This is a discussion on installing headers within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; im finally getting pacesetter armor coats and a y pipe. i know this ? has been run into the ground ...
04-11-2007, 05:29 PM #1
im finally getting pacesetter armor coats and a y pipe. i know this ? has been run into the ground but i can someone tell me EVERYTHING im gonna need. i just dont wanna be installing them and be missing something important.
04-11-2007, 06:30 PM #2
A lift or jackstands, assortment of hand tools, liquid wrench, a buddy, and a desire to bleed from the knuckles. And some extra time.
04-11-2007, 06:32 PM #3
boy do i look foward to it
04-11-2007, 07:02 PM #41999 Trans Am M6
SLP Short Throw, Lid and CAI, BMR STB and SFC, UMI PHB, Pacesetter LT's and ORY, Magnaflow Catback, DMH 3" E-Cutout, LS7 Clutch, Motive 4.10, 160 T-Stat, MSD, !AIR, !EGR, 17x9.5 Chrome C6's wrapped in Hankook 275/40/17
Tuned at Mongillo Motors in New Haven, CT
04-11-2007, 07:28 PM #5
Liquid wrench AKA penetrating oil. Used to break through rust. I highly recommend it on EVERY bolt that you will be touching. A little time now will save from breaking bolts later. And yes, new OE metal gaskets are a good idea.
04-11-2007, 08:01 PM #6
04-11-2007, 08:15 PM #7
i couldn't imagine not useing a lift to do these
i had a lift and it went smooth
and i had air tools which made getting the old crap off alot easier and faster
did everything on mine in under 4 hours
you'll need someone with small arms since i can't get mine back there it was a pita for my buddy even to get the bolts out for the manifolds
04-12-2007, 05:27 AM #8
You spoiled turd...I did mine in the driveway on my back with jackstands, and I didn't feel like using the air compressor either. That's how a lot of us do it. Do whatcha can with whatcha got. It wasn't THAT bad though.
04-12-2007, 05:44 AM #9
04-12-2007, 07:02 AM #10
04-12-2007, 07:05 AM #11
04-12-2007, 07:17 AM #12
A lift for a header install is like finding diamonds in your backyard...
04-12-2007, 05:22 PM #13
i think the y pipe, o2 extensions and gaskets are included but someone mentioned a different kind and where would i get them? ive also heard i need simulators or something bc i wont have any cats
04-12-2007, 07:10 PM #14
Gaskets are included, but you have to buy extensions seperately. Mine were $17 each. You can buy o2 sims for the rears, but they are not cheap and have to be replaced as they go out. Best bet is to get a tune or someone that can tune for you to delete the rear o2 sensor so it doesn't set a code.
04-12-2007, 07:27 PM #15
wow thats the first i've ever heard of them going bad after a while, u sure about that, or has it just happened once that you know of?
04-12-2007, 10:50 PM #16
Personally, I would buy aftermarket extensions and not use the spliced ones that come with the headers. Extensions are pretty cheap and I've never been a fan of cutting wires if I don't have to. Might want to get some gaskets for the a.i.r. system. I forget if mine were ok or not. I bought gaskets anyhow because they're cheap. I passed on the liquid wrench and went the sawzall route. None of my stock exhaust will ever go back on and it's much faster just to cut the shit out of there and be done with it. If you're doing it on jack stands make sure your jack will get the car up high enough. It has to be really high and when I say really high I actually mean dangerously high.
04-13-2007, 03:45 AM #17
04-13-2007, 04:00 AM #18
Here's a good excerpt from http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=o2+sims . Several people there had the SES light problem after o2 sims failed to work.
Rear O2 sensors - Emissions controll "tattler". Reads the exhaust gas after the cats, compares content to that of the front O2 sensors, makes sure cats are doing their job.
Removing the rear O2's is a must when doing headers. Even if cats and rest of equipment is used, SES light will still come on most of the time due to abnormal readings.
Buy O2 simulators - these plug into the harness and simulate a functioning cat. These have been known to STILL not prevent the SES light after exhaust work.
Have Rear O2's tuned out - better option, usually cheaper than buying O2 sims, guaranteed to stop SES light.
Best Option - Have REAR O2's, EGR, and AIR codes tuned out at same times, even if you wish to keep EGR/AIR. Any speedshop with LS1edit/HPtuners can do this. A friend who has a multiple car copy can as well. 2K2WS6TA has noted that the new Predator can supossedly delete the codes (per their website), but I'm not sure. Most handheld programmers can "read" the code, then "clear it", but this is not "deleting". When a code is "cleared", the SES light only goes away, but comes back when the car is turned off and re-started. If anyone has any info on this, post up!
You can call around to a local shop and ask. I paid $75 at MTI, and should expect it to cost around that much. Some shops might even do it for free hoping to strike up some business. Go to LS1tech.com, click the top right button, and search sponsers by zip code and distance. You can also do a mail order if you don't have access to it. You just ship them your PCM, they edit it, and ship it back.
04-13-2007, 04:09 AM #19
Failed o2 sim threads: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...ht=SES+02+sims
The O2 Sensor Problem That Doesn't Go Away!!!
Read: O2 simulators?
o2 simulator ?
Interesting possible alternative: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...t=o2+simulator
Last edited by jag42420; 04-13-2007 at 04:30 AM.
04-13-2007, 07:27 AM #20
i didn't read those but that's not what I wanna hear. I won't be putting a lot of miles are the car for the next couple years. Only a DD in the summer, so hopefully the 02 sims can hold until i get more boltons and a full tune.
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