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Started Pacesetter Install

This is a discussion on Started Pacesetter Install within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Started this evening putting Pacesetter LTs and a TSP catted Y on my 2002 z28. So far I've just taken ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Sebring Silver Metallic
    2002 Z28

    Started Pacesetter Install

    Started this evening putting Pacesetter LTs and a TSP catted Y on my 2002 z28. So far I've just taken off the y-pipe and converters, but everything was fairly easy to get loose, and I haven't lost that much blood so far.

    Anyway, I have a couple of questions.

    1) I've seen a lot of posts where people have found their plug wires get burned after a header install. What's the best way to protect them?

    2) I've got the k-member up about 19" off the ground. Is that going to be enough to slide the headers in?

    3) Should I just go ahead and replace the O2 sensors while I'm in there? They've got 74,000 miles on them.

    And any other tips for the rest of the install would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Member jujofields's Avatar
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    Pewter Metallic
    2002 Trans Am WS.6

    1. A good thing to do to protect your plug wires is to replace them with high-temp performance plug wires. To further protect them (especially the right side #6 spark plug wire) you can insulate them with a piece of 3/8" fuel hose. You could also use wire sleeving....

    2. I've seen a lot of recommendations for the car to be raised a minimum of 36" to allow the headers to slide in...

    3. It couldn't hurt to go ahead & replace the O2 sensors, especially since they have 74k miles on them, and you're going to be removing the old ones anyways for the header install....

    Also, it's a good idea to use anti-seize lubricant on all nuts, bolts, and studs...

  3. #3
    That guy thearborbarber's Avatar
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    You might need new ones anyway. When I took my rear ones out, one came out all right and the other left about 3/4 of its threads in the Y pipe.

  4. #4
    Senior Member ss~zoso~ss's Avatar
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    dont replace the o2's i didnt and i'm still fine, although i'm only using 2 out of the 4

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    Midnight Blue Metalic
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    I replaced my O2's. My thinking was first I'm putting on new Lt's and cats might as well have everything new and second I'm there with everything taken apart anyway saves me from having to come back.

  6. #6
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    Ticket Red
    M6 1998 Z-28

    any installation tips...ie. what needs removed to get the Pacesetter LTs in?
    im hoping to do it soon too.

    98 Ticket Red Z28
    Mods:
    Front/rear sway bars, poly bushings all around, Bilstein Shocks, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Pacesetter LT's, 2.5" Custom True Duals over the axle with Magnaflow mufflers, Shortened Pro 5.0 shifter, TurnOne PS pump.

  7. #7
    rapter34
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    19" should be good but the higher you go the eaiser they are to install. JUst make sure it is safe before you go under there.

  8. #8
    Member jujofields's Avatar
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    Pewter Metallic
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapter34 View Post
    19" should be good but the higher you go the eaiser they are to install. JUst make sure it is safe before you go under there.
    DEFINITELY!!! The higher up the easier (as long as you've safely supported the vehicle in the air)...

  9. #9
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapter34 View Post
    19" should be good but the higher you go the eaiser they are to install. JUst make sure it is safe before you go under there.
    I recommend to put cinderblocks under the wheels after you jack it up and put it on jackstands - extra measure of safety and still easy to move around under the car. 19" is plenty of room.

    I would do new O2s in the front and tune the back ones out. Hi flow cats throw codes almost immediately (mine did).

    Also, get some $1 dielectric grease for your plug wire connections to prevent them from siezing together in the future

  10. #10
    tattoo artist,esquire sic2001's Avatar
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    Dude I suer hope you test fitted that stuff before you got going. I just did my pacesetter/tsp catted y in and it in NO FUCKIN way went together like some kinda boltin packeage. Its a good thing I took mine to Cunninghams in Lake Elsinore. They had to finesse the connectors on and that cat and pie is THISSSSS close to the gas lines so we had to wrap emin a fire retardant mesh. Test fit and you shold be good. Using extensions is way easier than rewiring like they supply and suggest at Texas Speed.
    GMPP LS6 crate motor,racetronix,Wilwood 6 piston,HID's,200mph speedo,full dynomat, GY F1's,17" Y2K, Alpine audio upgrade,3" ele cutout, LT's, catted-Y, full suspension

  11. #11
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    if any GTO guys are reading this I have a tip for you.
    1 take out the lines going into the rack on the driverside,
    2 unbolt the rack and pull it back and down a few inches,
    3 take old manifolds out and bolt in passenger side header,
    4 slide driverside header up in but do not bolt in,
    5 bolt rack back in place,(17mm crows foot and 2 foot 3/8" extension make it a lot easier),
    6 now bolt driverside header in

    please don't use cement blocks...they can break without warning.... luckily still had the tires on a car I was working on but a few years ago block gaveout, left me pinned under car for a few hours and cracked 3 ribs

  12. #12
    rapter34
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    Quote Originally Posted by sic2001 View Post
    Dude I suer hope you test fitted that stuff before you got going. I just did my pacesetter/tsp catted y in and it in NO FUCKIN way went together like some kinda boltin packeage. Its a good thing I took mine to Cunninghams in Lake Elsinore. They had to finesse the connectors on and that cat and pie is THISSSSS close to the gas lines so we had to wrap emin a fire retardant mesh. Test fit and you shold be good. Using extensions is way easier than rewiring like they supply and suggest at Texas Speed.
    yup! I had the same problem with the TSP catted y. Basically it was cats with extra pipes I had to let my shop weld some shit in to make them fit. I guess awsome places like TSP have some short falls.

  13. #13
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    if any GTO guys are reading this I have a tip for you.
    1 take out the lines going into the rack on the driverside,
    2 unbolt the rack and pull it back and down a few inches,
    3 take old manifolds out and bolt in passenger side header,
    4 slide driverside header up in but do not bolt in,
    5 bolt rack back in place,(17mm crows foot and 2 foot 3/8" extension make it a lot easier),
    6 now bolt driverside header in

    please don't use cement blocks...they can break without warning.... luckily still had the tires on a car I was working on but a few years ago block gaveout, left me pinned under car for a few hours and cracked 3 ribs

    Please note: I suggest blocks plus jack stands, not either or. Both. Double support=safety.

    Interesting to hear about the TSP setup issues. I was very tempted by that deal, but am now glad I went another route given the troubles mentioned here.

  14. #14
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    Sebring Silver Metallic
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    Thanks for all the replies, guys.

    I did the install back in early May, so I've had some time to recover from the install (I call it death by a thousand cuts) and live with the setup for a while. Here are some observations.

    I have nothing but good to say about the Pacesetter headers. They look great and any of the install guides will get you there. The 19" I had the k-member jacked up was more than enough. I thought the passenger side header was going to be a challenge, but I found the right angle and all of a sudden it was in place. The time consuming things were the things that should have been easy. (Getting to the last passenger side coil pack bolt, for example)

    The performance improvement is noticeable. I have LMII exhaust and the sound is loud, but not too loud. Mean at WOT, actually fairly quiet when cruising.

    At the other extreme is the TSP catted Y. I have nothing good to say about it! I had to have both pieces that go over the collectors expanded. Not even close to fitting. Also, the driver's side cat is way too low. Why they put it back close to the Y instead of up by the header collector, I have no idea. I only have about 4" of ground clearance under the driver-side cat and it's up as high as it will go. I'll be looking for a muffler shop redo soon.

  15. #15
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Black With T-Tops
    96 Z28 M6

    Im about to do LT hooker headers install in my LT1, I understand all the safty stuff. But I heard you guys mentioning burning the plugs? Is this true with all headers? even the ceramic ones? and if this is true I guess I need to get new spark plug wires that could withstand higher heat?

  16. #16
    Member jujofields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jujofields View Post
    1. A good thing to do to protect your plug wires is to replace them with high-temp performance plug wires. To further protect them (especially the right side #6 spark plug wire) you can insulate them with a piece of 3/8" fuel hose. You could also use wire sleeving....
    2. I've seen a lot of recommendations for the car to be raised a minimum of 36" to allow the headers to slide in...

    3. It couldn't hurt to go ahead & replace the O2 sensors, especially since they have 74k miles on them, and you're going to be removing the old ones anyways for the header install....

    Also, it's a good idea to use anti-seize lubricant on all nuts, bolts, and studs...
    There ya go!

  17. #17
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    will the stock plugs live up to the new temperatures of headers?

    what if you wrap the headers with insulation?

    thoughts?

  18. #18
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raysz28 View Post
    will the stock plugs live up to the new temperatures of headers?

    what if you wrap the headers with insulation?

    thoughts?
    wraping your headers can accually shorten there lifespan by holding moisture...i don't recomend wraping them.
    your plugs should be fine, after my mods I went from an autolite 104 down to a 103.
    if it looks like your wires are too close to the header you can (sleeves) for the wires, they look like a little piece of fabric that just slides over the wire

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