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slp 3in y-pipe hitting

This is a discussion on slp 3in y-pipe hitting within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; On my 2000 WS6 the aftermarket slp y-pipe is hitting the underside of the car and the noise is getting ...

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    slp 3in y-pipe hitting

    On my 2000 WS6 the aftermarket slp y-pipe is hitting the underside of the car and the noise is getting old, I knew this would probably happen. My question is what is the best fix, I figured just wrap it with an heat tap or some kind of wrap, has anyone done this for a fix?
    2001 Camaro SS, LM 1, BMR LCA, relocation brackets, BMR springs, adj panhard bar, smooth below, lid, sub-frame connectors weld on, strut brace
    2000 WS6, ls6 intake, sub-frame connectors, slp maf, slp cat delete with slp y-pipe, electric cutout, strut brace, smooth below, slp lid, bmr LCA and RLB

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    They make an exhaust bracket specially designed to remedy this issue. Let me see if I can go find it...

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    Here it is -- this was posted in response to an issue I had when I installed my Kooks LT's and catted Y-pipe: Kooks Y-Pipe Fitment Issue (Pics)

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    The piece in that thread is the only thing I've ever heard of to help/fix. I was about to put on my SS, but sold it. You can find them online for $50 I think

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Jeff is the Mr. Fixit man !
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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    the key to having that pipe not hit is the angle it comes over the axle. That's how I fixed mine. Loosen everything up and adjust that angle where it goes over the axle that gives you the most clearance where the bend under the drivers seat is. Once you start twisting that intermediate pipe it'll start making sense to you. When you twist that pipe it effects how your Y pipe sits which gives you more or less clearance depending on the direction you twisted it. After you get it where you want it go down the pipe and put blocks of wood between the Y and I pipes and body....make sure the blocks fit in there tight. Once you have your blocks in tighten the shit out of everything. After everything is correctly tightened to the proper amount of shit knock the blocks out. Worked for me.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!! where car that part be bought? and also do think just simple heat wrap would be enough for a quick fix?

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    All tape will do is dampen it a little. I like the idea of putting wood shims in after loosening the entire system, then retightening. The whole reason why your Y hits the floorboard is because the engine rolls to the passenger side under load. That is also the reason you will find your driver's side exhaust manifold bolts super tight/broken off while the passenger side exhaust manifold bolts are loose/missing. But, that's a subject for another day.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    I looked today and it looks like there is more than enough room, the only thing it looks like it is hitting is the aftermarket tunnel brace.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Aftermarket tunnel braces are designed for specific exhaust setups. It mainly depends on what kind of headers you have. There's two types, IRCC, one for stock and kooks, and the others is for all types (or most) of headers.

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    ^^ Sounds correct from what I can recall. OP - do you have a pic of where it is hitting?

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Ill take one, its the driveshaft safety loop I'm pretty sure but ill get a picture.

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    I installed a set of SLP longtubes w/ the y pipe (got them CHEAP on CL) this weekend and have no trouble with it hitting the floorboards. I installed poly mounts while I was in there.

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    I think you just need to adjust the exhaust some. I also had the SLP Y-pipe installed on stock manifolds with the SLP LMII and mine did not hit the underside of the car. It did, however, hit where it goes up over the axle. I had to adjust it like Orion stated. I also used a PHB relocation kit for additional clearance in that area.

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