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Pacesetter y-pipe beating the hell outa' floorboard

This is a discussion on Pacesetter y-pipe beating the hell outa' floorboard within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; As yall know the factory y pipe is like, 1" tall and 4" wide and the pacesetter pipe is 3" ...

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    Member Whiteboycntdnce's Avatar
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    Pacesetter y-pipe beating the hell outa' floorboard

    As yall know the factory y pipe is like, 1" tall and 4" wide and the pacesetter pipe is 3" ... Even though it's flattened it's still beating the shit out of my floor board... what can I do to fix the problem? there's no room for adjustment, i was thinking about getting some header wrap and using it as a buffer.... what have some of yall done?

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    United States Marine Kamauxx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteboycntdnce View Post
    As yall know the factory y pipe is like, 1" tall and 4" wide and the pacesetter pipe is 3" ... Even though it's flattened it's still beating the shit out of my floor board... what can I do to fix the problem? there's no room for adjustment, i was thinking about getting some header wrap and using it as a buffer.... what have some of yall done?
    I don't have a problem with my x-pipe personally, but if I did I'd just put some coolant hose between the pipe and where it's hitting the car.

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    I put in prothane motor mouts and mine quite banging

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    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    heat up the pipe and bend it downwards, solved my problem with banging

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    Senior Member ss~zoso~ss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteboycntdnce View Post
    As yall know the factory y pipe is like, 1" tall and 4" wide and the pacesetter pipe is 3" ... Even though it's flattened it's still beating the shit out of my floor board... what can I do to fix the problem? there's no room for adjustment, i was thinking about getting some header wrap and using it as a buffer.... what have some of yall done?
    do u have both of the bolts in the bracket on the y pipe? cuz it was a bitch to get em both in on my car but as soon as a i got the other in it stopped banging, not i just have exhaust leaks , but whats that matter without cats

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Mine has the same issue,,,,there is no room for adjustment and the clearance designed into the system is simply not enough.

    I can't heat it to bend,,,it's so close to the floor it would simpy burn the paint right off the floor boards,,,thats not goona happen.

    Motor mounts won't cure mine,,,,as I already have a torque strap keeping the motor as still as I care too without too much vibration,,,,it has to move a little.

    Tried a poly trans mount to keep the trans from lifting up and making the entire system closer to the floor,,,,this didn't help,,,and in fact made it worse since the poly mount was 1/4 inch thicker (including supplied spacer of 1/8 inch) and put everything closer to the floor,,, Not to mention it now transfers more noise from the rear of the car right up into the interior,,,,not what I want.

    I have exhausted all the easy options listed above,,,with that said I am getting more drastic.

    My solution currently in process is taking a cutting wheel and cutting 2 slots in the Y-pipe on the driver side,,,one right behind the header flange,,,and the other after the bend. The slots are on the bottom of the pipe roughly 4 inches long. This allowed me to grab the pipe and pull down,,,in affect bending the pipe slightly and giving me much needed room.
    While it was held in place I mig welded the cuts back up to finish the job.

    Currently grinding the welds down to make the repair undetectable. Good news is,,,,I didn't use a torch and still have paint on my floor pans,,,,lol bad news is the welding burnt the aluminized coating that comes on the pipes,,,but a torch would have done that also. So I have to live with a small area on the driver side pipe with no coating.

    Test drive coming soon,,,,but as of right now,,,,I can foot brake the car in the garage and it's working fine,,,,,foot braking before would cause the pipe to vibrate on the floor,,,,,so far so good. Hope that helps.

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    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    fbj, grab a crobar, bend pipe downwards. it should work.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhraformula View Post
    fbj, grab a crobar, bend pipe downwards. it should work.
    I tried that,,,but probably didn't get aggressive enough,,,as I had this fear of tearing up the paint,,,but I had the car rocking on the lift pretty good before I decided to quit. I was even doing chin ups on the pipe If I had about 3 guys hanging off of it maybe we could have accomplished it,,,,lol.

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    I would try putting some coolant hose between the pipe and the floor board. Many people seem to do this and it works. I am glad my y-pipe doesn't bang at all. Good luck.

    2000 SS M6 #5445 - 13k miles
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28 View Post
    I would try putting some coolant hose between the pipe and the floor board. Many people seem to do this and it works. I am glad my y-pipe doesn't bang at all. Good luck.
    Ya I have heard that but don't like the idea of a piece of rubber wedged in between my floor pan and a hot exhaust pipe. Sounds like a potential fire hazzard or at the very least a melted peice of hose that makes a mess and stinks.

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    There's a bracket made specifically for this problem. I just ordered one from www.ws6store.com for $40.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Proper way to fix is have an exhaust shop make an "s" bend in the Y. Did this with my XS headers/TSP Y pipe.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    That looks like it would work,,,but those cuts and welds are a little too visible for me. What I did was more subtle and since I have ground the welds down,,,,my pipe still looks like one piece and modification is undetectable. I'm weird that way though.

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    I had to cut out a piece of my Y pipe and weld in a new piece that was bent down about an inch, i also put in the Mufflex "bump stop" and havent had a problem since.
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    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    I had this problem, the Prothanes did the trick though. I have a used Bumpstop sitting around if anybody is interested.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ss~zoso~ss View Post
    do u have both of the bolts in the bracket on the y pipe? cuz it was a bitch to get em both in on my car but as soon as a i got the other in it stopped banging, not i just have exhaust leaks , but whats that matter without cats
    Actually an exhaust leak can throw off your o2 readings.

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    United States Marine Kamauxx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoss 2000 z-28 View Post
    I had this problem, the Prothanes did the trick though. I have a used Bumpstop sitting around if anybody is interested.
    What's a bumpstop? I may be able to use it to put between my driver side pipe and the fuel lines so I can get my exhaust up another inch and a half.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cavpat View Post
    There's a bracket made specifically for this problem. I just ordered one from www.ws6store.com for $40.
    I used this bracket and it worked good, It only has a veryslight rattle once in a great while. When adjusting this bracket, get aggressive with the pry bar, I used a 36" one.

  19. #19
    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    When I had mine on it did a very good job. Just to give you guys an idea of how good it is, my driver side motor mount was hanging together by about an inch of material which allowed the motor to torque twist a good amount but regardless of this I had only a little rattle at low RPM's. After the Prothanes I had no problem but if you know your mounts are good the Bump Stop might be a good alternative to a more involved project such as cutting and welding, etc.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Loosen the exhaust all the way back to where it goes over the axle. You want to be able to twist that pipe that goes over the axle to change that angle. After it's loose twist the pipe going over the axle changing the angle to give you as much clearance as possible on both sides of the Y. After you feel good about the clearance wedge a couple pieces of wood between the floorboard and Y pipe where it's the closest. Tighten everything back down real good. Knock out the wood pieces and you're done.

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