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02-24-2007, 01:54 PM #1
Strange Noise I think its my headers
I've been catching hell since I got my headers installed.
NOW I've got a noise that only come when I'm under hard throttle and high rpms. I've really decreased the noise with my own work.
The problems began when I took my car to an exhaust shop and asked them to tighten the bolts to my headers to the engine. They decided to go through and rearrange ALL of my exhaust and I noticed my cme's were sticking out the back like 2in and crooked as hell. I took it back and talked to them about it, next thing you know is their lift hung on my ypipe when it was being backed off. I eventually got them to pay for me a new ypipe.
Now under heavy acceleration I get a sound that makes me think when my engine twists, the driver side header touches the body. Its only about enough space to get your finger in there and I've already tried to adjust the ypipe. I hate this sound.
Any help is appreciated.
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02-25-2007, 03:41 AM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- indiana
- Age
- 41
- Posts
- 1,018
black, 05 Roush- black, 99 T/A WS.6
My xpipe used to bang against the body of my car, changed my motor mounts and no more banging.
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02-25-2007, 05:11 AM #3
- Join Date
- Dec 2002
- Location
- n/w chicago
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- 54
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- 6,932
black- 2000 nhra edition formula
heat up the y pipe and bend it alittle downwards.
or, take a crobar and pull down.2000 nhra edition formula
a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
11.96 @113.25
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02-25-2007, 12:54 PM #4
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02-25-2007, 12:57 PM #5
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02-25-2007, 01:35 PM #6
If you can stick your finger in between the header and the body, it is not contacting there unless you got bad mounts. It should not torque that much.
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02-25-2007, 01:35 PM #7
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02-25-2007, 03:48 PM #8
how much are engine mounts and how do you install them?
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02-25-2007, 03:55 PM #9
They are about $35 a piece for Energy Suspension mounts. Support the engine on one side with a jack, lift just enough to take the weight off, and change. Same for the other side.
Although, I wouldn't go changing them unless you know their bad. How many miles are on em and how do they look? If its a manual, does your shifter move excessively when excelerating?
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02-25-2007, 04:05 PM #10
about 51,000 miles on them and I have no idea what they look like. No the shifter doesn't really move when accelerating.
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02-25-2007, 04:10 PM #11
You could try taking a crobar and seeing how much they move. Chances are that a Energy Suspension motor and trans mount will eliminate most vibrations. They are alot stiffer and will last longer.
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02-25-2007, 04:42 PM #12
thanks for the info, I'll look into them.
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02-25-2007, 06:41 PM #13
- Join Date
- Dec 2002
- Location
- n/w chicago
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 6,932
black- 2000 nhra edition formula
fuck doing motor mounts.
go to any exhaust shop or garage, have them get out a torch and heat up teh y pipe and bend it alittle.
thunder racing also sells this thing called the y pipe bang stop or some shit like that.
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02-25-2007, 06:57 PM #14
Yes, the Mufflex hanger will help but if his Headers are hitting the body like he thinks, it will do no good. You gotta check all around and not just think a hanger is gonna fix it all. You wind up having shit flexing all over the place and eventially breaking. Good Luck, I hope it is the y-pipe cause motor mounts are a p.i.t.a.!!!
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02-25-2007, 08:42 PM #15
As a test put a piece of heater hose between the Y-pipe and floor board where it's the closest to your floorboard. If it stops banging then you can put money it's the Y-pipe. I had this issue after my install. I finally put the car on stands and decided I was gonna fix it come hell or high water. What I ended up finding out is the angle of the I pipe is crucial to keep the Y from hitting. Loosen all your clamps back to where it goes over the axle. Adjust the I pipe angle going over the axle to where you have the most clearance with your Y then wedge blocks of wood between the Y and floorboard to keep it from moving and tighten everythng up then knock the blocks out. Did that last year and haven't had it hit since.
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02-25-2007, 09:20 PM #16
So
1. Loosen up all clamps back to the axle
2. straighten up the ipipe to make sure I get the most clearance over the axle.
3. Use blocks to hold the exhaust in position.
4. Clamp the exhaust back into place tightly from back to front.
5. Test drive and see how I like it?
That's the way I understand it.
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02-25-2007, 11:24 PM #17
everything except #2 is right.
You're not looking for the most clearance over the axle, you're looking for the angle that gets you the most Y pipe clearance. When you twist the I-pipe it changes the angle that it connects to the Y. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get under there.
Do you have U-bolt style clamps or band clamps? If you tighten the U-bolts up to much it'll crush the pipe and you'll never get it back off. I used band clamps all the way back. They don't seal quite as well but if you're like me and have your exhaust off from time to time there's no other way to go.
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02-26-2007, 03:44 AM #18
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- indiana
- Age
- 41
- Posts
- 1,018
black, 05 Roush- black, 99 T/A WS.6
Mine was motor mounts for sure,. I have x pipe with 3"mandrel bent true duals that dump before the axle. too bad mine wasnt just a damn Ipipe. Like stated before changing motor mounts sucks. Kinda scary too, first time I did it, had a buddy with more expirience help.
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02-26-2007, 07:14 AM #19
I got those u-bolts. it is on there pretty tight. I've got a buddy at a custom performance shop who specializes in exhaust and I'll take it to him later today.
By the way I'm gettin GMMG later in the summer, should I just wait and get it all done then?
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02-27-2007, 11:18 AM #20
GOT IT FIXED, it was a damn loose bolt in one of my headers. I took it to my buddy who's in my opinion an expert when it comes to exhaust systems and he found it and I haven't had any problems out of it since. IT SOUNDS SO MUCH BETTER!!!!!!
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