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Intake/Header Install...Need Some Help Guys

This is a discussion on Intake/Header Install...Need Some Help Guys within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok so a few questions. What is this? Is it part of the EGR and does it need to go ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Intake/Header Install...Need Some Help Guys

    Ok so a few questions.



    What is this? Is it part of the EGR and does it need to go back on? I'm doing !EGR !AIR



    Where do all these vacuum lines hook in to? It seems like I took a ton off stuff off the back of the intake and I'm scared I want be able to hook it all back up correctly.


    Can I replace this seal on the back of the intake? I tried getting it out by twisting it around, but it just didn't want to come out. I think I might have damaged the seal anyways by trying to get it out.


    Do I need to get new foam for the bottom of the intake?



    I broke the oil pressure sending unit I believe? Its round and about 2 inches long and it screws down into the back off the motor. How do I get the rest out? It looks like a big socket, one that I don't have unfortunately. Then for the headers, there's four o2 sensors, but only two bungs on my headers??? Which o2 sensors go into the bungs on the headers (the ones before or after the cats)? Then what do I do with the other two? Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    the first pic you asked about is the actual egr itself and if you're doing !EGR then just leave it off. The other vacuum lines look like the ones behind the intake ( 1 is the map but I can't really tell where the other one is from). That clip on the map sensor is what holds it in place so you'll have to push on it to get the map sensor free and then I'm sure you can get a seal at a parts store or if push comes to shove the dealership. Unless the seal is nicked or something it'd probably be alright but way easier to replace it now with the intake out of the car.
    The front O2's go into your headers. I think that's all the questions.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    oil pressure sending unit......I forget the actual wrench size. There's a socket that you can get at a parts store that's specific for that unit though. I've done it both ways...with the socket and with a wrench. With the intake out you should be able to get it with just about anything....crescent wrench even and take it with you to the parts store.........sounds like you're having fun.

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help Orion. So what do I do with the rear o2 sensors? Also how do I get that part out of the back of the intake to replace the seal? I've tried pulling and twisting it out, but it just doesn't want to come out. Do you know the torque specs on the oil pressure unit? And do I need to get new foam for the bottom of the intake? Also do I need to replace the O rings on my injectors? The car only has 50K.. Yeah im having fun
    Last edited by splitfinger09; 05-06-2008 at 12:30 PM.

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by splitfinger09 View Post
    Thanks for the help Orion. So what do I do with the rear o2 sensors? Also how do I get that part out of the back of the intake to replace the seal? I've tried pulling and twisting it out, but it just doesn't want to come out. Do you know the torque specs on the oil pressure unit? And do I need to get new foam for the bottom of the intake? Yeah im having fun
    Torque specs..ehh, just snug er' tight lol. Everyone breaks the dam oil pressure sender! I did it too.

    You haven't eve3n started on the header install yet...? That should be even more fun!

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    that clip on the map sensor has to be pushed back away from the intake then the map sensor slides out. Oil pressure sensor is 15 ft/lb's. Here's a link to the sticky that has all the torque specs on it. Print it and put it in your tool box, comes in pretty handy.

    You remove the rear O2's unless you have a catted Y pipe. Is there no foam left at all? You could probably get away without it but if it were me I'd find something to put on the bottom there. I'm just a little anal like that though. Pretty much any home improvement store will have foam with a sticky side on it. Might check a parts store too. I would not put on a real thick piece or it'll cause you more problems than it's worth. I wouldn't worry about the injectors, the o-rings should be fine.

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    Member Jon7I2's Avatar
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    Welcome to the club for breaking that little fucker (Oil Pr. Sending Unit)

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    that clip on the map sensor has to be pushed back away from the intake then the map sensor slides out. Oil pressure sensor is 15 ft/lb's. Here's a link to the sticky that has all the torque specs on it. Print it and put it in your tool box, comes in pretty handy.

    You remove the rear O2's unless you have a catted Y pipe. Is there no foam left at all? You could probably get away without it but if it were me I'd find something to put on the bottom there. I'm just a little anal like that though. Pretty much any home improvement store will have foam with a sticky side on it. Might check a parts store too. I would not put on a real thick piece or it'll cause you more problems than it's worth. I wouldn't worry about the injectors, the o-rings should be fine.
    Thanks Orion, but I was actually referring to the whole assembly not the map sensor. The orange seal behind the black piece that goes into the back of the intake. Do I need to replace it? I've twisted it around trying to get it out.


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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon7I2 View Post
    Welcome to the club for breaking that little fucker (Oil Pr. Sending Unit)
    Good club to be in

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    I was going to call you Beau, but I found this and it looks like Orion has answered most of your questions already. I can still call if you need me to though.

    As far as torqueing the intake bolts down, "You need to torque these down in a 2-pass fashion..the first pass, tighten to 44 INCH-lbs, then, on the 2nd pass torque them to 89 INCH-lbs", thats what you are supposed to do, most people just hand tighten them though.

    Here is a great how to on the intake swap in case you encounter any more issues. The oil pressure sensor, I have broke 2, on other peoples cars that I did, and got smart and managed to not break my own To avoid breaking that sensor, you have to unplug the brake booster line from the master cylinder.

    Like Orion, I would probably get some foam for underneath the intake as well cuz I am anal, but its not an absolute must
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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Done! Thanks for all the help everyone. So what kind of gains do you think I picked up(Before and after a tune)??





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    30 RWHP prior to a tune.

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    30 RWHP prior to a tune.
    Is that with the intake and headers? Also what about after a tune?

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by splitfinger09 View Post
    Is that with the intake and headers? Also what about after a tune?
    Yes, and if anything maybe more, my 30 is a conservative guess. You might pick up an additional 10 after tuning.

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    congrats beau, bring er down here sometime this summer and well go cruising

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigersport14 View Post
    congrats beau, bring er down here sometime this summer and well go cruising
    you got it man.

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    well the piece in the back of the intake DOES NOT COME OUT without breaking something.

    it is not available if you break it, not from GM, not anybody. so you have a choice to make.

    GM sells the whole LS6 intake with the rear piece, or you can destroy the LS1 intake to save the vacuum port.

    now, if you dont want to take it out, clean it very well, and silicone around the seal.

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