Might Need a new Radiator - Overheating!
This is a discussion on Might Need a new Radiator - Overheating! within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I din't even know the temp guage worked on 1999 and up f bods ? mine never moves !...
08-01-2006, 08:59 AM #21
I din't even know the temp guage worked on 1999 and up f bods ?
mine never moves !
08-03-2006, 04:23 PM #22
- Join Date
- May 2006
- 2000 camaro ss
i put in the 160 thermo, what is the easiest programmer to use for my 2000 ss???
08-03-2006, 05:14 PM #23
- Join Date
- Aug 1999
- San Diego, Ca
- 383 Procharged & N20 Vert
Just for that? Find a used HyperTech programmer
08-19-2006, 10:19 PM #24
Still Acting Funky...
The other day I got home with about 235 showing on the temp gage, I let shut it down and waited about 3 minutes, checked the overflow and it was right on "full hot" and after a few hours it was down to "full cold" and the radiator was full.
I don't think it's kicking out any fluid (as if it was "REALLY" overheating), I think it is an air pocket, but I CAN'T GET RID OF IT. I have let it run at idle until it starts to circulate and there is no room to add fluid and the levels stay just right.
This is bugging the crap out of me. I wish the magic mechanic fairy would smack that sucker with her wand and make it work the way it's supposed to.
08-25-2006, 04:26 PM #25
Anyone have any tricks in getting the air out of the system (other than what has been suggested so far)?Black 2002 SS
SLP Airbox Lid, K&N Filter, Flowmaster Exhaust
CDT Speakers + Sub
09-12-2007, 08:42 PM #26
replace the gage / sensor. if the car isnt acting like its overheating, then it isnt over heating, right? the gage may be telling you that it is, but if youre not getting overflow and all the overheating signs then maybe it isnt actually overheating. only other thing i didnt see mentioned was to maybe check the water pump? ide check those things before u go and buy a radiator. only way that radiator could be bad is if alot of the fins are bent up real bad preventing air from flowing through it, or if it had some blockage in one of the tubes or something, and you would know real quick if that was the case. they very rarely just go bad. all a radiator is behind those fins are rows of tubing that snake back and forth. they go back and forth across the length of the radiator untill it eventually reaches the end and circulates back through the engine. nothing more. all that radiator does is circulate your coolant thru those tubes while the fins direct cool air around the tubes, slightly cooling the coolant before it re-enters the engine block.
09-12-2007, 08:55 PM #27
the easiest way to get rid of the air pockets is to disconect one of the houses that go to the throtle body and fill the radiator until water starts coming out ot the throtle body house (the ones you use for the TB bypas mod) this should get rid of the air pockets.2002 Z28 Auto (3.23 gears)
Lid, UD pulley, Shift Kit, 160 Thermo, Y-pipe, Panhard, TB bypass, Bellow, K&N, Strut Brace, Flowmaster, weight reduction.
09-12-2007, 09:25 PM #28
Running a lean fuel/air ratio or having retarded timing can also cause a car to overheat or run hot. I am not shure how the CPU moniters and adujusts this though.
07-10-2010, 12:42 PM #29
old thread, but Big Frog, did you get it fixed? Having a similar problem. I think its air in my system because it got low in my overflow. Almost 3 years on my swap and never had a problem before that.02 SS LS1, Tremec 6spd, Hurst shifter, Aubrn 3.42, KYB 3ways up front, Bilstein out back, Eibach Prokit, Spohn Adj. Torque Arm, Lakewood Subframe connectors, Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace, AeroMotive AFPR, Walbro 255lph, GTO K&N Cold Air, 3inch exhaust, flowmaster, 02 WS6 Seats, 17" 35th SSrims
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