Induction Upgrades and then a tune?
This is a discussion on Induction Upgrades and then a tune? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; My car Dyno'd 330rwhp/342rwtq on a Mustang DYNO after my LT's, exhaust, lid, and tune. That was also through a ...
04-09-2011, 03:46 PM #21
My car Dyno'd 330rwhp/342rwtq on a Mustang DYNO after my LT's, exhaust, lid, and tune. That was also through a 9" rear end, which is the least efficient. I'm a M6.
04-09-2011, 05:43 PM #22
I would think that your intake mods will only go so far before they hit the restrictive exhaust and limiting power. Keep hunting thru the on-line auctions for used parts. Other guys are constantly changing and upgrading. I get all my mods second hand. Chrome or aluminum is better than no coating. Ceramic protects the steel AND keeps heat flowing thru the exhaust. Stainless is better but is high cost. Stainless with ceramic is best (very costly).
05-21-2011, 02:55 PM #23
What about short or mid-length headers? I know they don't yield as much gain, but certain things about long tubes put me off. I would like to be able to pass emissions and would also like to avoid ground clearance issues, especially since I'm considering lowering my springs about an inch or so.
My last induction mod is coming up soon and then it will be time to move on to exhaust.
Is the only reason to get LTs because they make more power? Are the benefits of short vs. medium vs. long just a tradeoff between performance and price, or is there more to it than that?
05-21-2011, 08:47 PM #24
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Ugy Lower Corner of AL
Navy Blue Metallic
- 98 T/A w/a little mods...
shorties and mids are really only good to give you a little better then stock but also allow you to pass emissions in some states.
States like Cali and NY are hard asses when it comes to LTs.
05-21-2011, 10:10 PM #25
05-22-2011, 02:48 PM #26
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Central Florida
Navy Blue, Dark Cherry
- 98 M6 TA, 87 A4 TA
not to derail thread, but just don't forget about your suspension and drivetrain, as you're adding power your putting more stress on them and some pieces should be upgraded no matter what. Also be sure to check out the "free mods".
GL with your build
05-22-2011, 10:16 PM #27
05-23-2011, 05:10 AM #28
05-23-2011, 09:09 AM #29
Torque arm... same as panhard bar? I understand that the STB is kinda dubious, however, I'm thinking that maybe since I have a vert, it will actually reduce flex that coupes don't experience... After all, it sits right over the motor, which is where I would imagine flex is greatest...
05-23-2011, 09:43 AM #30
You mentioned tunnel brace. That to me meant torque arm since the torque arm comes in a tunnel brace fashion or a full-length version.
The tunnel in the car is in the middle going from front to back.
A pan hard bar goes from left to right.
A pan hard bar controls the cars motion from side to side.
A torque arm is a metal arm attached between the rear end axle assembly and the vehicle's frame. It's purpose is to prevent the driving wheels from trying to rotate the axle assembly relative to the vehicle's frame under acceleration, or in the opposite direction under braking. Thus the torque is "neutralized" so far as trying to rotate the drive axles, and the torque is all applied to the job of accelerating the vehicle in a linear direction, or translating braking force to a force that slows the vehicle.
05-23-2011, 10:20 AM #31
05-23-2011, 03:37 PM #32
I was under the impression that a tunnel brace bolted up across the driveshaft, and has a safety loop.
Last edited by Naaman; 05-23-2011 at 03:39 PM.
05-23-2011, 05:44 PM #33
A torque arm will help prevent the rear end (axle assembly) from trying to rotate under hard acceleration, thus keeping the tires planted more firmly against the ground. This in term helps with traction and keep HP where it belongs...at the ground.
Hope that helps clarify.
The torque arm (in stock form) mounts to the rear end assembly and the tailshaft of the transmission. Aftermarket torque arms usually remove the front mounting off the tailshaft and onto the actual frame of the car via cross-member. This reduces the chances of you breaking your tailshaft housing of the transmission (which many have).
05-24-2011, 06:54 AM #34
Okay, so it mitigates parasitic loss, then? Rather than the rotational forces of the crank twisting the whole car and rattling things around, it directs the force straight (or... perpendicular, as the case may be) to the axle. Right?
05-24-2011, 07:07 AM #35
Correct. It controls your pinion angle, which is the angle of the rear differential pinion with respect to your drive shaft.
It usually starts off or is set to -2 degrees (pinion is nose down in relation to the drive shaft) and as the car is accelerated, ideally it would be at exactly 0 degrees, or a straight line. This straight driveline transmits the most power to the wheels.
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