Typhoon manifold

**Supersport0126** · 01-09-2012, 02:46 PM

What do you guys think about the typhhon manifold with an 85 mm tb for my 98 ss? Is it a good way to go because I just bought them and sent my comp. To frost. Will I be lookin at some nice gains. Thanks!

**Mr. Luos** · 01-09-2012, 03:19 PM

In my opinion, no better than an LS6 intake.
Not sure fitment issues have been fixed, but they used to fit like poop.

**Supersport0126** · 01-09-2012, 06:25 PM

Its been proven it produced more horsepower than the ls6 at higher rpm and it looks awesome! Just a little heavier.

**Mr. Luos** · 01-09-2012, 06:51 PM

What did they prove? 1-2 HP?
Not worth the price tag in any way.

But of course, it is your money.

**Knight** · 01-09-2012, 06:55 PM

Plus, it's an aluminum intake. Heat soak is terrible. If they were worth anything, they'd be much higher recommended. Look at FAST intakes. There's a reason people use them.

I hope you don't run into any of the many issues I've heard about them - ie. fittment, injector sealing, ect.

**Supersport0126** · 01-09-2012, 07:08 PM

It was shown it produced 17 more hp at like 5400 or so. I hope it works out the guy at pro products says the fitment issues were corrected and they use the rubber gaskets now!

**35th-ANV-SS** · 01-09-2012, 07:25 PM

From a member who has the AL intake...

"At WOT you have no "time over target" to heat the air
in. Even if the manifold is "heat soaked". If you want to
cut down on that, run your fans full time like I do.

The fin surface area of your radiator is about 5000 square
inches. The surface area of the manifold runner is about
25 square inches more or less. I figured up that at 500CFM
your air spends under 5 milliseconds in the runner.

I spent some time tonight pulling heat transfer calcs
off the Interwebs, and it looks like an aluminum runner
of our geometry and 100C (212F, hotter than water
jacket if you're smart) will push 68 watts (yeah) of
heat and raise the air temp 1.9 degrees (yeah) along
its length.

Feel free to check my work.

Pro Products had lousy gaskets originally, they gave me
the better ones free for the asking when I bought the
85mm new, and found it had the old style. I had no leak
or fit-up problems.

I port-matched my LS6 heads and the Typhoon ports
to the gaskets they sent me. I didn't dig any deeper
on the intake. But it has a removable bottom plate if
you felt the need.

I pulled out the laser temperature meter and took some
readings. After a 5 mile drive and 5 minute idling in the
parking lot with the hood closed, the Pro Products intake
read 112F on the runner 1/2" from the heads, heads read
168F, front fender 85F.

On the way back out of Wal-Mart, heads and intake both
135F. I was in there a while.

So there's your heat soak bogeyman. If you're set up like
me there's nothing much going on while running. If my
calcs based on 212F are any kind of right, the aluminum
doesn't do any significant heating at all on my car (112F)."

**Supersport0126** · 01-09-2012, 08:15 PM

Yhanks alot fot the info man. Appreciate it

**35th-ANV-SS** · 01-09-2012, 08:21 PM

Take it for what it's worth. Some people complain about it while others rave about it. All-in-all, from what I've read, it's about on par with the LS6, but a lot of people like the look of it.

Read a lot about heat soak as well, but the post above seemed pretty convincing

**0rion** · 01-09-2012, 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

From a member who has the AL intake...

"At WOT you have no "time over target" to heat the air
in. Even if the manifold is "heat soaked". If you want to
cut down on that, run your fans full time like I do.

The fin surface area of your radiator is about 5000 square
inches. The surface area of the manifold runner is about
25 square inches more or less. I figured up that at 500CFM
your air spends under 5 milliseconds in the runner.

I spent some time tonight pulling heat transfer calcs
off the Interwebs, and it looks like an aluminum runner
of our geometry and 100C (212F, hotter than water
jacket if you're smart) will push 68 watts (yeah) of
heat and raise the air temp 1.9 degrees (yeah) along
its length.

Feel free to check my work.

Pro Products had lousy gaskets originally, they gave me
the better ones free for the asking when I bought the
85mm new, and found it had the old style. I had no leak
or fit-up problems.

I port-matched my LS6 heads and the Typhoon ports
to the gaskets they sent me. I didn't dig any deeper
on the intake. But it has a removable bottom plate if
you felt the need.

I pulled out the laser temperature meter and took some
readings. After a 5 mile drive and 5 minute idling in the
parking lot with the hood closed, the Pro Products intake
read 112F on the runner 1/2" from the heads, heads read
168F, front fender 85F.

On the way back out of Wal-Mart, heads and intake both
135F. I was in there a while.

So there's your heat soak bogeyman. If you're set up like
me there's nothing much going on while running. If my
calcs based on 212F are any kind of right, the aluminum
doesn't do any significant heating at all on my car (112F)."

yeah.....just run your fans all the time......that's good for them

**0rion** · 01-09-2012, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by Supersport0126

It was shown it produced 17 more hp at like 5400 or so. I hope it works out the guy at pro products says the fitment issues were corrected and they use the rubber gaskets now!

got an article? The weight and heat soak factor makes that 17 hp a wash.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 01-09-2012, 08:51 PM

Good point

**Potz_Speed** · 01-11-2012, 10:41 AM

i have ran weiand aluminum intakes on 3 different LS vehicles, and here in florida the heat soak is real as they all ran like crap the hotter the motor got. thats just MY opinion and MY experience tho. also, the port alignment and sealing was also an issue on heads that were decked/milled. there again, thats my own personal experience. your results and opinions may be different.