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Solid motor mount thoughts?

This is a discussion on Solid motor mount thoughts? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; anyone ever use the solid aluminum motor mounts from ws6store? whats everyones thought on solid mounts. I have basic bolt ...

  1. #1
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    Solid motor mount thoughts?

    anyone ever use the solid aluminum motor mounts from ws6store? whats everyones thought on solid mounts. I have basic bolt ons nothin crazy

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO

    They are mostly used in racing applications to keep the driveline ridged. You will feel and hear more vibration but you can use them without hurting anything.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    FWIW, a good set of poly engine mounts work great. You have to drill the rivets in the stock clam shells and heat them up a bit to remove the old rubber mounts (unless they have already broken free) to install the new poly mounts.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    I have them on mine and love them. The motor stays perfectly still. You do need to replace the Trans mount with a poly one too when using the solids. I have the solid mounts in conjunction with the umi road race k-member where the pedestal for the mount is built into the k-member. All in all I love them and are really impressed with the product.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Only negatives I've heard is that it transfers engine vibrations into the car. For those that never felt that before it could drive them nuts.

  6. #6
    Have used poly and solid. Poly is my choice. Had major vibration with solid.

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    I haven't noticed any additional vibration with poly engine mounts. However, the poly trans mount drove me nuts and that only lasted for several days before I pulled it out and reinstalled the stock rubber trans mount.

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    Member DarrenWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I haven't noticed any additional vibration with poly engine mounts. However, the poly trans mount drove me nuts and that only lasted for several days before I pulled it out and reinstalled the stock rubber trans mount.
    Having rode in your car and comparing it to mine, with poly mounts yours does not rock or shake from vibration at all and is a very pleasant ride!

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    Thanks! Of course, you didn't mention the clunky tunnel mount torque arm or whiny 12 bolt...

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    Member DarrenWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Thanks! Of course, you didn't mention the clunky tunnel mount torque arm or whiny 12 bolt...
    No, but the engine didn't shake up the car! .
    pajeff02 likes this.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    I had polys installed recently. I'm not sure if I notice more vibration because of the mounts or because of the other things that were done to the car (heads and mild cam). But I do feel more vibration. Nevertheless, in my limited experience, tightening up the chassis and reducing twist is only a good thing, especially if the intrusion of vibration is negligible.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I've never had any interest in doing this to a 4th gen, however back when I was playing with V8 Monza's and Vega's I used them as daily drivers with solid mounts for years and I never really noticed vibration issues.

    They didn't (and still don't to my knowledge) make new factory OEM V8 Monza motor mounts that I could find anywhere. Since the rubber insulators were toast I simply welded the mounts up solid. I still have them in a box along with all the other V8 swap parts in the event I might have another one in the future.

    Another trick I use on the classic cars, is to install a solid mount on the driver side and keep a rubber mount on the passenger side. Drives like stock but the engine doesn't lift under acceleration, keeps from snapping that driver side mount that was sometimes an issue on the classic muscle cars. Back in the day there was a recall for that and the GM fix was a torque strap installed that wrapped around the control arm.

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    I had you figured for a "2 bolts and a chain" type of guy, FBJ.

    Actually, that's a neat idea going with a single solid mount. Not sure I had heard of that before.

  14. #14
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    You figured right Used to do 2 bolts and a chain, cables and turn buckles, etc.... They don't allow that stuff in PS though so I had to get creative.

    The solid mount on the driver side with a stock rubber mount on the passenger side is very effective. Compressing the mount on the pass side doesn't hurt anything, they don't really compress much at all, and there is no chance of failure either. Yet they allow alot of vibration to be soaked up so it's a nice setup for the street.

    Stretching the mount on the other hand is bad, that's how they fail, always the driver side that does the stretching. A solid mount here cures that, no need for cables and chains anymore It's also alot cheaper than buying a complete set of poly mounts ($100 for some classic cars)

    A set of poly mounts do the job though and work perfectly fine, it's just alot of extra coin.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    I've had spohn solid mounts on my daily driver for the last 2 years. No regrets. A little vibration on loose fasteners in the interior, but that is easily fixed by tightening whatever is loose.

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