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welded exhaust help

This is a discussion on welded exhaust help within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; so i had to take the heads off on the firehawk, but to do so of your gotta drop the ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member vortex1369's Avatar
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    welded exhaust help

    so i had to take the heads off on the firehawk, but to do so of your gotta drop the headers. Well my headers where welded to the cats, those welded to the y pipe, and so forth, all the way to the exhaust tips. PAIN IN THE ASS! to drop the headers enough to get the heads off, i had to make a cut. I chose to cut the y pipe section (after the cats) but now i haven't a clue how to put the exhaust set up back together now that its
    cut... any suggestion other than re-welding? clamps wont work unless i just get a new y pipe

  2. #2
    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    If clamps won't work, I'd just drive it to the closest exhaust shop and have them weld it back up. Another thought would be to have the exhaust shop cut out the section where you made the cut, put a new section of pipe in and then clamp it on one end and weld the other end, unless clamps are completely out of the question. That would save you the hassle of having to cut the weld every time you have to drop that portion of the exhaust.
    Last edited by FinZ28; 04-26-2012 at 03:49 AM.
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    Junior Member tdevil55's Avatar
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    Three inch band clamps will work if the cut is a strait clean cut. You can find them at most parts stores like napa.
    02 Z28/LS1 NBM - TIN CAN RACING
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    Member Whitefish's Avatar
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    Maybe put a cut out in there now...I mean the hard part (cutting the spot for it) is already done.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Just weld it back the way it was.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    You will probably have to weld it back up. The band clamp idea may work for a while, but they are really designed for slip fit joints.

    In the end, the proper way to fix it would be to rip all that stuff off and start fresh and bolt everything in as it should be. Because sooner or later, you'll be dropping the exhaust for something else (clutch install, or transmission work, fuel pump, etc...) and you'll be cutting it again, and again, and again....

    Obviously somebody didn't think that exhaust install through very well.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Another trick that I use on the rear muffler assembly (rather than a slip fit joint) I use a 3 bolt header flange with a gasket. So when it comes time to drop the muffler for a fuel pump, I remove 3 bolts and the muffler and tailpipe assembly drops down as one whole unit in about 5 minutes.

    It's not hard to fab on, and you can buy a set of them for about $5. Since you cut the pipe it's a piece of cake. Slide your 3 bolt header rings on each side of the cut. Bolt them together and center the flanges directly over the cut. Weld around the outside perimeter of the flanges on each side. Remove your bolts, slide your gasket in, and clamp it all down.

    Now you have a removable flange with a gasket that will drop straight down, rather than needing wiggle room to slide a slip joint apart....

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FinZ28 View Post
    If clamps won't work, I'd just drive it to the closest exhaust shop and have them weld it back up. Another thought would be to have the exhaust shop cut out the section where you made the cut, put a new section of pipe in and then clamp it on one end and weld the other end, unless clamps are completely out of the question. That would save you the hassle of having to cut the weld every time you have to drop that portion of the exhaust.
    What he said....

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