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LS6 intake cracked!!

This is a discussion on LS6 intake cracked!! within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I bought a used LS6 intake from a 2004 Corvette to put on my LS1 Camaro. There is a smal ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member yosteff's Avatar
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    Cool LS6 intake cracked!!

    I bought a used LS6 intake from a 2004 Corvette to put on my LS1 Camaro.
    There is a smal crack in the rear of the Corvette intake ( look like somting rubed on it for some time).
    I want to repaire it but i dont know how or with what.
    Any tips to how to repaired Plastic intake??

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    they usually crack them trying to get the map sensor out.....you may be able to plastic weld or epoxy it depending on how big/bad it is.

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    How about a pic?

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    Junior Member yosteff's Avatar
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    yeah ..working on that..

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    Junior Member yosteff's Avatar
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    Damn photobucket..the pics are way to small to see anything!!
    So check here on my cardomain page.

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/252827...-camaro/page-6
    The crack is in the rear of the intake.

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    MEMBER 5150's Avatar
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    I would use jb weld the quick set stuff. Make sure the surface is clean no oil film or anything like that.I'd also scuff up the surrounding area with some 100 grit sand paper to help the jb weld bite better. With the JB weld you shouldn't ever have to worry about it again. Good luck!
    Lt's,SFC,3,600 Fuddle stall,Spohn Adj. tunnel mount torque arm, BMR LCA,Ls6 intake,Air lid,Under drive pulley,S60 rear,Frost tune and a few more things I cant remember.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I can tell you what worries me about using epoxy or jbweld on it.....you gotta make sure that shit doesn't get sucked into the motor. I would probably make a small patch to go over that and epoxy around the patch. The worst your looking at there is a leak and it removes the chances of it sucking something into the motor.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    I wouldnt use jb weld we did it on a friend intake and while the crack was 4-5 inches long it wasnt as big as that and within a week the jb weld had cracked and fallen off. I'd go with some type of plastic weld thats made to expand and contract with the intake along with take the vibration of the motor.

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    $ 25,000 panty dropper VENOMOUS's Avatar
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    3M makes a product called Duramix for repair of plastic parts in the automotve collision repair industry. There are two formulas, one for soft, flexible plastic, and the other for hard, rigid plastics. Try your local automotive paint shop and they should know what I am talking about. It does require a $300 gun to use it with, but being a 2 part product you can simply push an equal amount of each onto a piece of cardboard and mix, then apply. This stuff sets in about a minute so you don't have much time to mix and spread.

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    MEMBER 5150's Avatar
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    I've used jb weld on countless things over the years. It never failed but I guess if u mix it wrong and or don't prep the surface right anything can happen. If u want 100% guarantee that it's not going to leak get one thats not damaged. 

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    Junior Member yosteff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5150 View Post
    I've used jb weld on countless things over the years. It never failed but I guess if u mix it wrong and or don't prep the surface right anything can happen. If u want 100% guarantee that it's not going to leak get one thats not damaged. 
    I am in The French part of CANADA and we dont have a multitude of place to get cheap used part. so i was able to locate that one and pay only 50$ for with the injector and fuel rail...
    cant beat that!!

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    just fmi what caused said crack/hole?

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    Junior Member yosteff's Avatar
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    Git the intake from a guy who bought the corvette engine from the junk yard... look like something rube on it until it crack!!

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    Hello I was browsing and I ran across this thread. What I did was weld a patch on top of a hole in my SLP LS6 manifold. I used the broken off piece and a soldering iron to weld it on. Then I used JB weld to cover the patched area.
    I think you can just run a soldering iron to melt together the crack and then cover with JB weld




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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    The crack below the bigger one needs attention too. That's looking to be alot of repair. I would almost looking into fiberglassing the whole back side of it. I know there's a product made specifically for plastic, but I can't recall what it was called. No matter what product you use, I would make sure it's rated for higher temperatures and plastics. Like mentioned before, preparation is critical.

    Here's that other crack I was talking about:

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    The crack below the bigger one needs attention too. That's looking to be alot of repair. I would almost looking into fiberglassing the whole back side of it. I know there's a product made specifically for plastic, but I can't recall what it was called. No matter what product you use, I would make sure it's rated for higher temperatures and plastics. Like mentioned before, preparation is critical.

    Here's that other crack I was talking about:
    Click for full size
    looking at that picture again the gouge in the intake makes me think they did that pulling the motor from the top I bet.

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    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I can tell you what worries me about using epoxy or jbweld on it.....you gotta make sure that shit doesn't get sucked into the motor. I would probably make a small patch to go over that and epoxy around the patch. The worst your looking at there is a leak and it removes the chances of it sucking something into the motor.


    I didn't read all the replies but the last thing you want to do is blow the motor due to trying to patch something with a metal hardener! Metal sucked in = mass destruction unless very very lucky. Hope you get it all worked out OP

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    Junior Member yosteff's Avatar
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    Yep i have to found the right product.. dinth have time to get at it yet but will post some pics when it is done.. thanks guys for your help!!

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    You might have to drill a little hole at the ends of the crack to stop it from cracking futher. Once the end of the crack hits that round hole it don't know which way to go. I have also had very good luck with a soldering iron and black plactic tie wraps. They seem to be made out of the type of plastic. On a crack like you've got you might have to grind a grove in the crack so it so its a stronger bond.
    TSP 347 SB, TSP Stage 2.5 PRC LS6, TSP MS4, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E, Yank PT4000, 4.11s, Fast 90/90, FTRA Cold air intake+all the free mods, Dynatech Supermaxx Exaust System, DMH Cutouts, Hooker Catback/FTRA Tips. Tuned by RPM/Garner NC. 11.28@119

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    Junior Member timowen1's Avatar
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    just curious

    I only skimmed all the posts on this thread so I may have missed something.
    Did you buy this thing with the crack or was it sold to you without you knowing about the crack? I would not use it. Parts may be hard to find but this thing is broken and always will be. You may be able to patch it and it may work but for how long? What will happen if it comes apart at 5,000 rpm?
    If you got scammed I'd fight it and try to get my money back.

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