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Thread: Opinions on LS6 install
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02-18-2013, 05:30 AM #1
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Bright Red- 1999 Formula
Opinions on LS6 install
When doing an LS6 intake manifold swap on a 98-00 car, what is the general consensus/individual opinion - try to shave the ribs on the bottom down to reuse the factory LS1 coolant lines or leave the ribs and get the LS6 cooland crossover and plugs?
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02-18-2013, 07:13 AM #2
I prefer to just get the LS6 coolant lines, they don't cost that much and are still available, so I never really understood the attraction of whacking/grinding the intake.
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02-21-2013, 08:01 AM #3
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black- 2000 Camaro SS
I think blocking off the rear lines is a bad idea. You want front/back temp equalized as much as possible, there's lots of reports of problems with overheating of the back cylinders.
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02-21-2013, 08:38 AM #4
GM has been doing it on everything since 2001 without a problem
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02-21-2013, 08:41 AM #5
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
This is one of those 50/50% for or against when it comes to opinions on if you do it or not. Both post are usually the answers that are giving.
I've done the LS6 coolant kit like FBJ talked about and have had no issues. I have a few buddies that I've put on their LS6 intakes and they choose to stay with the LS1 style of coolant tubes.
If you choose to knock off the fins do so carefully and use a dremil. Do not try to break off with pliers. Total time takes about 5-10 minutes.
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02-21-2013, 09:59 AM #6
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black- 2000 Camaro SS
It's possible to tie the front/back lines together with a hose going around the outside, not that I've done it, and maybe more trouble than it's worth.
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02-22-2013, 07:11 AM #7
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
I did the ls6 steam tubes and block offs and have had no overheating issues. I think if it was a problem GM wouldn't be doing it and they are doing it like FBJ said. I also wouldn't take a dremel to a plastic intake one mess up and you just broke your $300 intake when you could have just spent $60 on the ls6 steam tubes and rear block offs.
1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
(Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/
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02-22-2013, 07:33 AM #8
I've never heard of any overheat issues.
It's my understanding that these are simply steam tubes mainly to help remove air pockets in the cooling system, which would only occur when servicing the cooling system (flush/refill) which is why the inlet is mounted higher than the radiator. Once purged and the cooling system is sealed, I'm not so sure they serve any real purpose....
If you remember your LT1 days, GM simply installed little screw valves that you would crack open to purge the system during a flush/refill, one in or around the thermostat housing and there was also another one (position escapes me)
And if you go back further to the gen 1 engines, we simply squeeze radiator hoses with the cap removed to burb the systemLast edited by Firebirdjones; 02-22-2013 at 07:36 AM.
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