my dex cool is 3 years old however only 15K miles?
This is a discussion on my dex cool is 3 years old however only 15K miles? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; And the easiest way to do that is to disconnect both heater hoses and just stick the garden hose in ...
05-17-2011, 03:14 PM #21
And the easiest way to do that is to disconnect both heater hoses and just stick the garden hose in one using normal water pressure. After it comes out clean stick the garden hose in the other one and backflush it until clean again.
05-17-2011, 04:43 PM #22
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
S-10 trucks/Blazers would have that problem. The coolant would turn real nasty whenever they got a bit low, and the heater core would clog. Backflushing them took care of many no/low heat problems, but I've never run into that with the LS1 F-bodies.
I flushed my OE dexcool after 5 years, and do it every 3 now. More than that for a wholly dexcool system is overkill, but certainly won't hurt anything.
05-21-2011, 06:09 AM #23
I hope there not bittle.
also these heater hoses are half metal half rubber
? when replacing LS1 heater hose is the metal tube cut then slide the new rubber over the metal?
I'm convinced there's a reason we'r we are paying high price for dex cool it lasts longer than the old stuff.
edit I have'nt changed my thremostate ever car has 115K miles. (bought car in jan-2001)
has anyone here rebuilt a threomstate.
like just reuse the LS1 housing and just replace the actualle thremostate?
lastly I'm concidering a 180 degree Threomstate however my car has been tuned for a 190 stock, ? will I ever see the 99 model guage move even a tiny bit?
Last edited by qwik219d9; 05-21-2011 at 06:14 AM.
05-22-2011, 06:10 AM #24
I bought OEM heater hoses and installed them. I was never a big fan of hacking the metal hoses and replacing the rubber portion. Just not how I do things, but if you are on a budget I guess it's possible.
Thermostats, although rarely fail, are considered wear items and should be replaced at every coolant flush. It's a preventive maintanance thing like most other parts on the car. Better safe than sorry.
Unfortunately that's one area these LS1's are not very friendly. Thermostats are made into the entire housing so it has to be replaced as a unit. That's a little costly at about ~$50 or so. Compared to a regular thermostat for about $5-$10 you can see what I mean.
I never leave the coolant in there more than a year. Annual flushes have become regular routine maintanance for me anymore whether the car is sitting or being driven. Keeps my systems cleaner that way without all the gunk buildup. It also stops electralosis which is what starts corrosion of the coolant system. This becomes even more important on a car with alot of aluminum parts (aka: LS1, radiator, water pump, etc....)
If it makes you feel better, they make coolant system testing kits that you can check your coolant with. It tells you how much electralosis you have and you'll know when it reaches unsafe levels. That's what I recommend before you determine how long you want to go on antifreeze. They used to be little dunk sticks that changed colors, not sure what's out there now. A simple test, and you might find that 3 years is too long.
05-22-2011, 06:20 AM #25
can you share a detailed write up on the power steering pump swap.
I have never done this swap and am not 100% sure. I do have a recent thread on I believe my power steering pump is going south. lot's of good info however I still have a few concerns.
I was planning the metal conveluted tubing w/ the rubber ends sold at Jegs
or maybe just rubber tubing.
Last edited by qwik219d9; 05-22-2011 at 06:26 AM.
05-22-2011, 06:29 AM #26
I bought OEM ACdelco lines, I think they were around $100.
05-22-2011, 07:23 AM #27
The heater hose assembly is around $100 to $150. If you are in a budget you can follow this write up i did:
Water heater hose assembly
I did this 4 months ago and i just had a small leak but if was controlled by adjusting my band clamps some more.
Regarding the PS pump. you need a PS pump pulley puller. You can rent that tool. Start by taking your belt off and disconnecting your battery(safety). lift the car up some and put it on stands. Drain the reservoir by using a syringe and some plactic tubing at the end. you can use a cooking baster. The object is to get as much to the reservoir fluid by sucking it out from the top.
put some rags on top of the alternator to protect it from PS fluid leaking. Disconnect the PS fluid return hose and allow some more to drain. You dont have to disconnect them at the rack and pinion unless they are leaking.
using the PS pulley tool pull the PS pulley off. Disconnect the high the pressure hose on the side of the pump. You will see that the pump has 3 bolts (or 2 I cant remember) that hold the pump in place, remove those.
At this point the PS pump comes out. Inspect the oring in the high pressure hose if it looks old replace it with a new one. If the hose looks bad and has cracks replace the whole hose.
Instalation is reversal. this is optional but if you want to flush the PS system then follow this. At the rack and pinion there is 2 connections of tubing to it. Disconnect those be ready for some fluid to come out. get in the car and move the steering wheel from left to right all the way. this will drain the rack and pinion so make sure you put rags or pans on the floor. once you get the fluid out reconnect the tubing back. if you have a PS cooler make sure that you blow some air in the hose to get the fluid out.
Reinstall the hoses back. install the pulley back with a pulley installer tool, keep an eye on how far it needs to go or the belt will come off. if you go back too far no biggie just use the puller again and pull back some. Fill the reservoir with fluid, put belt back, connect battery and dont forget the rags on top of the alternator. turn the car on and slowly turn your wheel from left to right fully. check the fluid level and add some more if needed. lower the car. again turn wheel from left to right. check fluid again and add if necessary. check for leaks. drive the car around and let it get warm. If you see foaming in the fluidits is normal, just let it sit for a while until the foam dissolves and continue the process. recheck for leaks and fluid level.
those hoses at jegs are expensive. if you are going that route just do regular heater hose and use cable ties to secure it. for that amount of money you can buy the new OEM assembly for a few more bucks.
Last edited by JayTA98; 05-22-2011 at 07:41 AM.
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