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Jet Hot LT installed--SES code

This is a discussion on Jet Hot LT installed--SES code within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Just finished the Jet Hot install. Got all emissions connections and reconnected both air and egr tube. Just drove around ...

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    Jet Hot LT installed--SES code

    Just finished the Jet Hot install. Got all emissions connections and reconnected both air and egr tube. Just drove around town a little and about 20 miles on the highway. Feels great with good SOTP gain. Runs smooth but the idle speed reacts slowly between shifts, does not drop back down much or fast. At standstill goes back to 700 after about 5 seconds. On in town driving threw a SES code. I do not yet have a code reader. Looking for advice on how to troubleshoot this stuff. thanks, there is so much great info on this forum!
    00 Maroon Z28, M6
    cold air, slp lid with K&N, Granatelli MAF
    Corsa catback, 160 stat
    Jet Hot LT headers with cats
    TR 223/230 .612/.608 115 LSA Cam
    AFR 215 ported Heads

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    More info

    My codes are P171 and P174, too lean right and left bank. Also p507, Idle control too high, that fits what I see. I can see it being too lean with the new headers and guess I need to adjust that. Any ideas why the idle is whacko?

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    I had a similar problem with my idle when I installed my headers (I have the same headers). I reset the ecm by turn on the ignition and pulling both ecm fuses, wait a couple minutes then turn off ignition and replace fuses. You will have to keep your foot on the gas ths first time you start the car or it will die. Then let it idle for about 15min. Then drive the car NICELY for 25 miles. After doing this my car has run great ever since. Don't know exactly what the problem with the codes is, this may take care of that too. By the way I do not have emmissions or cats on my car. hope this helps
    Last edited by EvilSS02; 02-12-2006 at 01:41 PM.

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    header install/idle problem/ses code update.

    Evil, thanks for the info. I will try resetting the ECM as you suggest. Glad to know someone else had the problem and solved it easily. I have a Superchips tune and am able to unload it and reload stock. I did this and it reset the codes. Idle was even higher then, about 2400, but does go back down to 700 if the car is not moving and wait 10 seconds. Then reloaded the superchips tune. Idle problem still there, but the codes have not come back...yet. Haven't driven it that much.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swifty
    I have a Superchips tune and am able to unload it and reload stock. I did this and it reset the codes. Idle was even higher then, about 2400, but does go back down to 700 if the car is not moving and wait 10 seconds. Then reloaded the superchips tune. Idle problem still there, but the codes have not come back...yet. Haven't driven it that much.
    You did disconnect the battery before you unplugged any sensors, right? If not, you triggered those codes (doesn't necessarily mean that something is wrong). Have it scanned/diagnosed properly...

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    Codes like P0171, P0174, and P0507 are codes that will only set if the car is running, and the ecm runs that specific test for that component. Codes will only set if the car is running or you unplug a sensor with the ignition on. The codes you have set while you were driving the car! Again, reset the ecm and DRIVE the car. The ecm needs to adjust things like Fuel trims, fuel curves, and the idle accordingly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EvilSS02
    Codes will only set if the car is running or you unplug a sensor with the ignition on.
    That's not necessarily true, and re-inspect my post... I said disconnecting electrical connections with the ECM "on" via the battery (not "key on") would "trigger" a code, not necessarily be the direct result of it.

    Swifty, many a time I would forget to disconnect the battery (especially when swapping Lids, and the MAF, IAC & TPS comes into play), and the ECM would automatically need to re-learn my driving habits (wouldn't immediately idle right). It's very common...

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    96camaroSS
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    You might want to check closely for vacuum leaks also. All of those codes relate directly to a vacuum leak. Especially since you're seeing a lean code from both banks.

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    Had another idea. If you still have a problem after you reset the ecm, try re installing your factory maf. I have seen a similar issue with a friends car. See the thread about Mass air flow sensor in this section. Seen multiple problems with descreened MAFs.

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    I did not disconnect the battery!!!

    Instructions said to, but did not understand why. Am I a dumb a$$?? Sounds like I need to reset the ecm and help it relearn stuff??? I could use a little background on why I should have disconnected. You guys are great, thanks!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by swifty
    I could use a little background on why I should have disconnected.
    The ECM is "live" even with the ignition in the key off position. Disconnecting sensors with the battery still being prevalent can trip the ECM. If you recently cleared any DTC in the ECM, understand that you also cleared data learned about the engine itself. The engine will operate with base parameters programmed into the ECM, and will then enter a block learning mode (BLM) once the engine reaches closed loop. This will happen the first time you start the engine, directly after the SES codes have been cleared....

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    OK, I've reset the ecm, started and let it idle. Codes cleared so guess learned stuff is also. Will drive easliy now for a while and see if idle straightens out and if codes come back.

    Do you think my Superchips tune could make the car run too lean with headers? Wondering if I should do another tune, maybe a Westers thru Tbyrne. What do you all think?

  13. #13
    96camaroSS
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    Disconnnecting the battery is just a simple and effective way to "CYA" so that you don't inadvertently short something to ground while working on your car. With all due respect to others who've posted to this, the codes you have seen only happen as a result of the engine running when something is not right at that time. Granted they are retained and the SES light stays on with OBDII. But they had to set with engine on and a problem present.

    I bet you find the lean codes are also related to the high idle code. If it were just the lean left and right bank I'd suggest looking for exhaust leaks. But I can't connect the dots for all 3 codes from an exhaust leak. But vacuum leak or leaks will give lean fault codes if it's severe enough and it'll definitely affect idle control

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    Quote Originally Posted by swifty
    [i][b]OK, I've reset the ecm, started and let it idle. Codes cleared so guess learned stuff is also. Will drive easliy now for a while and see if idle straightens out and if codes come back.[i][b]
    Exactly... you'll need to drive it for a good thirty to forty minutes, and allow ample time for the ECM to build new data, off of it's base data through BLM. If a code becomes prevalent, you'll need to double check all of you're work (including other things like fuel pressure, vacuum presure, etc.). This is why I originally mentioned to have it properly diagnosed, not so much for code readings, but to eliminate the guess work for newbie's.

    Quote Originally Posted by 96CamaroSS
    With all due respect to others who've posted to this, the codes you have seen only happen as a result of the engine running when something is not right at that time. Granted they are retained and the SES light stays on with OBDII. But they had to set with engine on and a problem present.
    Again, disconnecting sensors with the battery still being connected will trip the ECM. This does not automatically set the codes mentioned above, but can obviously "trigger" one during the BLM... as the engine searches for it's correct idle speed. Many times I've seen the SES light flash both on and off, as the ECM searches for it's desired RPM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swifty
    Do you think my Superchips tune could make the car run too lean with headers? Wondering if I should do another tune, maybe a Westers thru Tbyrne. What do you all think?
    You're stock tune should be fine, if all you did was install a set of headers. If you truly are running a tad lean, have someone bump up you're fuel pressure. Remember though, it's possible that you inadvertently "triggered" a code during the ECM's Block Learning Mode. There are a few factors to consider. Were you frustrated? Did you drive it really hard during BLM (unknowingly), which might have caused it to throw a code...?

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    Red face

    Haven't driven it yet but understand I need to drive it normally. I'm sure I cranked on it first time around. I don't know anything about vacuum leaks, is that something I can check for? Where would I check for vacuum leaks and how is that related to the things touched in a manifold to header swap out?

    I do have the Superchips tune in currently. If the idle settles down with normal learning driving but the lean codes return do you think that these might go away if I return to stock tune and again re-learn the ecm gently. That is, I wonder if the Superchips tune itself is too lean for a header'ed car?
    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by swifty
    Haven't driven it yet but understand I need to drive it normally.
    You really need to reset the ECM, and drive the car around for a few miles as soon as you can. Allow the ECM to adjust, and learn. Until then, everything else is simply speculation....

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    Smile Update/Jet Hot Y pipe install

    Drove the car normally around town and on the highway for about 30 miles and about an hour last night. No codes! I definately feel that the idle is much improved so think the ecm reset is the key. THANKS everyone!! I can sort of "feel" it still learning.

    Evil, other Jet Hot'ers. Did you like the way the Jet Hot Y pipe installed? I stuggled with it quite a bit and ended up with some pipe junctions not as tight and close as I would like. Did you use the u type clamps on the cat junction? Seemed to me like a strap type clamp might have been better. And I could not get the cat junction with the cats installed to butt up real close, like maybe an eighth inch gap. I will not run without cats so I wonder if I should have this junction welded. Can you weld this coated tubing?

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    I had major problems installing the y pipe. Had to heat up pipe and bend it to get it to fit. Then took it off and had it re coated. I used all strap type clamps. Yes you can have it welded but make sure to paint the welds with high temp paint or they will rust. Glad to here it's running better, but still drive it nicely somemore.

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