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Want to stay as stock as possible, but want more omph...

This is a discussion on Want to stay as stock as possible, but want more omph... within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; What can all you guys point me towards that will be my best shot at keeping my WS6 as stock ...

  1. #1
    Old man with an F-Body!!! Kajun Taz's Avatar
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    '02 WS6/K&N airfilter.

    Want to stay as stock as possible, but want more omph...

    What can all you guys point me towards that will be my best shot at keeping my WS6 as stock as possible, but give me more bang for the buck? I'm needing to stay as inexpensive as possible here(fixed disability income sucks) but still want to "Git 'Er Done". I hear the shock-tower bars, air-lids, etc. are doing well, as far as being inexpensive mods. So far, all I've done is changed over to a K&N air filter and used my HypertechIII programmer to tighten up the shift firmness to 75%. Be nice to the poor old newbie,ok?.... POOR and OLD being the important words here, too.... LOL
    PROUD father of a United States Marine.

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Bolt-ons are your best bet, because they can be removed and replaced with factory parts if needed. A nitrous kit can also be completely removed and put back to stock and can give the biggest hp gain. And you'll get the most for your money.
    Last edited by BlackLT1Z28; 01-29-2007 at 10:36 AM.

  3. #3
    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Long tube headers, exhaust, any aftermarket lid, gears, just to start

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    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '12 Silver SS 1SS
    '00 Black SS #8617

    do a cat-back and get NOS. that way everything else is left 'stock' as you so desire...

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kajun Taz View Post
    What can all you guys point me towards that will be my best shot at keeping my WS6 as stock as possible, but give me more bang for the buck? I'm needing to stay as inexpensive as possible here(fixed disability income sucks) but still want to "Git 'Er Done". I hear the shock-tower bars, air-lids, etc. are doing well, as far as being inexpensive mods. So far, all I've done is changed over to a K&N air filter and used my HypertechIII programmer to tighten up the shift firmness to 75%. Be nice to the poor old newbie,ok?.... POOR and OLD being the important words here, too.... LOL
    I too am trying to mod my car with fixed disability! It's not easy!

  6. #6
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    black
    2000 nhra edition formula

    stall converter, its the best possible upgrade for a automatic LS1.
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

  7. #7
    Old man with an F-Body!!! Kajun Taz's Avatar
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    AMEN, Brother.. You would think that after working and paying huge taxes, FICA, SSI, etc. for SSSOOO many years.... if we'd get disabled, or retire with a DECENT income every month... but... NNNOOOOO!!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    2001 Trans Am (sold)

    Lid, Loudmouth exhaust, stall, 3:73 gears.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    A stall would be my first mod but keep in mind that a few mods will probably require a tune and that's one of them. The money starts adding up fast. Personally for your specific situation a catback wouldn't be a bad way to go. Improve the sound and give you a tad more oomph at the same time. I would also recommend doing all the free mods.

  10. #10
    Old man with an F-Body!!! Kajun Taz's Avatar
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    Red/Neutral(tan)
    '02 WS6/K&N airfilter.

    I've been reading quite a few posts that make mention of these "FREE MODS"... Gunna have to look into this a lot deeper, once I figure out exactly what they are... I'm guessing they are like polishing out the TB, Throttle stop mod, bellows, etc. ??

  11. #11
    Senior Member Wheeler99WS6's Avatar
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    black, 05 Roush
    black, 99 T/A WS.6

    www.installuniversity.com you can find some of the free mods there. I would go with lid & cat-back.
    1999 T/A WS6 Black -------SOLD
    05 mustang Roush sport;
    DOB manifold, m122 SC, 47lb injectors, gt500 TB, roush TVS CAI, Detroit rocker SC grind camshafts, Mac LTs, off road x, roush off road mufflers, roush short throw shifter, kenne bell BAP, Brenspeed 93 octane tune. 479rwhp 436ftlbs SAE.

  12. #12
    Member danziger's Avatar
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    Le Mans Blue
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    Take out the Hypertech and K&N and sell them both. Take the money from the sale and apply to:
    a) a cheap dry nitrous kit- you can run a 100shot all day on a stock LS1 with no issues...

    or

    b) 3200ish stall/shift kit/tranny cooler- will completely change the personality of your car

    or

    c) bolt-ons- lid, headers/Y-pipe and a cut-out can be done for around $600 if you shop around...worth around 35rwhp

  13. #13
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danziger View Post
    Take out the Hypertech and K&N and sell them both. Take the money from the sale and apply to:
    a) a cheap dry nitrous kit- you can run a 100shot all day on a stock LS1 with no issues...
    He's looking for mods that will make the car quicker, while staying as STOCK as possible. Nitrous isn't something to be taken lightly, you can do a number on your motor if you don't know what you're doing, or if something goes wrong. My advice would be to steer clear is laughing gas in anything but a car thats properly set up (not some cheap kit) and properly tuned down to a tee.

    And whats wrong with the K&N?? The Hypertech is good for adjusting for gear/wheel size changes, cooling fan temps, and trans shifting firmness at the very least. What would you suggest over the K&N, a paper filter?? He just needs a lid to make it complete.

    b) 3200ish stall/shift kit/tranny cooler- will completely change the personality of your car
    Once again, not cheap, and will negatively affect the driveability of the car. Plus its not easily reverseable, and you have to drop the trans and get a tune to get it to function optimally. The driving characteristis of the car will change completely, fuel economy will dip significantly, and the car will jerk hard with each shift. This guy isn't trying to build a race car, just a mildly modded over stock.

    The Hypertech is perfect for firming up the shifts to the desired level, and a trans cooler is never a bad idea for a 4L60E.


    c) bolt-ons- lid, headers/Y-pipe and a cut-out can be done for around $600 if you shop around...worth around 35rwhp
    Headers alone are worth around 20WHP without a tune, and up to almost 40WHP with a tune. Obviously Lid is always good. Might want to look into true duals, it will give you a great sound, nice power gains, and better fuel economy. The cutout is just a poor substitute for a full exhaust, unless you're into making a ton of noise.

    Heres a good list for you to start with:

    Air Lid
    TB Bypass Mod (free)
    Long Tube Headers (Pacesetters are good)
    Full True Dual Exhaust
    Hypertech (Cooling fans, shift firmnes)


    Do those things first, they wil give you nice performance, awesome sound, and better fuel economy. If you still want more after that, then you can go with things like gears, stall, cam, ect

  14. #14
    Old man with an F-Body!!! Kajun Taz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    He's looking for mods that will make the car quicker, while staying as STOCK as possible. Nitrous isn't something to be taken lightly, you can do a number on your motor if you don't know what you're doing, or if something goes wrong. My advice would be to steer clear is laughing gas in anything but a car thats properly set up (not some cheap kit) and properly tuned down to a tee.


    Heres a good list for you to start with:

    Air Lid
    TB Bypass Mod (free)
    Long Tube Headers (Pacesetters are good)
    Full True Dual Exhaust
    Hypertech (Cooling fans, shift firmnes)


    Do those things first, they wil give you nice performance, awesome sound, and better fuel economy. If you still want more after that, then you can go with things like gears, stall, cam, ect
    I'll start with these and a few other "free" mods I have been reading about(Tb port/polish, MAF port/de-screen/polish, straight baffleless intake hose, etc.). These should be relatively simple mods for me to do, as I was a diesel mechanic before I got disabled 7 years ago. Once I get those setup and running correctly, we'll see what the wallet and the wife say about further mods. Thanks for all the help and info. Like I said at first... first time owner of an LS1 and only my second Trans-Am(first was a used1978 Formula that I owned for several months then traded it in on a 4X4 truck)... I know, I know..... I was young, dumb, and full of... well, you get the picture.....
    Last edited by Kajun Taz; 02-01-2007 at 02:59 PM.

  15. #15
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I would do some reading on descreening the MAF first. I wouldn't recommend it.

  16. #16
    Old man with an F-Body!!! Kajun Taz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I would do some reading on descreening the MAF first. I wouldn't recommend it.
    I sure will, cause if I mess it up... I'm screwed....... LOL

  17. #17
    Senior Member Wheeler99WS6's Avatar
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    black, 05 Roush
    black, 99 T/A WS.6

    stock maf is good upto 450rwhp, leave it alone. The hypertech is too expensive for how little it can benefit you. I wouldnt recommend it either. K&N is fine but not totally necessary due to price once again. If you already have the hpp3 and K&N then its fine, no need to throw them out. If I was trying to stay mainly stock this is what I would do:

    Lid
    ported TB (free)
    TB bump stop mod (free)
    cat-back

    These little things will give you a little umph and shouldnt be too pricey and require no tuning and you will retain the status of nearly stock. Like said before a stall is the best mod for A4 cars but can be pricey, paying for stall, installation and tuning. I was trying to tell ya the inexpensive things I thought the car would benefit from.

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