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spark plugs

This is a discussion on spark plugs within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; How can I tell if I need a hotter or colder spark plug? Right now I have ac delco irridiums,not ...

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    spark plugs

    How can I tell if I need a hotter or colder spark plug? Right now I have ac delco irridiums,not sure of the number but its just the stock plug. I'm running a heads/cam ls1 383 and wondering if I should put a different plug in it.
    Callies 383, Trick Flow 225, Rapid Motorsports Dominatior 2 X cam, ls6 ported oil pump,42lb injectors, FAST 92/92 , ASP underdrive pully, eletric water pump, Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow catback, e-cutout, Yank SS 3600, Performabuilt stage 2 4l60e, Strange S60 ,4.10s, Detroit Truetrac, (UMI) - Adj. LCA, Adj. tunnel mount torque arm, Adj. panhard bar, Drag bar, subframe conectors, shock tower brace. 465rwhp-438rwtq 11.09@119.90.

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    Member Nowhereman's Avatar
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    You getting any pinging ? NO? then it's not too hot a plug.
    Coughing when cold? then the plugs are not too cold.
    Should be ok
    Your compression ratio is the critical thing here.
    Cylinder pressure should be ok.
    Be who you are and say what you feel 'cause people who mind don't matter, and people who matter don't mind.'
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    Coloration and deposits on the electrode tell the story of what is going on. I think it was Firebirdjones who posted some great info on plugs. If I am not mistaken, his work on the dyno lead him to run Autolite AR103's (or something like that). The heat ranges on the NGK's just did not match up from what I remember.

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    Member Nowhereman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Coloration and deposits on the electrode tell the story of what is going on. I think it was Firebirdjones who posted some great info on plugs. If I am not mistaken, his work on the dyno lead him to run Autolite AR103's (or something like that). The heat ranges on the NGK's just did not match up from what I remember.
    Actually, with today's fuels it gets harder to do that.
    One mistake many make is that they attempt to read the electrode at the top of the insulator.
    In reality, you should be reading farther down the ceramic insulator to get a more accurate reading.

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    Junior Member smokestack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nowhereman View Post
    Actually, with today's fuels it gets harder to do that.
    One mistake many make is that they attempt to read the electrode at the top of the insulator.
    In reality, you should be reading farther down the ceramic insulator to get a more accurate reading.
    Kinda like a plug chop for a 2 STROKE? I wonder how we could do that with a car though? Like how many miles under what conditions. Like wot or cruise? And how many miles?. Seems like a good idea. Sorry. Just something i have been thinking about. I it alot with my banshee and makes me think of the cars as well.

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Coloration and deposits on the electrode tell the story of what is going on. I think it was Firebirdjones who posted some great info on plugs. If I am not mistaken, his work on the dyno lead him to run Autolite AR103's (or something like that). The heat ranges on the NGK's just did not match up from what I remember.
    I was reading thought those posts that FBJ put up, some very interesting stuff in there. I'm gonna look into those copper core auto lights ar103s. Thanks Jeff.

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nowhereman View Post
    You getting any pinging ? NO? then it's not too hot a plug.
    Coughing when cold? then the plugs are not too cold.
    Should be ok
    Your compression ratio is the critical thing here.
    Cylinder pressure should be ok.
    No pinging or coughing, just wondering if I'm running the best plug or not.

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