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my dex cool is 3 years old however only 15K miles?

This is a discussion on my dex cool is 3 years old however only 15K miles? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; And the easiest way to do that is to disconnect both heater hoses and just stick the garden hose in ...

  1. #21
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    And the easiest way to do that is to disconnect both heater hoses and just stick the garden hose in one using normal water pressure. After it comes out clean stick the garden hose in the other one and backflush it until clean again.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    S-10 trucks/Blazers would have that problem. The coolant would turn real nasty whenever they got a bit low, and the heater core would clog. Backflushing them took care of many no/low heat problems, but I've never run into that with the LS1 F-bodies.

    I flushed my OE dexcool after 5 years, and do it every 3 now. More than that for a wholly dexcool system is overkill, but certainly won't hurt anything.

  3. #23
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Just had a thought, if your going to be tearing everything apart, I would consider flushing the heater core as well. If your unhappy with heat temp.

    Did this to the jeep, using some hose connections and it improved the heat slightly. I was quite amazed what came out that didn't with the usual flush.
    I thought when the heater was turned on wide open that the heater core gets flushed during the regular flushing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    And the easiest way to do that is to disconnect both heater hoses and just stick the garden hose in one using normal water pressure. After it comes out clean stick the garden hose in the other one and backflush it until clean again.
    these heater hoses have never been removed
    I hope there not bittle.
    also these heater hoses are half metal half rubber
    ? when replacing LS1 heater hose is the metal tube cut then slide the new rubber over the metal?

    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    S-10 trucks/Blazers would have that problem. The coolant would turn real nasty whenever they got a bit low, and the heater core would clog. Backflushing them took care of many no/low heat problems, but I've never run into that with the LS1 F-bodies.

    I flushed my OE dexcool after 5 years, and do it every 3 now. More than that for a wholly dexcool system is overkill, but certainly won't hurt anything.
    I'm w/ you on leaving the new modern Dex cool in for a while.

    I'm convinced there's a reason we'r we are paying high price for dex cool it lasts longer than the old stuff.

    edit I have'nt changed my thremostate ever car has 115K miles. (bought car in jan-2001)
    has anyone here rebuilt a threomstate.
    like just reuse the LS1 housing and just replace the actualle thremostate?

    lastly I'm concidering a 180 degree Threomstate however my car has been tuned for a 190 stock, ? will I ever see the 99 model guage move even a tiny bit?

    Thanks
    Last edited by qwik219d9; 05-21-2011 at 07:14 AM.

  4. #24
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwik219d9 View Post
    these heater hoses have never been removed
    I hope there not bittle.
    also these heater hoses are half metal half rubber
    ? when replacing LS1 heater hose is the metal tube cut then slide the new rubber over the metal?

    I'm w/ you on leaving the new modern Dex cool in for a while.

    I'm convinced there's a reason we'r we are paying high price for dex cool it lasts longer than the old stuff.

    edit I have'nt changed my thremostate ever car has 115K miles. (bought car in jan-2001)
    has anyone here rebuilt a threomstate.
    like just reuse the LS1 housing and just replace the actualle thremostate?

    lastly I'm concidering a 180 degree Threomstate however my car has been tuned for a 190 stock, ? will I ever see the 99 model guage move even a tiny bit?

    Thanks

    I bought OEM heater hoses and installed them. I was never a big fan of hacking the metal hoses and replacing the rubber portion. Just not how I do things, but if you are on a budget I guess it's possible.

    Thermostats, although rarely fail, are considered wear items and should be replaced at every coolant flush. It's a preventive maintanance thing like most other parts on the car. Better safe than sorry.
    Unfortunately that's one area these LS1's are not very friendly. Thermostats are made into the entire housing so it has to be replaced as a unit. That's a little costly at about ~$50 or so. Compared to a regular thermostat for about $5-$10 you can see what I mean.

    I never leave the coolant in there more than a year. Annual flushes have become regular routine maintanance for me anymore whether the car is sitting or being driven. Keeps my systems cleaner that way without all the gunk buildup. It also stops electralosis which is what starts corrosion of the coolant system. This becomes even more important on a car with alot of aluminum parts (aka: LS1, radiator, water pump, etc....)

    If it makes you feel better, they make coolant system testing kits that you can check your coolant with. It tells you how much electralosis you have and you'll know when it reaches unsafe levels. That's what I recommend before you determine how long you want to go on antifreeze. They used to be little dunk sticks that changed colors, not sure what's out there now. A simple test, and you might find that 3 years is too long.

  5. #25
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    well to really get rid of all the old fluid you need to take out the engine block drains. There is one behind the alternator against the block. Is a big allen socket ( i think is 19mm). The other one is on top of the starter. You can see it between the starter and the block. for that one you need a 6 inch long 5/16 allen socket. Remove the Tstat from its housing and reinstall the housing back. Turn your a/c all the way to hot so the coolant inside the heater core flushes out too. once you drain all the fluid put the plugs back and close the radiator drain. fill with water and run the engine for a few minutes. turn it off and drain everything again. Repeat until the water comes clear. when done put some teflon paste on the block plug treads and reinstall the tstat. Fill the car with new coolant 50/50 mix. Run the car withou the radiator cap and keep an eye for the fliud to go down when the tstat opens. add fluid as needed and keep checking the fliud level for a few days. Remove the coolant reservoir tank(underneath the battery) and rinse it out. Refill the reservoir to proper level.
    Jay w/ details like this you either have a shop manuel or excellent knowlegde.
    can you share a detailed write up on the power steering pump swap.

    I have never done this swap and am not 100% sure. I do have a recent thread on I believe my power steering pump is going south. lot's of good info however I still have a few concerns.

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I bought OEM heater hoses and installed them. I was never a big fan of hacking the metal hoses and replacing the rubber portion. Just not how I do things, but if you are on a budget I guess it's possible.

    Thermostats, although rarely fail, are considered wear items and should be replaced at every coolant flush. It's a preventive maintanance thing like most other parts on the car. Better safe than sorry.
    Unfortunately that's one area these LS1's are not very friendly. Thermostats are made into the entire housing so it has to be replaced as a unit. That's a little costly at about ~$50 or so. Compared to a regular thermostat for about $5-$10 you can see what I mean.

    I never leave the coolant in there more than a year. Annual flushes have become regular routine maintanance for me anymore whether the car is sitting or being driven. Keeps my systems cleaner that way without all the gunk buildup. It also stops electralosis which is what starts corrosion of the coolant system. This becomes even more important on a car with alot of aluminum parts (aka: LS1, radiator, water pump, etc....)

    If it makes you feel better, they make coolant system testing kits that you can check your coolant with. It tells you how much electralosis you have and you'll know when it reaches unsafe levels. That's what I recommend before you determine how long you want to go on antifreeze. They used to be little dunk sticks that changed colors, not sure what's out there now. A simple test, and you might find that 3 years is too long.
    how much did you have to give for the metal heater hose lines?

    I was planning the metal conveluted tubing w/ the rubber ends sold at Jegs
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Wysco/938/WA7309/10002/-1

    or maybe just rubber tubing.
    Last edited by qwik219d9; 05-22-2011 at 07:26 AM.

  6. #26
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I bought OEM ACdelco lines, I think they were around $100.

  7. #27
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwik219d9 View Post
    Jay w/ details like this you either have a shop manuel or excellent knowlegde.
    can you share a detailed write up on the power steering pump swap.

    I have never done this swap and am not 100% sure. I do have a recent thread on I believe my power steering pump is going south. lot's of good info however I still have a few concerns.

    how much did you have to give for the metal heater hose lines?

    I was planning the metal conveluted tubing w/ the rubber ends sold at Jegs
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Wysco/938/WA7309/10002/-1

    or maybe just rubber tubing.
    thanks for the compliment. I don't have a shop manual...yet. alot of my experience had come from years of reading and trying to tackle stuff. This site has help me alot. lots excellent people that are willing to help and share their knowledge.

    The heater hose assembly is around $100 to $150. If you are in a budget you can follow this write up i did:

    Water heater hose assembly

    I did this 4 months ago and i just had a small leak but if was controlled by adjusting my band clamps some more.

    Regarding the PS pump. you need a PS pump pulley puller. You can rent that tool. Start by taking your belt off and disconnecting your battery(safety). lift the car up some and put it on stands. Drain the reservoir by using a syringe and some plactic tubing at the end. you can use a cooking baster. The object is to get as much to the reservoir fluid by sucking it out from the top.

    put some rags on top of the alternator to protect it from PS fluid leaking. Disconnect the PS fluid return hose and allow some more to drain. You dont have to disconnect them at the rack and pinion unless they are leaking.

    using the PS pulley tool pull the PS pulley off. Disconnect the high the pressure hose on the side of the pump. You will see that the pump has 3 bolts (or 2 I cant remember) that hold the pump in place, remove those.

    At this point the PS pump comes out. Inspect the oring in the high pressure hose if it looks old replace it with a new one. If the hose looks bad and has cracks replace the whole hose.

    Instalation is reversal. this is optional but if you want to flush the PS system then follow this. At the rack and pinion there is 2 connections of tubing to it. Disconnect those be ready for some fluid to come out. get in the car and move the steering wheel from left to right all the way. this will drain the rack and pinion so make sure you put rags or pans on the floor. once you get the fluid out reconnect the tubing back. if you have a PS cooler make sure that you blow some air in the hose to get the fluid out.

    Reinstall the hoses back. install the pulley back with a pulley installer tool, keep an eye on how far it needs to go or the belt will come off. if you go back too far no biggie just use the puller again and pull back some. Fill the reservoir with fluid, put belt back, connect battery and dont forget the rags on top of the alternator. turn the car on and slowly turn your wheel from left to right fully. check the fluid level and add some more if needed. lower the car. again turn wheel from left to right. check fluid again and add if necessary. check for leaks. drive the car around and let it get warm. If you see foaming in the fluidits is normal, just let it sit for a while until the foam dissolves and continue the process. recheck for leaks and fluid level.

    those hoses at jegs are expensive. if you are going that route just do regular heater hose and use cable ties to secure it. for that amount of money you can buy the new OEM assembly for a few more bucks.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 05-22-2011 at 08:41 AM.

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