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Official link for my a4, i need help

This is a discussion on Official link for my a4, i need help within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; im an a4 and new at modding the ls1, maybe you experts can help me out with my list bc ...

  1. #1
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    Official link for my a4, i need help

    im an a4 and new at modding the ls1, maybe you experts can help me out with my list bc although i searched alot i want final imputs

    i have a lid and slp loudmouth exhaust, unknown rear end gears,

    i want to get first
    3500 stall (to big?) (note* this could be a while b4 i get to the cam package)
    tranny cooler
    3.73, or 4.11 what would be better for a good fuel mileage, kind of daily driver?
    2 spair rims
    2 mickey thompson drag radical tires

    then comming after this
    try to find some v6 rear springs
    subframe connecters
    long tube headers and ory
    cutout, manual or electronic
    SSRA setup

    then after that
    MAYBE an NX kit
    do i need bigger fuel injectors? i have a 99ls1
    bigger fuel pump

    Finally after that
    electric water pump
    underdrive pulleys (are they worth it?) i heard it makes it run bad..

    HEAD AND CAM
    i dont want a rough idle at all, so i want like a mild cam
    "Texas Speed 220/220 Camshaft, 220/220 .581/.581 1200-6200 RPM Power Band; This is an excellent performance camshaft with a smooth idle! Custom tuning for automatic cars required
    This camshaft typically gains approximately 30-35rwhp!"

    OR

    "The Texas Speed 228/228 .588/.588 1600-6300 RPM Power Band; This is an excellent performance camshaft with a smooth idle! Custom tuning for automatic cars required
    This camshaft typically gains approximately 40rwhp!"

    NO clue on what heads to get,


    again if you read this please put your input i need need to know what u guys know lol thanks again
    Last edited by 99Trans_Am; 03-05-2008 at 06:22 PM.

  2. #2
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    bump anyone? should i do the head/cam b4 the NX?

  3. #3
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    i would do,
    3500 stall (tame), shift kit, trans cooler and tuning
    leave rear alone

    try to find some v6 rear springs
    subframe connecters
    long tube headers and ory
    cutout, manual or electronic
    SSRA setup
    all of above is good

    MAYBE an NX kit
    do i need bigger fuel injectors? i have a 99ls1
    bigger fuel pump
    hold off, (i would)


    Finally after that
    electric water pump
    underdrive pulleys (are they worth it?) i heard it makes it run bad..
    neither get the ls6 intake instead

    "The Texas Speed 228/228 .588/.588 1600-6300 RPM Power Band; This is an excellent performance camshaft with a smooth idle! Custom tuning for automatic cars required
    This camshaft typically gains approximately 40rwhp!"
    above is one of the best street cams out there

    as for heads, read up on the different brands and see what kind of a budget you have
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

  4. #4
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    ya that sounds like a good start, i just hope to be in the 11s and then ill probably quit the moddin, do you think i can be there with the cam and first mods? i not the NX or water pump/underdrivepulleys etc.?
    i think it would be a stretch but i figure if i finish out the exhaust, get the tranny goin, maybe rear end, and cam it, i should be in the low 12s right? i mean the stall ive been hearin usually knocks off .5 in the quarter depending on what already modded..

  5. #5
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    does that stall suck though for everyday driving? i do have a 2nd car, but i dont want to be taking off at every light, every stopsign at like 3k rpms

  6. #6
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    with a 228 cam, headers, , 3500 stall, tuning and good tires you should be in the 11s if you get a good launch.

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    Member red99ws6's Avatar
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    u dont have to take off at 3k with the stall. you will just lug really bad from a stop if you dont get on it. not really that bad for a driver. will affect mpg though

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    ya i was filled by someone stall will work only when holding the breaks, but at like stopsigns and such itl still go as normal... right?

  9. #9
    3200 stall MINIMUM, preferrably a 3500-3600
    3.73 gears
    LS6 intake and underdrive pulley

    Skip the electric water pump. They're expensive and yield nearly nothing.

    The 220/220 cam is a bit small, and the 228/228 will have a noticable lope. The Thunder Racing 224/224 cam fits nicely in between, makes great power and although you can hear it, it is fairly tame.

    Sell the Loudmouth and buy a real exhaust, the kind with a muffler

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    3200 stall MINIMUM, preferrably a 3500-3600
    3.73 gears
    LS6 intake and underdrive pulley

    Skip the electric water pump. They're expensive and yield nearly nothing.

    The 220/220 cam is a bit small, and the 228/228 will have a noticable lope. The Thunder Racing 224/224 cam fits nicely in between, makes great power and although you can hear it, it is fairly tame.

    Sell the Loudmouth and buy a real exhaust, the kind with a muffler
    so the 228/228 is going to be bigger then the 224/224 right? is that how it works? i want good power with a smooth ride, i dont want any rough idles or nething like that

    ohh and id hate to sell this exhaust when i spent like 450 for it and the only other system that i like is the corsica or borla, and they are kinda expensive for something that i already had, plus i think they have the perfect exhaust sound level, they are quiet when i cruise and loud when i want it to be lol
    i think im gonna do a 3500 stall now, get 3.73 gears, and M/T drag radical tires. oh and a tranny cooler, but the ones i looked at are like 100 bucks, and someone said like 25$? can someone get me a link for directly for this tranny cooler that i need for my car?

  11. #11
    Member CJREX's Avatar
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    Gone:2001 Camaro SS #4846

    You might want to rethink the rear.

    Not so much the gears, the rear itself.

    If you have the power to run 11s, you have the power to grenade the stock 10 bolt with boring regularity.

    Save up and get a 12 bolt or 9 inch. Get your 3.73 gears then.

    Good Luck!

  12. #12
    With a 400rwhp automatic car the 10 bolt isn't too much of a concern. I've gone 10s on mine, with countless low 11 second passes. Just make sure you put in a solid pinion spacer and a quality rear girdle.

    Usually, the larger the duration numbers the rougher the idle. There are several other factors at play here, but that for the most part sums it up. The 228/228 cam will have a noticable idle with a decent amount of lope to it. The 224/224 cam will make good power and give just a hint of a lope on a 114 LSA. Just make sure you get the Thunder Racing 224 cam, and get it on a 114 LSA.

    Once you put on some headers and remove the cats, that Loudmouth is going to be obnoxiously horrible sounding. You WILL regret it!

    3500 stall? That would work, just make sure it's not a TCI. Yank or Precision Industries only.

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    how would i do a stall with a nitrous kit? i heard to set a window switch around 3k to about 5500, but if i get a 3500 stalll am i gonna be blowin spray at the starting line?!

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    not too sure why ppl hate the loudmouth exhaust personally i love it but i have slp headers and lm1s. the only problem i got with them is that the headers are really low. other than that i like a loud muscle car. but the headers make the car alot louder. but i kinda want to see what ppl have to say about 4.11s vs 3.73s because my next mod are gears but i am in the dark just like op on those sets
    Last edited by 00z28bubba; 03-15-2008 at 11:39 AM.

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    What is the advantage of the V6 springs? Thanks.

  16. #16
    Member GNICTRY's Avatar
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    i love my lt into my slp lm1. I am getting a built trans and putting a 3200 stall, probly fuddle and later on a texas 228 114lsa cam!

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by 99Trans_Am View Post
    how would i do a stall with a nitrous kit? i heard to set a window switch around 3k to about 5500, but if i get a 3500 stalll am i gonna be blowin spray at the starting line?!
    That's a loaded question. Whether or not you'll blow through the converter depends upon a lot of variables. Typically for nitrous you want a tighter converter, usually around 1000RPM tighter than what works optimally in a naturally aspirated setup. So on a modified 346 that sees a shift RPM of 6500RPM or more, a 3600-3800 nitrous converter works best. If you're shifting below 6500RPM on a 346, you'll want a tighter (lower stall) converter.

    jaykayseth - V6 rear springs are a cheap way to aid in weight transfer and get off the line quicker. It was common back before there were as many aftermarket options as there are now, and still somewhat common among the extremely low budget guys.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    That's a loaded question. Whether or not you'll blow through the converter depends upon a lot of variables. Typically for nitrous you want a tighter converter, usually around 1000RPM tighter than what works optimally in a naturally aspirated setup. So on a modified 346 that sees a shift RPM of 6500RPM or more, a 3600-3800 nitrous converter works best. If you're shifting below 6500RPM on a 346, you'll want a tighter (lower stall) converter.

    jaykayseth - V6 rear springs are a cheap way to aid in weight transfer and get off the line quicker. It was common back before there were as many aftermarket options as there are now, and still somewhat common among the extremely low budget guys.
    Thanks Marc & Good Luck 99 TA!

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