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LONG TUBE HEADERS, a few quick questions.

This is a discussion on LONG TUBE HEADERS, a few quick questions. within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I apologize if these are repeated questions, I tried to look through the past threads but didn't find the answers ...

  1. #1
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    pewter
    2000 CAMARO SS

    LONG TUBE HEADERS, a few quick questions.

    I apologize if these are repeated questions, I tried to look through the past threads but didn't find the answers I was looking for so here goes and thanks in advance for the help and advice.

    First about my car: I have a 2000 SS camaro, LS1, 6-speed, SLP lid, K+N filter, Borla Adjustable catback exhaust, just cracked 40,000 miles yesterday. This is my daily driver and I put about 50 miles on it per day between joyriding and work driving.

    Questions: I will number them so just use the appropriate number in your reply if you only feel like answering 1 or 2 of my questions.

    1. What would be the best bang for my buck for a long tube header and off road y-pipe setup? I am currently leaning pretty hard towards pace setter long tubes because the price for the headers/y-pipe/all accessories is $499.00 shipped to my house. Please talk me into or out of this temporary conclusion I have formed.

    2. How important is it to get the headers ceramic coated and what exactly does that do? Is it just to keep the heat down in the engine bay? Does it actually work? How long does the coating typically last if the car is only driven in sunny/warm/dry weather? What does the head look like after about 6 months of driving?

    3. What other header brands would you say are easier to install the pace setter long tube? (top 3 brands)

    4. What other header brands would you say are the best overally long tube headers for the LS1 motor? (top 3) I have heard good things about QTP, SLP, and Hooker.

    5. Will the pace setter long tubes ceramic coated headers rust like my non-ceramic coated long tubes did that I have on my other 1995 Z28 383 stroker motor setup did?

    6. What long tube headers brand provide the most power? (top 3 brands)

    7. Realistically how long would it take from start to completely finished to remove the stock manifold and finish the long tub header/y-pip install? (2 fairly mechanical dudes, 12 cold beers, a great install guide I found online to follow, the chilton for reference, 3 3 ton jacks and 4 very tall jack stand).

    8. Does anyone have a sound clip with the pace setter long tubes, off road y-pipe, and borla adjustable cat-back exhaust system that I could listen to to make sure this is going to be loud enough for me? (please post links or email directly to steiger99@hotmail.com)

    9. Any other recommendations or adviceyou can give me is greatly appreciated. Thanks for all your time and help.

  2. #2
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    2002 WS6 TranAm

    Pacesetters are the best inexpensive headers for fit, performance, overall value. American Racing is probably the other extreme which is the best, best fitment and are stainless. My understanding on ceramic is about 4-5 yrs comfortable if driven like you mentioned. I don't know how long for Stainless but I would guess twice that long. Top brands are American Racing, Kooks for the stainless and Pacesetter and Hookers on the lowend. Some differences in performance but very slight.

  3. #3
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Ceramic coated headers will rust on the surface some. Just cosmetic issue tho. Stainless is the way to go if you can afford it.

  4. #4
    hanging around... LS1Jason's Avatar
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    1.) pacesetters w/ORY WILL be the best bang for the buck

    2.) get them in stainless, and have them coated afterwards. This will prevent the rusting you had problems with on the other car.

    3.) Install will be roughly the same with all.

    4.) QTP, Kooks are very popular but a little more pricey. Whatever you do stay AWAY from SLP's (Y2KPewterSS can show you come pics i believe).

    5.) see #2

    6.) probably kooks, but its all a debate and depends on other mods done to your vehicle.

    7.) I spent 8hrs start to finish on mine. TSP 1 7/8" longtubes. this was basically by myself.

    8.) check out ls1sounds.com

    9.) best of luck. go ahead and either pay for o2 extensions, or if your getting new o2's, go with the corvette rear's. as from what i've read the wiring is a little longer on them.


    when all else fails, revert back to http://ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108464
    Last edited by LS1Jason; 05-13-2009 at 06:53 PM. Reason: added header install link

  5. #5
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    1. I actually got ebay headers and y pipe for like $297 shipped to my door. I just put them on my car. For the price I was very happy with my choice and that they actually fit well. Oh they are both stainless as well.

  6. #6
    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    1. I actually got ebay headers and y pipe for like $297 shipped to my door. I just put them on my car. For the price I was very happy with my choice and that they actually fit well. Oh they are both stainless as well.
    i have the ebay headers with a pacesetter ory, I was happy with the purchase.

  7. #7
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    Does Pace setter come in stainless??

    I have heard only happy things from people that have the pace setter long tubes. I saw someone mention getting stainless as a must. Does pace setter make a stainless version? If so, I have checkd everywhere with no luck. Do you know where I can find Stainless pace setter long tubes? website? phone number? etc..

    Performance wise I am starting to believe that there is not much difference between most of the top selling long tube headers. As far as ease of install and ground clearance, which set of long tubes would be better than the pace setter?

    Has anyone found a better deal than $499 shipped for the headers, Off road y-pipe, mounting accessories, and o2 extentions. I found this deal on ebay and unless someone else knows of a better deal, I will probably just go this way. Oh, those are ceramic coated as well.

    Thanks for all the replies so far, it has helped me out in my search for the perfect headers for my setup.

  8. #8
    Shake and Bake Triple H Coating's Avatar
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    I am no expert on any of the questions, except possibly one. Ceramic coatings beni's are 2 fold. The first benifit is 2 fold as well. Technically ceramic coatings first and only intended benifit is heat sink. With ceraimic it will transfer the heat down you exhaust pipe and by doing this there will be a increase in horsepower. And before anyone questions it, no, its not a fast 90 HP gain or anything, were only talking a few horse here. It also will make the temp under the hood go down drastically, saving plastic components or increasing those components life spans (coils, plug wires, ect.) and will also allow for easyer cooling of the engine. The radiator can disipate the heat from the block quicker.

    The other reason is curb appeal, but in my opinion not as important as the first purpose.

    Willl ceramic eventually fail? Yes. How long? Depends on driving style, but a daily driver that doesnt see the track on a weekly basis should last around 5 years.

    And finally, the one true best answer for headers if you want to go all out would be to purchase stainless and ceramic coat them. You will get the best of both worlds, no rust and heat sink. Stainless headers will hold on to the ceramic longer due to the fact that there will be no oxidation (rusting) like others.

    Hope this helps,
    Mike

  9. #9
    Member TA98's Avatar
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    1. You might want to check out the BBK Headers. I havent heard much about them but they are ceramic coated and very reasonably prices.

    2. The coating is there to prevent rust. Yes they will eventually rust, especially if your engine runs lean and makes the headers incredibly hot. But if you have the money, stainless would definitly be the better choice especially since this is your daily driver

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    3. Search here and other sites for problems people ran into with specific header installs. Some headers seem to require cutting or grinding parts, loosening one or two motor mounts and lifting the engine, etc. Obviously, this adds to the install complexity. Don't base your choice on mine but I went with Kooks because they are stainless and have the reputation of easy to install and good fitment. I installed them by myself with no issues. I'm sure many other headers are just as easy and sometimes a little grinding might be worth saving a lot of money depending on your budget.

    7. I did mine by myself over a couple of days. Probably spent a total of 10-12 hours on removal/installation. That included about 30 minutes to run to the parts store to buy a replacement coolant temperature sensor that I broke when I jammed the headers up on the drivers side. Oh yeah, I also replaced the plugs, changed the oil, and moved the fuel and brake lines higher in the trans. tunnel at the same time. The best suggestion to make the installation easier is to get the car as high in the air as you can. Passenger side should go in easy but drivers side needs to be high to get it in. My install was done with tall jackstands in the front - car a little less than 2 feet off the ground.

  11. #11
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    Great thread...I'm still shopping for my perfect LT's and these sorts of threads really do add to my knowledge every time. Thanks LS1.com.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    1. I actually got ebay headers and y pipe for like $297 shipped to my door. I just put them on my car. For the price I was very happy with my choice and that they actually fit well. Oh they are both stainless as well.
    Mind pm'ing me the ebay id of the seller? i was just looking and was thinking to buy some cheapos too. they claim to be stainless and look top notch and for the price i can't say no.

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    i am looking at buying pacesetter long tubes and a Ypipe. i was just wondering which set to get for the street. mid tube? quick trip? and what does it mean " no A.I.R or egr"? sorry if its a stupid question i just dont want to get something i dont want. thanks!

  14. #14
    Member nillam1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Hazz View Post
    i am looking at buying pacesetter long tubes and a Ypipe. i was just wondering which set to get for the street. mid tube? quick trip? and what does it mean " no A.I.R or egr"? sorry if its a stupid question i just dont want to get something i dont want. thanks!
    The air or egr is for the pollution control. If you want to keep the pollution control to pass emissions, you will need them! Without them is for off road use or areas that dont get inspected. In CANADA every car has to pass strict California like laws to pass. We have to get tested every 2 years before we get our licence plate stickers. YIKES! It is called a CLEAN AIR TEST and costs about $40.00, just thought you would like to know.
    2002 Camaro Z28 Bolt ons, Flowmaster catback w/3" QTP electric cutout, Superchips tuned, Granatelli MAF, SLP cold air induction Lid & filter, ZEX powertune plugs, Taylor 10.4mm wires, 160 T-stat w/fan control, Eibach sportlines & BFG-KDW's on 17" SLP SS rims.

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    Member nillam1's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Also, why is everyone so down on the SLP LT's and cats? Are they that bad? I have EIBACH sportline springs that drop my car about 1 3/4", which LT's have best ground clearance?

  16. #16
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    ppl rag on them so much because they're expensive, and not worth it. Plus they hang down too low. I'll try seeing if i can find that picture i mentioned.

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by steiger99 View Post


    1. What would be the best bang for my buck for a long tube header and off road y-pipe setup? I am currently leaning pretty hard towards pace setter long tubes because the price for the headers/y-pipe/all accessories is $499.00 shipped to my house. Please talk me into or out of this temporary conclusion I have formed.

    2. How important is it to get the headers ceramic coated and what exactly does that do? Is it just to keep the heat down in the engine bay? Does it actually work? How long does the coating typically last if the car is only driven in sunny/warm/dry weather? What does the head look like after about 6 months of driving?

    5. Will the pace setter long tubes ceramic coated headers rust like my non-ceramic coated long tubes did that I have on my other 1995 Z28 383 stroker motor setup did?

    7. Realistically how long would it take from start to completely finished to remove the stock manifold and finish the long tub header/y-pip install? (2 fairly mechanical dudes, 12 cold beers, a great install guide I found online to follow, the chilton for reference, 3 3 ton jacks and 4 very tall jack stand).


    9. Any other recommendations or adviceyou can give me is greatly appreciated. Thanks for all your time and help.
    1. I bought some used Pacesetters cheap. They practically mounted themselves. I didn't have to lift the car as high as some people said, and they went in easy. Good fit on the flanges and good quality all around, even though they were used and been around the block they are still doing well.

    2. I've run painted headers for 15 years or so on different cars and stayed with painted headers for my LS1 (I admit that I'm cheap and I'm on a tight budget) and I've never had a problem with them. I've also owned some jet-hot or coated or whatever you want to call them and I've never noticed any temperature difference, just appearance. Sure painted headers don't look as good after a few months but I can live with that for the price. It's just surface rust. I've got some 20 year old rusted (formerly painted) headers in my garage and they're holding up fine and I'd put them on another car without giving it a second thought.

    5. They shouldn't.

    7. It took me 10 hours, by myself, on my back in my driveway with only hand tools. And no beer. I also did the motor mounts. And that was having to fight and break nearly every single bolt in the exhaust. Wait, I take it back, I did successfully break every single bolt on the exhaust, without exception. The previous owner of my car had never touched the exhaust and 11 years of daily driving took its toll. 30 + minutes of my job was wrestling trying to get the rusted y-pipe off the rusted factory i-pipe.

    9. Do the motor mounts while you're there, or you'll regret it. Take your time, don't get into a rush and forget something and have to tear it all back apart.

  19. #19
    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1nterceptor View Post
    9. Do the motor mounts while you're there, or you'll regret it. Take your time, don't get into a rush and forget something and have to tear it all back apart.
    VERY TRUE!!! I did my headers first then a month or so later i did my motor mounts. That really pissed me off!!! It was a DUMB mistake.

  20. #20
    Member nillam1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1Jason View Post
    ppl rag on them so much because they're expensive, and not worth it. Plus they hang down too low. I'll try seeing if i can find that picture i mentioned.
    Thanks!

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