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Need advise! First ls1 build!

This is a discussion on Need advise! First ls1 build! within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I recently bought a 2001 camaro coupe with an a4, ls1, power everything, and it completely stock minus a slp ...

  1. #1
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    Need advise! First ls1 build!

    I recently bought a 2001 camaro coupe with an a4, ls1, power everything, and it completely stock minus a slp lid. I want to turn it into a street/strip car with a budget. I've never messed with an ls1 before so everything I know about them was learned in the last 2 weeks. Here are my plans:
    -Fast 102mm intake and Tb
    -Texas speed PRC 227 heads
    -magic stick 4 cam w/ 111 lsa
    -performabuilt 4l60e
    -3800 stall
    -long tube headers
    -30lbs injectors
    -magnaflow catback
    -high flow MAF
    -4.11+ gears
    -weight reduction
    -suspension

    Those are only the parts I'm sure about but please tell me if I'm making a combination error because I would rather everything work together so I can make more power for less money. Also as far as the rear end goes, do I need to go fully built 9" with a 4 link or can I get away with subframe connectors on the stock 10 bolt until it breaks then replace it? And would it be worth converting the power windows to manual to save weight? Please fill in ALL of my gaps. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Can't comment on the engine internals... but I will say that I run the Performabuilt Level II in our car and love it. Your gear choice may be a little steep unless you are running larger diameter tires in the back. Do the math and check on your rpms at the top of the track. UMI is the way to go for your suspension pieces -- their stuff fits and works great. I run a full UMI setup including a tunnel mount torque arm. A bit noisy on the street but plants the car and has given me 1.6 second 60' times with essentially stock power under the hood. The rear will also need upgraded as I can't imagine it lasting long with the combo you have planned.

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    Can u give me details on your UMI setup? And what do u mean noisy? Clanking or like a bushing squeak?

  4. #4
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Our car is not lowered, so in the back I run non-adjustable UMI lower control arms, a panhard bar, and tunnel mount torque arm. I currently have 2 point subfraqme connectors, but a set of 3 point connectors should be at my office for me when I return home later this week. Up front I run a UMI tubular K-member and both the upper and lower control arms. Still running the stock sway bars for now.

    The front of the torque arm mounts where the stock tunnel brace was and includes a driveshaft loop. It seems to transmit noise from the rear directly into the passenger compartment, and when transitioning from reverse to forward, and over angled intersections with a change in grade, I get some minor clunking.

  5. #5
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I'll add that the injectors might need to bump a bit up with the FAST intake & CAM you picked out. You also need to look at a fuel pump form Racetronixs to handle to flow of fuel you need and keep the stock MAF. It's good to about 500HP, even guys with FI are still using the stock MAF. Add about $500-$700 for tuning.

    You will need to upgrade the rear.

    You have several options for the rear. Most recommended for an A4 is a 12 bolt, but you have 9", DANA 60 (Strange) and if you really want to have some fun build you a 8.8 (you'll have to fab it yourself)

    Moser
    Strange Engineering
    Mid-West Chassis & Performance

    all have good reps, the first two are priced the same and MWC is a little bit cheaper but just as good.


    Converting the windows to manual might save 5lbs at most (not worth it IMHO)



    One more very important thing - Breaks - when that power it would be a shame to end up in the wall because you can't stop.

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