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OBX Racing headers!!!!!!!!!!

This is a discussion on OBX Racing headers!!!!!!!!!! within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hey guys, if anyone of you has a sound clip of this system, could you post it? Thank you....

  1. #41
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    Onyx Black
    2001 SS Camaro

    Hey guys, if anyone of you has a sound clip of this system, could you post it? Thank you.

  2. #42
    Member Jon7I2's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    99 Formula M6

    Quote Originally Posted by Rajun Cajun View Post
    Hey guys, if anyone of you has a sound clip of this system, could you post it? Thank you.
    2nd that

  3. #43
    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    Monterey Maroon Metalic
    2000 Z28

    Alright, I thought I was going to get my car done today but it's not happening. He promised it would be done tomorrow though. Also, he said that I should get a heat shield for the oil filter since it is very close to the resonator. What do you guys think about that? Should I get a heat shield for the oil filter? If so, where could I find one? If not, why not?

    As soon as I get it back, I'll make a video or three to let you guys hear it.

  4. #44
    Member Jon7I2's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    99 Formula M6

    I dont have a shield for my filter and have been daily driving my car w/ lt's since august w/ no problems of that sort.

  5. #45
    Member bealschad's Avatar
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    black
    1998 ws6 trans am

    $42.00 What the FUCK I only had to pay like $3.50 each samething you got. I would take them back.

  6. #46
    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    Monterey Maroon Metalic
    2000 Z28

    Quote Originally Posted by Jon7I2 View Post
    I dont have a shield for my filter and have been daily driving my car w/ lt's since august w/ no problems of that sort.
    I figured as much. The oil filters are built to handle great heat anyway. I'm not going to worry about it.

  7. #47
    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    Monterey Maroon Metalic
    2000 Z28

    Quote Originally Posted by bealschad View Post
    $42.00 What the FUCK I only had to pay like $3.50 each samething you got. I would take them back.
    I've searched the net for anything having that part number: "TTP 11556" and nothing is coming up. I'm sure it's a bogus part number and the guy is trying to hide the fact that he raped my wallet. Now that I have them I don't know if I'll ever get bored enough to go to Advance to see what the P# it really is. Right now I'm just wanting to get my car back. I just hope this thread will make it easier for the next guy who buys OBX headers.

  8. #48
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    just got mine today. they look to be pretty well built pieces. they have what looks like the "power cone" or whatever the merge inside the kooks header collectors are, and the merge inside the y pipe is nice also. as long as they install as nice as they look they're gonna be awesome headers.
    only real downfall i see is that they didn't come with donut gaskets or bolts for the header to resonator flanges like already stated and i wouldn't even waste my time trying the gaskets that come with them. i'm gonna take one of my headers around with me tomorrow to some of the suppliers that we get parts from to see about getting prices for donuts and stainless bolts. i don't really wanna put regualr bolts in that'll rust when my entire exhaust is stainless.

  9. #49
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    well after a few trips to different suppliers, i found that the part number that is a perfect fit for the gaskets is a Walker 31556. there were a few others that were a pretty close fit, but the taper was a little different. this one fits good because the curve of the cone on the resonator side. a lot of them were flat, but this one had the perfect curve. i spent a while making sure that i got a good fit because i don't wanna deal with a leak once i bolt these things up. they cost me about 7.35 bucks a pop with my discount. list on them was 17.23.

  10. #50
    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    Monterey Maroon Metalic
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallass View Post
    well after a few trips to different suppliers, i found that the part number that is a perfect fit for the gaskets is a Walker 31556. there were a few others that were a pretty close fit, but the taper was a little different. this one fits good because the curve of the cone on the resonator side. a lot of them were flat, but this one had the perfect curve. i spent a while making sure that i got a good fit because i don't wanna deal with a leak once i bolt these things up. they cost me about 7.35 bucks a pop with my discount. list on them was 17.23.
    Good call on the brand and part number, hallass. My invoice says: "TTP 1556" with a unit price of $17.93 so for two it was $36.86 and after taxes, etc: $42.24 so I guess I didn't get ripped on this specific gasket. Chad says he got his cheaper so I hope we can figure out specifically what brand and part number he got.

    I just got my car back today and it sounds MEAN as hell! The car sounds the exact opposite of stock.... If it wasn't so late I'd get out there and record some idle and revving clips. Maybe tomorrow before I go to work.

    If it makes a difference, I've not had the car tuned yet but here are some issues I'm having right now after the header install:

    1) I'm getting some big vibration from the driver side of the Y-pipe, sometimes it bumps the bottom of the floorboard. My exhaust guy says poly urethane motor mounts will fix this. What do you guys think?

    2) Under moderate throttle if I turn (like when making a right on red), my power steering cuts out and then comes back. I've not had this issue before the headers. My power steering resivoir is full by the way.

    Under light throttle when the vibration is at a minimum, the car runs very smooth and just chugs along effortlessly.

    Next up: MSD ignition wiring harness + heat shield sleeves, TUNE out AIR and EGR.

  11. #51
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    1) I'm getting some big vibration from the driver side of the Y-pipe, sometimes it bumps the bottom of the floorboard. My exhaust guy says poly urethane motor mounts will fix this. What do you guys think?

    The mount might help depending on how bad the originals are.

    Some guys install this bump stop.http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...&vid=3&pcid=54 It goes on the left side pipe after the header. It all depends on if thats your problem, cause it could just be not alligned right.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    1) I'm getting some big vibration from the driver side of the Y-pipe, sometimes it bumps the bottom of the floorboard. My exhaust guy says poly urethane motor mounts will fix this. What do you guys think?

    The mount might help depending on how bad the originals are.

    Some guys install this bump stop.http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...&vid=3&pcid=54 It goes on the left side pipe after the header. It all depends on if thats your problem, cause it could just be not alligned right.
    Wow, that looks exactly like what I need. I'll skip the motor mounts for now but I'd really like to get this thing on.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoss 2000 z-28 View Post
    Wow, that looks exactly like what I need. I'll skip the motor mounts for now but I'd really like to get this thing on.
    I would suggest motor mounts if you really need them. Bad mounts will cause your headers to loosen up and leak. It also puts undo stress on the exhaust creating cracks or premature breaks after a long period of time.

  14. #54
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    red
    1999 trans am convert

    Maybe the installer unhooked motor mount to jack up engine on one side and forgot to reconnect?I'v read on forums that this can be VERY hard to hook up.Or maybe jacked up w/o unhooking thus tearing apart mount? I mean ,if it wasn't broke before but is now, that sounds suspect,doesn't it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by edbird View Post
    Maybe the installer unhooked motor mount to jack up engine on one side and forgot to reconnect?I'v read on forums that this can be VERY hard to hook up.Or maybe jacked up w/o unhooking thus tearing apart mount? I mean ,if it wasn't broke before but is now, that sounds suspect,doesn't it?
    Well, with the factory exhaust, it had enough clearance. If one mount wasn't hooked up, the engine would be banging all over the place. Motor mounts are a pain in the ass, and their worse on an LT1!

  16. #56
    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    Monterey Maroon Metalic
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    I would suggest motor mounts if you really need them. Bad mounts will cause your headers to loosen up and leak. It also puts undo stress on the exhaust creating cracks or premature breaks after a long period of time.
    I've been driving it really carefully to minimize the shakes. Last night I ordered the Bump Stop. I am thinking that all the shaking is activating the knock sensor and cutting power intermitently. Does that sound right?

    If by whatever means (bump stop, motor mounts, transmission mounts, etc.) if I can stop all the shaking, will that stop the power cuts?

    By the way, I'm sorry I totally jacked this thread! All of the advice is helpful!

  17. #57
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    The exhaust rattling and bangin on the fllor board will set off the knock sensor. That is one of the main reasons Mufflex designed that piece. A tune is also going to help it run better.

  18. #58
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    I have the same rattle on the driver side. But i have SFC and the Y pipe it hitting them. But i hope you like them. I love mine.

  19. #59
    Member hoss 2000 z-28's Avatar
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    Monterey Maroon Metalic
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    Bumping Fixed

    Alright, I got the bump stop and installed it but the Y-pipe still shook a little bit. Today I got Prothane mounts installed. Turns out the mount on the driver side was nearly completely destroyed! With the new mounts on the engine barely moves at all and in the driver seat the car just feels SOLID, like it can take some abuse!

    I did make a sound clip of the headers but when I uploaded it to streetfire.net the clip would not play sound for some reason. It's a .MOV extension so I'm not sure if that has any compatability issues.

    Anyway, I'm happy as hell with the OBX headers and after all this mess I can highly recommend them.

  20. #60
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    yeah, put mine on last week. they slid right in like a dream. no casting tab issues, no k member issues, no nothing issues. they went in easier than the stockers came out actually. mine is ratting a little bit too, but i adjusted mine up as close as i could get it to the floor since i have sportlines on the car. i'd rather have a little bit of rattling than crush a brand new pair of headers. the only bitch i have about them at all is that the band clamp doesn't bite all the way and seal where the driver's part of the y pipe meets the actual "y" section so i have a little leak. i'm probably just gonna weld it to fix the problem though.
    as soon as it warms up a little bit more (freaking almost 80 yesterday and it's SNOWING right now!) i'll take the car out and get some video/soundclips of it.

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