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Oil leak

This is a discussion on Oil leak within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ...

  1. #21
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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  2. #22
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Wow that's a serious leak. How is oil consumption?


    Depending on your skills you can do it in your garage. I've gotten so much practice I can pull my T56 in about an hr now.

    Shops vary in labor charges from place to place but it's about 4 hrs for dropping/installing the transmission, add another 1 to 1.5hr to install the rear main sell and align it properly. This takes longer then you think because you need to loosen and drop the oil pan some to loosen the rear cover. Avg shop rate is $60-$90/hr.

    TWO key important details that are often overlooked, forgotten or the shop is just to plan lazy to do. All 4 corners where the oil pan gasket meets the block and front/rear covers needs a dab of rtv. If not done you'll be having another leak(s). Also the 2 long rear oil pan bolts are torqued in inch lbs not ft lbs.


    Rear main gasket is about $10.
    Oil & Oil Filter

    Items the shop might suggest that gets down:
    New rear cover gasket - depends on how bad it is.
    pilot bearing - this one I would do.

  3. #23
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    I got a quote of 395 plus tax to change the Rear main seal. I don't think that's bad at all...

  4. #24
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    That's not bad, falls right about what I said labor per hour. $65-$70.

  5. #25
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    I asked if the rear main wasn't the problem, if he can fix whatever else it could be. He said he doesn't get into the engine part. The place is called continental transmission. So I really hope it is the main seal

  6. #26
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    It is that, the OPSU or the oil pan gasket. About your only choices for that area of the engine.

  7. #27
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    Hey guys. I am going to be doing this job with a mechanic I know. He has his own shop etc... I'm 18, and never really done tranny work and stuff. He is going to guide me through this. Anything I should be cautious of? And how long should this rear main seal take?

  8. #28
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    see post 22 above

  9. #29
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    I'm at work, and the mechanic looked at it and thinks the intake manifold is leaking the oil. . Is that possible

  10. #30
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    Nope. There is no oil (or coolant) that flows through the intake.

  11. #31
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    I thought there were passages

  12. #32
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    There is definitely coolant flowing through the intske

  13. #33
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    There are two (2) tubes that originate at the front of each head and coolant flows from there to the throttle body and then back to the radiator. It is possible that this is the source of your leak. The LS1 does not have a coolant crossover in the intake like the old school SBC.

  14. #34
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    I really just want to figure out what the exact is. And I'm getting steamed... lol. I would replace the intake if I knew for sure

  15. #35
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Oil leak

    no oil or coolant flows thru the intake like Jeff said.

    It couldn't hurt to take the intake off to see if it is leaking from the opsu.

    2 more areas it could be.

    1 If you still have the stock pcv it crosses over the back of the intake. They do crack from heat cycles. if it's bad enough it could be dripping oil.

    2- Valve cover gaskets are shot.

    3 The gasket that the pcv tube plugs into the valve covers are bad.

    That is about all you can check without dropping the transmission.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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  16. #36
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    This really sucks. I think I may try putting dye in the oil to see

  17. #37
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    If you were a bit closer, I'd take the ride up to diagnose this issue as I am curious.

  18. #38
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    That would have been awesome. About 160 miles!

  19. #39
    Junior Member Jonarin's Avatar
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    I took it to my other mechanic, got it on a lift today and cleaned everything up, and put dye in it. He said it was the rear main. He also said that me and him are going to do it next wednesday.

  20. #40
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Pick up a pilot bearing and do it while you there.

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