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Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

This is a discussion on Oil Pan Gasket Replacement within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Well it looks like I have a slight leak in my oil pan, towards the front of the engine. You ...

  1. #1
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

    Well it looks like I have a slight leak in my oil pan, towards the front of the engine. You can see where its seeping out between the block and pan, its not dripping but its wet.

    According to the shop manual, you have to raise the motor up and off the K-member to pull the oil pan and replace the gasket. Has anyone been able to change out the oil pan gasket without lifting the motor or unbolting the mounts?? I hate to practically pull the motor for a small leak in the pan gasket.

    Thanks.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 SGM
    Lid, Pro 5.0, WS6 Short Stick, LS7 Clutch, TB Bypass, Detroit TrueTrac, Poly Mounts, Bilstein Shocks, LS6 Intake, SFCs, CTS-V Brake Upgrade, STB, Nitto 555's. SS Longtube Headers and True Duals w/ H pipe and Magnaflows. Tuned by Harris Speed Works. 341.4WHP/346.1 lb/ft.

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    rique71
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    would like to know also

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    not enough room to pull the pan without lift the motor, or removing the k-member.

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    rique71
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    which is easier to do?

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Sure it's not just leaking where the timing cover meets the oil pan?

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dag711 View Post
    which is easier to do?

    both require holding the motor up.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Sure it's not just leaking where the timing cover meets the oil pan?
    Yep.

    Its dry from the timing cover down to the oil pan, and wet from the oil pan gasket on down, only in the front and one side though.

    That sucks that the motor needs to be lifted to get to it. Damn.

  8. #8
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    you could do the really cheap route. put silicone around where it leaks. clean it real good with carb cleaner, put a bead of silicone around it and there you go.

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    rique71
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    you could do the really cheap route. put silicone around where it leaks. clean it real good with carb cleaner, put a bead of silicone around it and there you go.
    i might try that

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Yep.

    Its dry from the timing cover down to the oil pan, and wet from the oil pan gasket on down, only in the front and one side though.

    That sucks that the motor needs to be lifted to get to it. Damn.
    That does suck. Do like ^^ said and try loosening the pan and cleaning/adding silicone. May be hard to get the surface clean enough to get the silicone to stick tho. I'd drain the oil and let the car sit a day or so before refilling and starting. Be carefull with the pan bolts in the front and back. They're smaller and I hear they break easy. Use a torque wrench. Good luck.

  11. #11
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    it's only the two long rear bolts. those are 109 in/lbs. rest are 18 ft/lbs.

  12. #12
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    you could do the really cheap route. put silicone around where it leaks. clean it real good with carb cleaner, put a bead of silicone around it and there you go.
    Good call. Permatex makes a gasket leak sealer that you can just spray on the outside of the gasket and its supposed to stop the leak. Probably some kind of silicone sealant like you said. I'll clean it up with some 3M Brake Cleaner and give that a shot maybe.

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