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SLP Lid vs. K&N FIPK II or Volant Cold Air Induction

This is a discussion on SLP Lid vs. K&N FIPK II or Volant Cold Air Induction within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hello how are you guys doing today? I have an '02 SS with the SLP Dual Dual Option from the ...

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    '02 Camaro SS

    SLP Lid vs. K&N FIPK II or Volant Cold Air Induction

    Hello how are you guys doing today? I have an '02 SS with the SLP Dual Dual Option from the factory. The car is "supposed" to make 345hp but I haven't dynoed yet to get ctual rwhp. I was wondering has anyone replaced the SLP lid with the K&N FIPK II kit and if you did what were the gains and was there a noticeable difference in performance? Also if you've swapped for Volant, cold air induction that info would be helpful and appreciated as well. Thanks and have a good day.

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    Lids flow very well, usually net you 6-10 hp over stock setup. As far as upgrading to a KNFIPK or Volant I don't think the minimal gains you will see justify the added cost for each part. In other words the $$$ spent on the FIPK/Volant is better spent towards another mod. You could pick up a nice set of SFC or LCA for the price of either of those 2, or save up and get some headers. What are your goals with the car?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711 View Post
    Lids flow very well, usually net you 6-10 hp over stock setup. As far as upgrading to a KNFIPK or Volant I don't think the minimal gains you will see justify the added cost for each part. In other words the $$$ spent on the FIPK/Volant is better spent towards another mod. You could pick up a nice set of SFC or LCA for the price of either of those 2, or save up and get some headers. What are your goals with the car?
    Hello Hurley,

    First, what is an SFC or LCA? I tried to figure it out, but I'm stumped. I didn't think they (K&N or Volant) made that big a difference over the SLP, but I had to ask. Well, plans for the car are to help it breathe better, without going into the motor. Unfortunately, I'm still paying for the car and can't afford to did into motor like I would want to, nor pay for the repairs when things start to break from serious mods. Well starting from front to back as far as aspiration goes. I will keep the SLP lid, but I'm going to slip an SLP Cold Air Induction under it and trim the SLP box so more air can get into it. By that I mean cut the two squares out of the bottom so more air can get in once the cold air kit is installed. I was considering trimming the front of the box also where the air comes in from the hood. I thought about running some tubing from the air intake in the bumber to the sides of the box also, but that is probably over kill, since I'm not porting heads or changing the cam. Plus I don't want the car to throw any codes. From there, I was going to add an SLP MAF and bellows to allow the increased air flow and smooth the air out. MAYBE port my TB, but don't know yet. I'm researching headers and it looks like I'll be going with the Hooker long tubes, they are a trusted name and affordable. Behind them will be some hi-performance cat cons, because in MD I have to be emissions legal, that will flow into a 3" Y pipe. Here is the tricky part, I don't know which Cat-Back to get. According to sound clips online; which I have been warned not to go by because the sound is completely different in person; I'm between a Corsa, Borla or Bassani cat back. I am looking for a deep respectable tone, definitley louder than the SLP Dual Dual, which it has now, but not a lot of "rasp" when I come off the throttle. When people say rasp I think they are talking about that popping, backfire sound when you come off the throttle quickly, but I'm not sure, I'm still learning. I thought about putting the headers, cat cons and Y pipe on and see how it sounds with the SLP Dual Dual, that may be the sound I'm looking for. And after all that, I was going to tune it with the SLP Diablo Predator II programmer. The car is supposed to be making 345hp now, but I'm going to dyno it soon, before I make any mods. And the mods will be done all at the same time. I'm going to buy piece by piece and stack them in my apartment until I get everything and one weekend when I'm off, have at it. I want to see what the dyno says before I do anything. I'm honestly expecting the car to be at 295 rwhp right now, but thats just because I'm skeptical about SLP's #'s. Do you have any suggestions?

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    Wow. From above here ya go. Forget the bellows and SLP MAF. Waste of $$$ on both. Pacesetter makes a nice set of headers in the same price range as Hooker, and for CB I have a Hooker CB, Magnaflow makes a stainless which sounds nice also. LS1sounds.com for that.....Hooker CB has NO rasp for me, I have heard complaints of Magnaflow being raspy with headers and an ORY. As far as emissions, if MD doesn't do a visual you can have the codes deleted for the cats. SFC are Sub Frame Connectors, they go for $130-$150 and they tighten up the underside of LS1 cars. they are a must mod for our cars. Instll is usually $50 or so for welding them in. LCA are Lower Control Arms, they help eliminate or reduce wheel hop when launching. Tighten up the suspension on the car first, it will help to put the added power to the wheels. Your car should dyno more than 295 stock, as long as it isn't on a Mustang dyno. Most hit between 300-315 in stock trim. Forget the SLP MAF, I can't say that enough. Take that $160 and buy some SFC from BMRfabrications.com

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    The SLP DD is a great flowing CB, I would give it a shot with headers, see if they wake it up at all. That CB flows very well, and yes porting your TB is a good way to gain 6-10 hp, just make sure you don't port it to far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711 View Post
    Wow. From above here ya go. Forget the bellows and SLP MAF. Waste of $$$ on both. Pacesetter makes a nice set of headers in the same price range as Hooker, and for CB I have a Hooker CB, Magnaflow makes a stainless which sounds nice also. LS1sounds.com for that.....Hooker CB has NO rasp for me, I have heard complaints of Magnaflow being raspy with headers and an ORY. As far as emissions, if MD doesn't do a visual you can have the codes deleted for the cats. SFC are Sub Frame Connectors, they go for $130-$150 and they tighten up the underside of LS1 cars. they are a must mod for our cars. Instll is usually $50 or so for welding them in. LCA are Lower Control Arms, they help eliminate or reduce wheel hop when launching. Tighten up the suspension on the car first, it will help to put the added power to the wheels. Your car should dyno more than 295 stock, as long as it isn't on a Mustang dyno. Most hit between 300-315 in stock trim. Forget the SLP MAF, I can't say that enough. Take that $160 and buy some SFC from BMRfabrications.com

    I'm going to ask around at the car club I might join, but I don't think I can get away from the cat's because here in MD, when you get the car inspectd for emissions, they connect a tube to your exhaust and analyze the fumes. They don't just look at the car or connect a computer under the dash. I was thinking about stiffening the suspension, but I didn't think I needed that yet, because I didn't think I was making that big an upgrade. How much more power do you think I am going to make by making the changes?

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    Do SFC and LCA and you WILL notice a diff in the suspension. SFC tighten up the underside of your car and prevent it from twisting fromk excess power.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711 View Post
    Do SFC and LCA and you WILL notice a diff in the suspension. SFC tighten up the underside of your car and prevent it from twisting fromk excess power.
    Do you think I should get weld on or bolt on SFC's? Does it make a difference?

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    I just got my car inspected in jersey and I was so surprised they didn't do an emissions test or looks under the car for cats or anything. As long as it doesnt blow smoke you seem to be okay. That means I can run my true duals without cats with hopefully nothing to worry about.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02gixxersix View Post
    I just got my car inspected in jersey and I was so surprised they didn't do an emissions test or looks under the car for cats or anything. As long as it doesnt blow smoke you seem to be okay. That means I can run my true duals without cats with hopefully nothing to worry about.
    Yeah, I did some research and found out since my car is after 96 they only connect to the computer, they dont sniff test. So of course the cats are coming off, and it will be long tube's to a 3in ORY to my SLP Dual Dual to see how it sounds and performs, then go from there. What I need to see is how to stop the computer from throwing the cat codes after they are gone.

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Chevy View Post
    Yeah, I did some research and found out since my car is after 96 they only connect to the computer, they dont sniff test. So of course the cats are coming off, and it will be long tube's to a 3in ORY to my SLP Dual Dual to see how it sounds and performs, then go from there. What I need to see is how to stop the computer from throwing the cat codes after they are gone.
    Get someone to delete the cat codes, it's tha tsimple

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711 View Post
    Get someone to delete the cat codes, it's tha tsimple
    I'm going to get someone to do it. I don't know if a shop will, because when I had to get an inspection to register the car NO ONE would approve me with the tint I had. I'm assuming if they act like that behind tint, it will probably be the same for the codes. I might end up buying a programmer, but I'm still undecided. Fortunately that's the last step after I make all the other mods. Headers, 3" ORY, thermo, port TB and improve hood and SLP lid function. I'm going to do those free mods I keep seeing about and then dyno. Looking to pick up a few horses, but really help the engine breathe better and maybe better MPG.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Chevy View Post
    I'm going to get someone to do it. I don't know if a shop will, because when I had to get an inspection to register the car NO ONE would approve me with the tint I had. I'm assuming if they act like that behind tint, it will probably be the same for the codes. I might end up buying a programmer, but I'm still undecided. Fortunately that's the last step after I make all the other mods. Headers, 3" ORY, thermo, port TB and improve hood and SLP lid function. I'm going to do those free mods I keep seeing about and then dyno. Looking to pick up a few horses, but really help the engine breathe better and maybe better MPG.
    go to a ls1 tuner and they will do it.
    2000 nhra edition formula
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