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Hows this small list for 1st mods? Noticable gain?

This is a discussion on Hows this small list for 1st mods? Noticable gain? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Just got my t/a and wanna do the basics, I was thinking: Some type of new filter lid. Coolant Bypass ...

  1. #1
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    Hows this small list for 1st mods? Noticable gain?

    Just got my t/a and wanna do the basics, I was thinking:

    Some type of new filter lid.
    Coolant Bypass
    160* thermostat
    Loudmouth (im set on it )
    Pro 5-0 shifter

    Is there anything else I should get? Dont wanna break the bank to bad? Local guys gonna tune it and remove the skip shift thing plus lower the temp for the fans to come on.

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    Sub frame connectors should be in the list for one of your first mods. YOu have a good list except no SFC's.

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    Member jmhvenom's Avatar
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    If it has Ttops or Convert then SFCs are good. I have yet to get them and it is just fine, but notice a bit of rattle. I have those same mods, but I have a cutout instead of a Loudmount. I would definatly get an ASP Pulley, and a lid that doesnt have the AIR hole. Might get some Eibach lowering springs makes it look like a car and not a 4x4.

    With those same mods plus the ones I mention, and Nitto DRs, I gained a second 14.3 -> 13.3 in an A4 with 2.73s

  4. #4
    Story of My Life!! BIG D's SS's Avatar
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    I got SFC's almost last on my list but I got them I started noticing rattles and my t-tops seemed like they shifted. Gears would also be a great mod. 3.73's for auto and 4.10's for m-6.
    3 inch Chambered Catback.

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    Ya I want to get subframe connectors but the nice ones from slp are a little outta range right now.

    Can I get a regular airbox lid and delete that hose??

  6. #6
    i would port your own throttle body or pay me to do it lol....but its cheap and you see a real gain..also if you get a lid without the air whole just put a small filter in the tube a relocate it somewhere...

  7. #7
    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    While you're putting doing the bypass and before you put your new lid on...do the FRA mod. Some say don't cut the baffle underneath...but I did and haven't had any probs...filter gets dirty faster though. It'll walk you through the mod here....it's free and just takes a little time.http://installuniversity.com/install...sity/index.htm

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    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    some info on calculating HP, and my bolts on mods below:
    A4 TA, substract 18% to 20% from the engine hp and you get hp to the rear wheel.
    The M6 are said to be about 16% power loss..
    so let's take my '99 A4 TA which claims 305hp to engine. That means
    305-(305*0.18) = 304-54.9 = 250.1rwhp as stock engine.

    my Mods:
    I've got bolt on mods, lid and filter (5rwhp), SLP cold air induction kit (8rwhp), smooth bellow (5rwhp), Gratenelli MAF (5rwhp), 160F thermo, cat back Corsa (15rwhp), HyperTech Programer II (10rwhp), ASP Underdrive Pulley(12rwhp).

    This dynoed the car at 315wrhp. so all those bolts on gave me only about 60-65 rwhp gain which is just about right. I did spent $850 on the Corsa, then $250 on the HPP3, and then another $300-$400 on the rest, about $1500 total which is about right for 60rwhp gain. If you were to spend $2000 on new head cyclinder it would bump you 50-60rwhp so I think I made a pretty good investment so far on the bolt ons.

    My next move is to get jet-hot long tube haders and Y pipe which will add 20-25rwhp and then
    get ls6 manifold intake adding another 10rwhp. And when I get $2-3k aside next year I can get the
    head/cam package Patriot stage III probably which will get me in the 420rwhp with a nice tune.

    PS. I did get the Eibach Pro kit lowering 1.25, it looks great.. use the stock shocks as you won't bottom out with this unless you go with 2inches springs.
    If you lower your ride and want to do LT headers and Y pipe later, you can still do it just stay away from the SLP brand since they will eat an additional 1-1.5 inch into the clearance and may scrape/bottom out every now and then.

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    Quote Originally Posted by djvaly View Post
    some info on calculating HP, and my bolts on mods below:
    A4 TA, substract 18% to 20% from the engine hp and you get hp to the rear wheel.
    The M6 are said to be about 16% power loss..
    so let's take my '99 A4 TA which claims 305hp to engine. That means
    305-(305*0.18) = 304-54.9 = 250.1rwhp as stock engine.

    my Mods:
    I've got bolt on mods, lid and filter (5rwhp), SLP cold air induction kit (8rwhp), smooth bellow (5rwhp), Gratenelli MAF (5rwhp), 160F thermo, cat back Corsa (15rwhp), HyperTech Programer II (10rwhp), ASP Underdrive Pulley(12rwhp).

    This dynoed the car at 315wrhp. so all those bolts on gave me only about 60-65 rwhp gain which is just about right. I did spent $850 on the Corsa, then $250 on the HPP3, and then another $300-$400 on the rest, about $1500 total which is about right for 60rwhp gain. If you were to spend $2000 on new head cyclinder it would bump you 50-60rwhp so I think I made a pretty good investment so far on the bolt ons.

    My next move is to get jet-hot long tube haders and Y pipe which will add 20-25rwhp and then
    get ls6 manifold intake adding another 10rwhp. And when I get $2-3k aside next year I can get the
    head/cam package Patriot stage III probably which will get me in the 420rwhp with a nice tune.

    PS. I did get the Eibach Pro kit lowering 1.25, it looks great.. use the stock shocks as you won't bottom out with this unless you go with 2inches springs.
    If you lower your ride and want to do LT headers and Y pipe later, you can still do it just stay away from the SLP brand since they will eat an additional 1-1.5 inch into the clearance and may scrape/bottom out every now and then.

    Way to open up a ancient thead.

    Ok you got some problems with your post. Your T/A probably has about 330 crank hp stock - these cars are underrated. You car stock is probably 280rwhp. Thus you gained about 35rwhp from your mods. 315-280= 35. not the 60+ you were dreaming of. Here are the more realistic gains for your mods: lid and filter -10rwhp, SLP cold air induction kit -0rwhp, smooth bellow -0rwhp, Gratenelli MAF -0rwhp, 160F thermo, cat back Corsa -15rwhp, HyperTech Programer II -0rwhp, ASP Underdrive Pulley -10rwhp.

  10. #10
    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    a fresh look at things. thanks for the info

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    My dyno results are in the sig at various levels of simple bolt on mod.s
    '73 Plain Jane Camaro, Gen III, T56
    '02 WS6, M6
    All gone but not forgotten

  12. #12
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    Yeah, there's really no way to estimate how much power your car gained from bolt-ons unless you dyno it before and after. All advertised performance gains are and should be treated as heresay. Most advertisers advertise their highest tested gain for any product, not the average gain. Like SLP advertises "gain up to # hp", but most people won't hit that #. Its a gimmick. You'll maybe get half.

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    My dyno run of full stock except ffor a LG lid.. ran 306/323 to the wheels... which if figureing 18% that makes around 375 crank hp.. right?I'd say thats a far cry from the 325 GM said..
    -Geno
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    Hehe back from the dead

    Now she's got:

    LM2
    Pro 5-0 w/ LSS + Hurst 6speed knob
    MTI Lid w/ K&N
    Ported TB (Done by myself, turned out really nice!)
    SLP 160* Tstat
    Tuning from a local guy w/ HP Tuners

    Hoping to add a pulley, delete the AIR, and 17or18's soon!

  15. #15
    Ross
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackLT1Z28 View Post
    Yeah, there's really no way to estimate how much power your car gained from bolt-ons unless you dyno it before and after. All advertised performance gains are and should be treated as heresay. Most advertisers advertise their highest tested gain for any product, not the average gain. Like SLP advertises "gain up to # hp", but most people won't hit that #. Its a gimmick. You'll maybe get half.
    Listen to him you cant trust the advertisers, on most of their products it will say something like up to 15hp.

  16. #16
    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    good info guys.. thanx

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    Member Ripper415's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99blueZ View Post
    Way to open up a ancient thead.

    Ok you got some problems with your post. Your T/A probably has about 330 crank hp stock - these cars are underrated. You car stock is probably 280rwhp. Thus you gained about 35rwhp from your mods. 315-280= 35. not the 60+ you were dreaming of. Here are the more realistic gains for your mods: lid and filter -10rwhp, SLP cold air induction kit -0rwhp, smooth bellow -0rwhp, Gratenelli MAF -0rwhp, 160F thermo, cat back Corsa -15rwhp, HyperTech Programer II -0rwhp, ASP Underdrive Pulley -10rwhp.
    I've heard these cars were underrated from the factory, but I highly doubt by that much. If his car is advertised at 305 it probably has 315 MAYBE 320 at the crank, no way its 330. If thats the case, my 2002 SS w/ slp dual duals should have around 360 hp instead of the 335 advertised....cmon now. also, you dont think the slp CAI will net a gain of any hp? I know they advertise a 10hp gain, so realistically you get around 5. but 5 is still more than 0. However, it is true that you dont really get the full benefit until you're going at higher speeds.

  18. #18
    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    point taken Ripper man

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    Member Phlash_riot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper415 View Post
    I've heard these cars were underrated from the factory, but I highly doubt by that much. If his car is advertised at 305 it probably has 315 MAYBE 320 at the crank, no way its 330. If thats the case, my 2002 SS w/ slp dual duals should have around 360 hp instead of the 335 advertised....cmon now. also, you dont think the slp CAI will net a gain of any hp? I know they advertise a 10hp gain, so realistically you get around 5. but 5 is still more than 0. However, it is true that you dont really get the full benefit until you're going at higher speeds.

    for ls1 engines just goto GM web site.... bah just click link below

    http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/GMPerfor...4322&engCat=ls

    third paragrahph says it all

  20. #20
    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    good info from GM link above, pasted it here in case the content disappears one day.

    LS1 engine:
    A new small-block legend in its own time!
    When GM dared to release a redesigned small-block in 1997, it succeeded beyond the expectations of enthusiasts around the world. Known as the LS Family V-8 small-block, the first and most popular version is the high-performance LS1 –available here as a complete crate engine from GM Performance Parts.
    In many ways, the LS1 is superior to any small-block that came before it. A deep-skirt, six-bolt-main block, with structural oil pan and other carefully engineered features, helps make the LS1 a strong, smooth running and dependable engine. A highlift camshaft actuating big 2.00/1.55 valves in symmetrical-port cylinder heads helps make it a uncompromised performer.
    The engine is rated at 350 horsepower and 365 lb.-ft. of torque. The engine includes a GTO-style oil pan, electronic drive-bywire throttle body, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, fuel rail with injectors, balancer, and 14" automatic transmission flexplate. It makes a great performance engine for your performance vehicle project – just add your wiring and electronics.
    A handy reference guide is available to help install the engine in older cars with minimal guesswork.

    Go high-tech with your next project!
    *Applications have not been validated. They are merely suggestions of how you might enjoy your GM Performance Parts crate engine. Some applications may affect engine warranty. Some applications may not be emission legal; check state and local ordinances.

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