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Tips for a beginner level install

This is a discussion on Tips for a beginner level install within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So, I will be installing my new throttle body this week. I've looked at the stock set up it looks ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Tips for a beginner level install

    So, I will be installing my new throttle body this week. I've looked at the stock set up it looks pretty simple: 3 bolts and a couple of wires that need to be unplugged/plugged in.

    Is there anything I'm missing or need to know before I jump in? I'm planning on just popping the hood and swapping out the part... 5 minutes of work.

    Right?

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    Get a can of CRC MAF cleaner and give that a go while you have everything apart.

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    So, I will be installing my new throttle body this week. I've looked at the stock set up it looks pretty simple: 3 bolts and a couple of wires that need to be unplugged/plugged in.

    Is there anything I'm missing or need to know before I jump in? I'm planning on just popping the hood and swapping out the part... 5 minutes of work.

    Right?
    It is really easy,don't forget to do the TB bypass while your in there and the EGR donkey dong and the free ram air.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    A lot of those free mods seem tempting, but I'm kinda hesitant to do things that can cause problems in certain climates...

    Although, the EGR thingy in the intake looks like a worthwhile piece of work. Will it ruin my smog cert, though?

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    Member jrzdude's Avatar
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    I recommend laying some towels under the TB before you take the coolant lines off, so none of it spills on your belts. And just take your time.

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    A lot of those free mods seem tempting, but I'm kinda hesitant to do things that can cause problems in certain climates...

    Although, the EGR thingy in the intake looks like a worthwhile piece of work. Will it ruin my smog cert, though?
    The EGR still works,you just removed an obstruction in the intake.

    The Free Ram Air Mod,your filter will get a bit dirty quicker.

    If your worried about ingesting water into the engine(very rare maybe driving in a monsoon) make a metal plate that you can slide in for rainy days.

    I know people that use cardboard and take it out at the track.

    Throttle Body Bypass,there is no way your TB is going to freeze period.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Allow for alteast 3x more time than you think it's going to take, lol. Never rush yourself.

    I'd get set-up before you loosen 1 bolt or screw, getting out all possible tools, cleaner, rags, radio etc.

    Then take it all apart and stuff a very clean, lint free rag into the intake. Hell, even shut the hood if it's going to be a while. Then go ahead and clean all your parts you have removed.

    I'd would do the TB bypass, really cheap and really easy while you have all of this apart.

    Put everything back together, then do a tool count/check and fire it up!

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Allow for alteast 3x more time than you think it's going to take, lol. Never rush yourself.

    I'd get set-up before you loosen 1 bolt or screw, getting out all possible tools, cleaner, rags, radio etc.

    Then take it all apart and stuff a very clean, lint free rag into the intake. Hell, even shut the hood if it's going to be a while. Then go ahead and clean all your parts you have removed.

    I'd would do the TB bypass, really cheap and really easy while you have all of this apart.

    Put everything back together, then do a tool count/check and fire it up!
    TB is in. The install was easy, but since I'm a beginner, it did take longer than what it originally looked like. The first problem I ran into was getting some of the clamped hoses to come off: they've been clamped on there for 14 years now... so.... anyway, the only real issue I had was disconnecting the cruise control. All the diagrams and pics I saw did not show a car with cruise control, so I couldn't figure out how to get that part off right away (lo and behold, it just snaps on/off ).

    The engine definitely feels a lot better. Gears engage smoother at low rpm and the motor feels more like an extension of my own foot. An absolutely worthwhile mod.

    One thing I noticed this morning is that my idle speed has gone up. As I was driving into work, I clutched-in and the rpms came to rest at 1200 (it was actually fluctuating between about 1150 and 1200). Not sure what that means.... time for a tune?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    There is a screw that is on (as you look at it) left side of the TB. You can adjust it to lower the idle speed.


    I've got a P&P TB too and have tried to lower it and still can't get it below 1000 rpm.

    I'm going to have to kick out the $50 and get Frost to re-tune my PCM for the LS6 Intake and P&P TB. It's all I got left to try. I have no vacuum leaks

    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 05-13-2011 at 07:39 AM.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Just looked at that... it looks like in order to get at that screw, I'll have to take the TB off. Is there a way to do it without removing the TB?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Only if you got one of those special tools that holds the star bit like a ratchet.

    You may be able to use a 1/4" drive it a 1/4" bit. It only takes 5 mins to get the TB off to get at it. I now PITA, I couldn't used the 1/4" drive because Gremlins have walked with my 1/4" socket.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Only if you got one of those special tools that holds the star bit like a ratchet.

    You may be able to use a 1/4" drive it a 1/4" bit. It only takes 5 mins to get the TB off to get at it. I now PITA, I couldn't used the 1/4" drive because Gremlins have walked with my 1/4" socket.

    When you find them sumbish gremlins, ask them what they did with my 1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchets. I lost both of them a few months ago and still haven't found them.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    When you find them sumbish gremlins, ask them what they did with my 1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchets. I lost both of them a few months ago and still haven't found them.
    When I find 'em there ain't going to be any questions asked just a straight up






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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Only if you got one of those special tools that holds the star bit like a ratchet.

    You may be able to use a 1/4" drive it a 1/4" bit. It only takes 5 mins to get the TB off to get at it. I now PITA, I couldn't used the 1/4" drive because Gremlins have walked with my 1/4" socket.
    Ah, yeah... see? That's one of those "simple" ideas that for some reason is not immediately obvious to me...

    I used an allen key. I found one that fit and was able to make little adjustments, but it wound up being to difficult to keep a grip on because it was so small... just wound up taking it apart and using my screwdri... I mean, my "bitdriver."

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    Junior Member Potz_Speed's Avatar
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    just a couple fyi's...

    you can also always flip the idle screw upside down for easier access in the future. also double check that the throttle cable-cam is resting on the screw and that the t/b is not hanging open for an attachment reason.

    with the install of the modified t/b, you really should not need a tune or really even adjust the screw. if the idle hangs or seems to search, make double sure the red rubber o-ring was re-installed on the iac sensor and that there was no damage to the o-ring during the process.

    if the o-ring and sensor are good to go, then a few start-stops of the motor and the tps should automatically go into re-learn and and self adjust for the new t/b. if in doubt or u would prefer to by-pass the few "start-stops", you can always do a manual re-learn of the tps.

    if still have problems and everything already listed checks out, just try to recheck the obvious things again. also take a look at the idle air hole on the blade to make sure its the same size as it was originally and that you have not picked-up a t/b with an altered blade. it seems that 99.9% of our idle after install problems are o-ring or install related.

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    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    One other piece of advice for someone nervous about taking their car apart; Take digital pictures, even if it’s just for your piece of mind, take a picture of every bolt as you remove it if necessary, where plugs go and how the wires were routed. It can be a little bit confidence as you reassemble or might just save you when you aren’t sure how something went. It also gives you a valuable tool if you have a question you can post it up here with a picture and “it’s worth a thousand words”. Once your done either delete them, burn them to a CD for your own records or whatever, doesn’t cost you anything but the battery charge on a digital camera and some time.

    My 2 cents

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    ^^ Damn good advice. I do this all the time. I also baggie and label the bolts and small pieces.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    ^^ Damn good advice. I do this all the time. I also baggie and label the bolts and small pieces.
    I got a bunch of the magnetic bowls, they come in handy as well.

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Potz_Speed View Post
    just a couple fyi's...

    you can also always flip the idle screw upside down for easier access in the future. also double check that the throttle cable-cam is resting on the screw and that the t/b is not hanging open for an attachment reason.

    with the install of the modified t/b, you really should not need a tune or really even adjust the screw. if the idle hangs or seems to search, make double sure the red rubber o-ring was re-installed on the iac sensor and that there was no damage to the o-ring during the process.

    if the o-ring and sensor are good to go, then a few start-stops of the motor and the tps should automatically go into re-learn and and self adjust for the new t/b. if in doubt or u would prefer to by-pass the few "start-stops", you can always do a manual re-learn of the tps.

    if still have problems and everything already listed checks out, just try to recheck the obvious things again. also take a look at the idle air hole on the blade to make sure its the same size as it was originally and that you have not picked-up a t/b with an altered blade. it seems that 99.9% of our idle after install problems are o-ring or install related.

    No problems with mine,you do good work.

    Thanks again.

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