Switch SLP MAF back to OEM MAF?

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-19-2010, 11:01 AM

I believe my 2000 SS was previously tuned in a shop by the previous owner. He wasn't a handy car guy himself, said he had his friend take the car to get the Pacesetter LT's, GMMG catback, and SLP MAF put on. And I just assumed it was tuned there as well since it does not throw any codes because of the headers and MAF. This was all done 5 or 6 years ago. Now I've read all the stories about Granatelli and SLP MAF's so I'm thinking I want to just change back to the OEM one.

Could that cause a problem changing back to the OEM one if there was a tune performed by a shop previously?

Thanks guys,

**c5z28** · 04-19-2010, 11:05 AM

It could, if the car is tuned for it don't bother changing it out the hard part was already done for you

**Knight** · 04-19-2010, 11:08 AM

As long as the car runs ok, I wouldn't worry about it. If it does take a dump maybe look into a SD tune instead.

**shady milkman** · 04-19-2010, 11:15 AM

keep it as it is tuned for the slp

uke: maf and it is running fine. if it was running shitty then swap to a oem and get a frost tune etc.

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-19-2010, 02:23 PM

It seems to run ok as far as I can tell. I haven't really had much time with it with no SES light.

-battery died soon after buying it (installed new battery).
-Right after that, SES light (p0416) came on for passenger check valve AIR system (replaced check valve and light went away.)
-installed new paper filter, tons of bugs in old reusable filter
-cleaned SLP MAF with maf cleaner best I could.
-I installed NGK plugs and MSD wires then cleaned engine down with a hose, just my luck, that killed the bank 1 knock sensor (p0327). (also when i got that scan, it scanned another p0416 for some reason).

I drove it for a week or so with light on....then drove it hard on some back roads to try and fix it through having fun, haha and the next day the light went away. Thought maybe I was good. No light for few days and now light is back again. Guessing it's still the knock sensor. Even with the light on, it seems to run fairly well, and a slightly smoother, when no light was on. I'll replace those knock sensors and hopefully no more problems.

p.s. I thought I was scott free to enjoy my car finally with no problems once I did the plugs and wires, just wanted to clean up the engine bay a little and all it does is cause more problems. Not to mention, turn signal just went out 2 days ago and while replacing them, I realized the clear corner lenses the guy before had on here are crap. Signal light sits loose in the housing. Speakers covers rattle, something sorta rattles under the shifter while in drive or reverse when going slow. Hood doesn't meet up evenly on the nose. These cars are frustrating as hell fellas. But I do love them.

**c5z28** · 04-19-2010, 08:37 PM

The hood can be fixed by modifying the hood latch. Don't ask me specifics just something I heard

**Z28boy2000** · 04-20-2010, 10:11 PM

for the hood issue

remove the latch from the hood, then (with at-least 1 other person) loosen the back 2 bolts that hold the hood to the hood supports, pull the hood up/forward as far as you can, tighten the bolts again. close the hood to see if the movement of the hood up/forward closed that gap. then reattach the hood latch.

not sure what other techniques are out there but this one worked for me.

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-21-2010, 05:48 AM

I'll give the hood a try at a later date. I'll have to play with it because the gap is basically touching on the driver side nose and is almost a 1/4 inch on the passenger side nose. Nothing major, only see it once you get withing 15-20 ft.

I'll keep the SLP MAF. It seems to run strong still, even with the ses light on.

I also just got some other news today too though. My buddy works at a company that sells alignment and balancing equipment, and they do free servicing to test cars and mine was one of them. They found out the inner tie rods are worn, so chalk up another problem to the list of minor inconveniences of a 10 year old Camaro SS.

Tierods and knock sensors are in my future.

**Damian** · 04-21-2010, 08:58 AM

SLP MAF's are junk. I would switch back to stock. I know this from experience and trying to tune the SLP's.

**shady milkman** · 04-21-2010, 10:04 AM

Originally Posted by Damian

SLP MAF's are junk. I would switch back to stock. I know this from experience and trying to tune the SLP's.

inconsistent readings correct ?

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-22-2010, 07:13 AM

Originally Posted by Damian

SLP MAF's are junk. I would switch back to stock. I know this from experience and trying to tune the SLP's.

Even if the car was tuned reasonably well, seemingly, with the SLP MAF?

And if I did switch back to the stock, I assume I would have to get the computer flashed again, am I right?

**Damian** · 04-22-2010, 10:02 AM

inconsistent readings correct ?

You are correct sir. MAJOR pain in the arse to tune.

Originally Posted by PhantomHaZe

Even if the car was tuned reasonably well, seemingly, with the SLP MAF?

And if I did switch back to the stock, I assume I would have to get the computer flashed again, am I right?

I'd be willing to be $100 that whatever shop "tuned" the car, didn't even touch the MAF tables. I read all kinds of shop tunes from all different kinds of places, and nobody scales the MAF. It's a very common thing that gets overlooked. Most don't touch the VE's either, which is pretty sad.

I've also seen cars actually lose power with the Granatelli and SLP MAF's. Chances are you might pick up 1-2hp going back to stock, and then you'll have the convenience of easy calibration when getting it tuned.