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PO106 & PO101 and throttle stick

This is a discussion on PO106 & PO101 and throttle stick within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; so I changed my camshaft positioning sensor(removed and reinstalled intake manifold) and it all went together fine but now it ...

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    GET SOME claytonr's Avatar
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    PO106 & PO101 and throttle stick

    so I changed my camshaft positioning sensor(removed and reinstalled intake manifold) and it all went together fine but now it is throwing the PO106 and PO101 codes and when idling/driving in gear it revs it self up and stays at about 2k for a while then back down..im thinking it is a vacuum hose off or something in the back of the intake..frustrated..need advice..thanks

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    101 is most likely a result of the 106 and it sounds like your intake didn't seat down correctly or you left a hose off in the back like you're thinking.

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    GET SOME claytonr's Avatar
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    i just checked all hoses and like i assumed they were all attached..:/ i slightly oiled all gaskets before putting back on so they would seat..probably what it is though..

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    you check that little line that goes to the T connector for the a/c vents? It sounds though like you have a major leak. Did you look over the intake to make sure it was seated down all the way?

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    i checked it all out and it was seated good.? the T connector just came apart when I took it off because there is NO slack in it whatsoever but it just slid back together when I reinstalled..hell w/ it i just took it to the shop, theyre gonna smoke the system and see where the leak is in the morning..damm gonna be more expensive than them just doing the sensor swap in the first place :/

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Let me know how it turns out. I have a similar issue
    LS1, SLP lid, SLP MAF, bilstein HP shocks, SLP longtube/tuned headers and loudmouth exhaust, built 4L60E w/ transgo shift kit, true ram air, ported TB, LS6 intake, LS6 PCV w/ catch can, FAST fuel rails, LCRB, sub-frame connectors, wide-band O2.

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    the shop narrowed it down to a bad MAP sensor..seeming unusual that the sensor could just GO BAD after i worked on it i asked them to test the current of the wires before replacing to save the parts and labor if there is a bad/broken wire..they assured me the wires had been tested quote 350 w/ parts, diognostic manifold pressure test and labor..i agreed ..they called me today it was a single broke wire going to the MAP..so now i have a new MAP sensor for no reason and a 400 broke wire bill that i could have fixed in ten minutes...DAM

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by claytonr View Post
    the shop narrowed it down to a bad MAP sensor..seeming unusual that the sensor could just GO BAD after i worked on it i asked them to test the current of the wires before replacing to save the parts and labor if there is a bad/broken wire..they assured me the wires had been tested quote 350 w/ parts, diognostic manifold pressure test and labor..i agreed ..they called me today it was a single broke wire going to the MAP..so now i have a new MAP sensor for no reason and a 400 broke wire bill that i could have fixed in ten minutes...DAM
    I tell you freaking shops. Is hard to find honest decent people. They charged my grandmother $60 dollars to reset the oil change reminder light. I went back there and gave them hell. I was a long time costumer with them for tires but no more. The told me that takes like an hour to reset I told them thats BS it takes like 2 mins to do. I wish she told me about before she went there.

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    0106 has NEVER been a bad MAP sensor in my experience; the code simply indicates that the car is not in the proper MAP range at idle/cruise.

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