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Thread: motor mounts
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05-17-2010, 04:01 PM #1
motor mounts
guys please help my with some info !!!!!!!!!!!
im doing the headers and intake what is the easiest way to do the motor mounts???????
i really dont wanna have to drop the motor and front end out of the car
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05-17-2010, 04:56 PM #2
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- Manitoba
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- 139
blue- 1998 Trans Am ls1
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05-17-2010, 09:40 PM #3
Relax. There are four bolts that mount to the subframe, unbolt those 4 on each side (total 8) and jack the motor up. this will give you enough room the put in the headers.
STEPS
1. place a sturdy peice of wood on the jack point. (I used a thick peice of wood that I normally use to place behind the wheel so the car doesn't roll)
2. I jacked it up to the motor where it's just touching. I lifted from the front of the oil pan but the wood I was using was bigger than the width of the pan, otherwise do not use this point to lift from.
3. Unbolt those mounts that I was talking about. Place aside in same order you took them off (Just something I do, they're all the same size)
4. put headers in.
5. before you ease the motor down, start the bolts by hand. Make sure all of them thread in a decent amount.
6. With the mounts touching the subframe completely, retighten all of the bolts as hard as you can. Try to tighten with a 1/2" drive ratchet. (It's too hard to get a torque wrench down there)
7. Done with that. Continue on with youre project.
That's what I did. The motor will get pretty close to the top of the engine bay but it'll be okay.
Anyone else feel free to come in with mistakes or different/ better methods.
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05-18-2010, 06:02 AM #4
Sounds like he WANTS to change the motor mounts tho.
Removal of the alternator may be necessary.
Do ya have access to a lift to get the car up, or are ya working off of ramps?
Doin' it on the ground, or from ramps would suck, ..., but people have done it.
I'd highly recommend a lift to work from under the car.
You tried the search & it helped? Hmmm, ...
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05-18-2010, 09:20 AM #5
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Staten Island, NY
- Posts
- 258
2007 Cadillac Escalade- 98 Camaro SS, 09 G8 GT
I did mine with the car on jackstands and with a cherry picker. Remove both manifolds and y pipe from the car (your doing headers anyway so they need to come out regardless). I removed the coilpack brackets with the coil packs attached for some extra room. I put 2 header bolts in the car (one of the center bolts and one in the front) and left only 1/4 in sticking out. I had the cherrypicker on the opposite end I was working on with the arm hanging over the manifold. I used a ratchet strap with hooks on both sides (the straps are rated to 1k lbs) and put a hook around each header bolt. I then attached the strap to the hook on the arm of the cherry picker and started to lift alittle bit until all the slack was out of the strap. I then pumped once more so it started to take pressure off the long bolt that runs through the clamshell. I then removed the 4 bolts holding the mount to the K member. Once they were off I jacked up the motor more so I could reach the clamshell bolts easier. I removed the 4 clamshell bolts and pulled the entire mount out in one piece. You have to now remove the long bolt so you can seperate the clamshell from the arm it sits in. You'll have to drill out 5 rivets in the clamshell to remove the old mount. I went with poly mounts and the came with new bolts to put the clamshell back together. Now, I reattached just the clamshell to the motor. Then I bolted the arm back in. Since your doing headers, here's a tip. Your going to want to put the long bolt that goes through the arm and the clamshell in opposite of the way you took it out (reverse the bolt). This will give you more clearance with the headers. So just line it up (helps if you have someone there with you), put the bolt back in and do the same thing on the other side. Also, when doing the driver side motor mount, I removed the intermediate steering shaft (I don't know if you can do it while it's in the car but I think it needs to come out anyway to install the headers). If you have any other questions, you can PM me.
Last edited by Deezl SS; 05-19-2010 at 05:52 AM.
1998 Sebring Silver Camaro SS Convertible
Cammed, Geared, Stalled and soon to be blown via F1-C
2009 Stryker Blue Pontiac G8 GT
Kook's 1 7/8's LTH's and catted X, Pypes A/B, Vararam, Tune
2007 Black Raven Cadillac Escalade
Vararam, Leveling Kit, 33's
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05-18-2010, 12:14 PM #6
Thanx for the info guys.... I'm doing it on Jack stands cause the shop I was going to use the lift at fell throu someone fucked it up for everyone. So I will be doing my intake,vally cover,headers,clutch,motor mounts , and tick adjustable clutch master all on Jack stands.....yippi.
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05-18-2010, 02:42 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
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- texas
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- 1,623
silver- 2000 formula
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05-18-2010, 08:13 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Location
- Rochester, NY Rochesterracing.com
- Posts
- 1,276
- 2000 Camaro B4C
how hard is it to do mounts with headers on? My buddy said he did it but it seems like a pita to do
2000 B4C Special Service Package Z28 - Kooks 1&7/8 Stepped 2'' - TSP Torquer V.2 - FAST 92/92 - BDR 4000 Conveter - Xtreme Trans Stage II - Full UMI Suspension - Pacesetter LT's - Comp Drag Shocks - Magnaflow - Cutout - ZO6 MAF - FTP LID - Street Tuned -
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05-18-2010, 11:00 PM #9
Just the alternator is annoying. Should be simple after that
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