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Ls6 intake

This is a discussion on Ls6 intake within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Just purchased a ls6 intake manifold for my 00 z28. To avoid further setbacks on the install, what all do ...

  1. #1
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Ls6 intake

    Just purchased a ls6 intake manifold for my 00 z28. To avoid further setbacks on the install, what all do I need for the swap?

    I've seen coolant lines but not 100% sure on what to order.

    I'd also like to do the ls6 valley cover but I'm not all that comfortable shaving my block. What are the opinions on that?

    LS6 Intake, LS6 VCT, E^2 Catch Can, Hooker LTs and ORY, Magnaflow Cat-Back, 3" QTP electric cutout, UMI adj LCA, PHB, 3 pt SFCs, STB, MGW Shifter, SLP lid and bellow, Free-Mods, Tuned by BlueCat


  2. #2
    The Generals Finest Deviant LS1's Avatar
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    You need the LS6 coolant line and block offs. Or you could break off the ribs on the underside of the intake to clear the LS1 coolant lines. The LS6 valley cover only requires three cuts with a die grinder to get a small piece of material out.

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    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deviant LS1 View Post
    You need the LS6 coolant line and block offs. Or you could break off the ribs on the underside of the intake to clear the LS1 coolant lines. The LS6 valley cover only requires three cuts with a die grinder to get a small piece of material out.
    Thanks. Where could I get the said hoses and block offs? If it's not too difficult, I'll tackle it myself. Just the sound of it was pushing me away.

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    some of our sponsors carry them, I'm pretty sure its on either texas speed or kentucky speed

    From my understanding, with an LS6 intake, the valley cover is pointless....but I could be wrong.

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    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spikito View Post
    some of our sponsors carry them, I'm pretty sure its on either texas speed or kentucky speed

    From my understanding, with an LS6 intake, the valley cover is pointless....but I could be wrong.
    Thanks I'll look around for them. I hadn't heard that because swapping the intakes still uses the ls1 pcv, where the ls6 valley cover would have the internal pcv. That's why I was wanting to change. Maybe I'm wrong, and please correct me if I am so I dont spend the $ on the valley cover
    Last edited by derekbuckner1; 09-26-2011 at 08:58 AM.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Here are the part numbers that I used to get mine from gmpartsdirect.com


    Coolant Pipe Part# 12602544
    Rear Coolant Plugs (need 2 plugs) Part# 12602540


    WS6 store is selling a kit for $65.49 + shipping


    On SPDC site it states "THIS PART IS DISCONTINUED. YOU MUST NOW ORDER THE LS3 COOLANT CROSSOVER PIPE, # 12602548"


    On gmpartsdirect - it is a valid parts number and goes for $22.98 + shipping but you will need to order the plugs to.



    LS6 Valley Cover Tray Part # 12577927 ($55.72 + shipping @ gmaprtsdirect) ($88.12 + shipping @ SPDC)


    If you do the LS6 VCT mod or not you should also consider replacing the knock sensor while your there. They are 11 yrs old and most likely need replacing.


    Doing the notching is not difficult (scary as hell = YES!!) as long as you take your time and follow the directions. We have several threads sticky here that will help you. Also several members here, including me have done this mod. If you have any questions while doing it just ask. Doing the intake only takes about 1 -1.5 hrs to do. If you do the VCT mod add about 2 hrs in planning. I took me only about 2 hrs total because I've had my intake off a couple of times that I can move pretty fast to get it off.

  7. #7
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Here are the part numbers that I used to get mine from gmpartsdirect.com


    Coolant Pipe Part# 12602544
    Rear Coolant Plugs (need 2 plugs) Part# 12602540


    WS6 store is selling a kit for $65.49 + shipping


    On SPDC site it states "THIS PART IS DISCONTINUED. YOU MUST NOW ORDER THE LS3 COOLANT CROSSOVER PIPE, # 12602548"


    On gmpartsdirect - it is a valid parts number and goes for $22.98 + shipping but you will need to order the plugs to.



    LS6 Valley Cover Tray Part # 12577927 ($55.72 + shipping @ gmaprtsdirect) ($88.12 + shipping @ SPDC)


    If you do the LS6 VCT mod or not you should also consider replacing the knock sensor while your there. They are 11 yrs old and most likely need replacing.


    Doing the notching is not difficult (scary as hell = YES!!) as long as you take your time and follow the directions. We have several threads sticky here that will help you. Also several members here, including me have done this mod. If you have any questions while doing it just ask. Doing the intake only takes about 1 -1.5 hrs to do. If you do the VCT mod add about 2 hrs in planning. I took me only about 2 hrs total because I've had my intake off a couple of times that I can move pretty fast to get it off.
    Thank you for the parts numbers. I'll be ordering them this evening.

    Can you confirm that the valley cover isn't going to be pointless with a ls6 intake?

    I'd like to get a catch can in a few months and was under the impression that ls6 VCT with a catch can was probably the best/cleanest route.

  8. #8
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    The VCT is not a HP gain performance mod, it is more of a function improvement mod. What it does is moves the crappy OEM PCV from the valve covers to the underside of the VCT. It helps cut down a lot of oil getting into the pcv. That does help in lowering the amount of oil that gets into the intake. With a catch can it almost eliminates most of the oil getting into the intake. I've had mine on since march and my oil consumption has dropped to nil. Before I did this mod I was needing to add almost a 1/2 quart of oil every 4-6 weeks (I have no oil leaks at all). Afterwards no oil loss.


    Was it worth it, to me yes. I no longer have to deal with the POS OEM PCV system that will crack and cause vacuum leaks and oil loss. Also it was cheaper then replacing the OEM PCV by $40. The LS6 VCT you can get for between $55-$85, the OEM PCV goes for $88-$130.


    If you do the VCT mod I highly encourage you to get new KS sensors. Like I posted above they are old and most likely not come out of the LS1 VCT easy.

  9. #9
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    The VCT is not a HP gain performance mod, it is more of a function improvement mod. What it does is moves the crappy OEM PCV from the valve covers to the underside of the VCT. It helps cut down a lot of oil getting into the pcv. That does help in lowering the amount of oil that gets into the intake. With a catch can it almost eliminates most of the oil getting into the intake. I've had mine on since march and my oil consumption has dropped to nil. Before I did this mod I was needing to add almost a 1/2 quart of oil every 4-6 weeks (I have no oil leaks at all). Afterwards no oil loss.


    Was it worth it, to me yes. I no longer have to deal with the POS OEM PCV system that will crack and cause vacuum leaks and oil loss. Also it was cheaper then replacing the OEM PCV by $40. The LS6 VCT you can get for between $55-$85, the OEM PCV goes for $88-$130.


    If you do the VCT mod I highly encourage you to get new KS sensors. Like I posted above they are old and most likely not come out of the LS1 VCT easy.
    Thanks again. I knew it was in no way related to horsepower but my car also uses a little oil when driven hard.

    I've noticed fine cracks in the hoses and would love to get rid of the oem pcv.

    I'll order everything tonight and my only other question is what I should use to trim the block. some say dremel but just wondering what the best option is.

    I will also replace the ks while in there.
    Last edited by derekbuckner1; 09-26-2011 at 02:40 PM.

  10. #10
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I used both a 4" angle grinder and a dremel.

    Make sure you cover everything. I used garbage bags and rags to make sure no fragments ended up in the block. I had a buddy hold my shop vac close when I was doing the cuts so that it would suck up the debris as much as possible. I used the dremel to make the small and tight cuts, then used the grinder to knock out the big cut. I also used the dremel sanding dials to smooth off the jagged edges. Just trim what you need nothing more. And make sure you clean up as much as possible.


    I also timed it in that I did an oil change after I did this too so that I would get as much as possible any metal fragments if any out of the motor.

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    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    So I won't need to pick up any new hardware or anything for the install? Reuse the bolts from the ls1 VCT? Just the parts named above?

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    The LS6 VCT comes with new bolts at least mine did and one more thing you need to be aware of if you're doing this mod or just the intake. on the drivers side there is the OPSU. It is position just behind the intake. Best case if you are able to reach behind the intake and take it out using the socket (Auto parts stores have it for about $10). If you can't reach it be careful when lifting the intake out. The hose that goes from the intake to the break booster can whack the OPSU and break it. It's old and has been through many heat cycles and has become brittle. It can't hurt to change it out too or at least have it on hand in case you need it. OPSU is about $60.

    And anti-seize is your best friend.

    I know it seems I'm throwing more cost/parts at you it just that you're getting the benefits of learning from my mistakes or misfortune of my experience in doing these mods.
    It really sucks waiting 2 days for a part to get in so you can finish.



    And the most important thing about the intake I can tell you - when you go to tighten the intake down those torque specs are in lbs not ft lbs.

  13. #13
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Alright did you get your valley from gmpartsdirect? I just didn't know if I needed the two bolts for the new coolant pipe, or if those were included too

    Also, I either don't know how to use the site or I need the part #s for the knock sensors. And maybe opsu.

    Any reason to change knock harnesses? I know 98 was different but mine is 2000

    The ws6store kit mentions that it includes rubber gaskets needed, if I order separately, do I need to find those too?

    Sorry for 20 questions, want to get everything in order before I do it. Seems to be a little more extensive than the headers install was haha
    Last edited by derekbuckner1; 09-26-2011 at 02:24 PM.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I got my VCT from gmpartdirect as well as the knock sensors.

    I believe I reused my stock bolts for the coolant tube up front.

    I bought my LS6 coolant tube kit from ws6 store too. It came with everything so I didn't need to look for different sites to get, but it was also $15 cheaper back then.

    You will need 2 plugs for the rear of the cylinder. I don't remember any gaskets. I believe the plugs already have it on them.

    Wire Harness - No need to get it if your harness is ok.



    No problems in asking questions. If you need the KS part #'s let me know and I'll dig up my old receipt.

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    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    And I have another question. One writeup shows a fuel line hose from intake to VCT... The other shows how to use the ls1 pcv valve and a coupler.

    With the ls6 VCT, will I need to use the pcv or just run a hose. Thought I saw somewhere that the ls6 VCT has an internal pcv valve.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    The LS6 VCT has the PCV internal. You may be seeing the tube going from the VCT to the intake. Yes you can do it that way until you get a catch can. Some memebers will still install a PCV between the VCt and the intake. Why - I don't know that is why they did the mod in the first place


    The fuel line might be what they used to connect the VCT to the Intake.

  17. #17
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    alright. just making sure.

    wasn't really sure what the point of adding another pcv between the vct and intake was. but i wanted to make sure that it was internal

    i'll just run the 6" or so of the fuel line there and get the catch can as soon as i can afford it. adding all the knock sensors and everything for the vct accounted for the money i had set aside for the catch can lol

  18. #18
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    it was the ls1howto writeup that showed using the pcv valve again. several people pointed me to that writeup, which is why i was questioning it.

    LS1Howto.com

  19. #19
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Ok I see, the thread is kinda old but still very useful info. The part number that is listed in the thread is a LS^ VCT but an original version. On the original version that is in that thread it did not come with the pcv mounted under the VCT. The current version has it.



    Use the thread that says "Convert to LS6 valley cover". It has the current part numbers

    Technical info write-ups and stickies


    Also this thread might be of some help too. It will explain the vct mod vs OEM PCV

    Explaination of OEM PCV vs LS6 VCT Mod

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    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Just the answer I was looking for, yet again. Thank you sir.

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