?)

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    OP, you have several questions so I'll try to break 'em down....

    1st: Took from other thread you had but still relevant here
    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    I would begin with not manually shifting your a4, but let it shift itself. As for a tune, if you do plan on doing mods this summer, I would wait - no sense in paying for it twice in that short amount of time. You could also begin with simple maintenance if it hasn't been done yet - check/change fuel filter, clean the maf, check/change spark plugs and wires, ect. I am guessing that you don't have any codes coming up? Your 60' time will effect your time quite a bit, so I recommend more practice to drop it down. If you do plan on adding some power, I'd also look into sfc's and maybe a stall. Also, the rear differentials don't take to added power very well, so that should be a concern as well. I have learned it's better to build a solid car first, then add the power. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches.

    Knight is correct in all above. Do the basic maintenance first. You need a solid foundation to build upon.


    There are many ways to do a build. But they always require the same things.

    1a) Ask your self what you want to do. DD, show, street, drag only or any combo? Each requires different approaches and amounts of money.
    1b) Ask your self how much money and time you're willing to give to accomplish your goal. Be realistic. Most builds take an average person 3-5 yrs. They only go faster when you have deep bank account to back up the time table.
    2) Now that you know think you have an idea on what you want. Write it down. Research, research some more, ask a shit load of questions and research some more. Go back to your notes and update. I have a spreed sheet that has every thing I've done or plan on doing with a link to the vendor and est cost. It may seem extreme but it works for me.
    3) Planning. Take the build in steps (Suspension, Wheels/Tires, Engine, Interior, Exterior, etc...) other wise break it down and be flexible. And remember "a plan only survives the first 5 minutes of contact" meaning crap is going to break and go wrong. Remember the end goal and
    4)Buy parts. Some things you can throw on immediately some you should do together. Others things like the LS6 Intake and VCT you can do them separately but you end up doing the same work twice. Another example would be K-member. Say you get it but not the A-arms. Smart money would be to wait and do it all at once while you have the front blown apart. The goal is to work smarter not harder but budget always seems to make the rules.


    Others will add their opinions and may correct or contradict what I'm saying and that's ok because they may also have more experience in building these cars then me. I'm just offering my opinion on what I've done.


    I have a M6 non WS6. I wanted one, but settle for this because the only thing that would have stayed stock would have been the hood. I too have a goal north of 400 N/A. I/O to get there I plan on a LS6 with C&C Heads and MS4 Cam from TS&P. Only way besides spray to get there. Another note in your research/planning - anything over say 425 RWHP plan on getting a new rear end. The POS rear we currently have has been know to break under simple bolt ons. It's not a matter of if but when.

    Some things that you will need to plan for A4: Stall Converter, I've read Moser 12 bolt are good for A4, while the 9" is good for M6 cars. Gears too, A4 has different gears then a M6. Say you go H2H with a stock M6, he'll get you because of better gear ratio (unless he is a shitty driver, just saying if both are equal skill). However if you change your gear ratio and get a good tune, A4 have better 60' times then M6's.

    Things that F-bodies need - SFC's and passenger window fix are a must. Our cars flex like crazy and can warp the back QP just a foot behind the doors. The other fixes the faulty wiring that GM did.

    You asked about Frost tunes - Yes, I have it and I can say compared to my buddies stock T/A it's a much noticeable difference. We do also have another sponsor that does tuning too. Tampa Tuning. I know he's new.

    My signature has everything that I've done since I got my car 2 yrs ago. I still have far to go. I'm planning on full UMI suspension, 9" from Mid West Chassis, LS6, MS4 cam and LS6 C&C heads.

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    On a lid it says slp they come like that stock or is it aftermarket

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    Srry i asked a question but seems like everyone here knows what they r talking about

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace_746 View Post
    On a lid it says slp they come like that stock or is it aftermarket
    Quote Originally Posted by Ace_746 View Post
    Srry i asked a question but seems like everyone here knows what they r talking about
    Is the above post the question? Then it is aftermarket. Only SLP product that came stock was the "Black Wing" They are rare and expensive.

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    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    If you were to do a search of this forum alone, youll find many of threads and the one where speed inc dynoed my car before and after volant.
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhraformula View Post
    If you were to do a search of this forum alone, youll find many of threads and the one where speed inc dynoed my car before and after volant.
    Found it, thanks. +5 rwhp over SLP lid. Good to know.

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    can you post the link? i can't find it was it this one? cold air intake
    Last edited by ditzola; 04-26-2011 at 01:50 PM.

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