How Hard To Replace A Valve Cover Gasket
This is a discussion on How Hard To Replace A Valve Cover Gasket within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by MAXX2 I'm very patient, did everything correctly, and the Valve Cover doesn't leak. Lots of test runs, ...
07-16-2010, 12:18 PM #21
Glad I could help man. Few folks care enough about v6 to work on them sometimes. But I do. It's off the beaten path so to speak, something different than always building v8 powered stuff.. Tho I enjoy working on v8's (mostly SBC's) I sorta fell in love with the sound of the 24v gm v6's.. The 3800 is'nt a 4valve motor but it's a good place to start with excellent characteristics, with a legondary past that can be traced back to wildcat days and the buick 350.. It has also recieved awards in every catagory (you can check it out) from racing to grocery gettin'.. If you need anything else just let me know.
Last edited by Smittro; 07-16-2010 at 12:21 PM.
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07-16-2010, 12:23 PM #22
A taste of what can be done with the 3800-II......
07-16-2010, 12:33 PM #23
When I finish the Twin Turbo 3.4-4cam build. I'll be moving to a modified eton on the 3800 for my next trick.. Have a good one man. As I said let me know if you need anything else..
07-16-2010, 01:38 PM #24
Thanks Forever from the both of us.
We're still looking for that 'Elusive' '98-'02 V-8-Positraction Firebird "Roller". Found a couple on Copart that we wanted, but they are always too far away. Oh, we could take the race car hauler to pick one up, but being quite a distance from us, that really eats up the $$$s that we could use to find a better one.
Take care, talk to you soon.
Richard (aka MAXX) and Judy
07-16-2010, 01:58 PM #25
Last edited by Smittro; 07-16-2010 at 02:19 PM.
07-17-2010, 11:58 AM #26
We use Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil in our Highway Driven Race Car, and Royal Purple Synthetics sponsors all of the fluids in the '97 Nascar Superspeedway Ford T-bird LSR Race Car.
Any recommendation for the Firebird on oil and trans fluids???
Take care, talk to you soon.
Richard (aka MAXX) and Judy
07-17-2010, 03:15 PM #27
Last edited by Smittro; 07-17-2010 at 03:17 PM.
07-17-2010, 04:34 PM #28
08-09-2010, 04:54 PM #29
Well, finally took the time to purchase the Oil Pan Gasket. Wow, different than what anyone is used to seeing in an oil pan gasket!!!
Any insight into how high we will have to raise the motor to pull the pan? We have the 4 post car lift, so this is easier than most would experience.
Richard, MAXX, and Judy
08-09-2010, 06:14 PM #30
08-09-2010, 06:29 PM #31
Here you go..
Oil Pan removel and install:
A: drain pan..
1) Remove the drive plate inspection cover.
2) Remove oil level sensor and dipstick.
3) 2000 and later models remove mounting bolts on the right shock absorber.
4) Support engine with engine boom/hoist..
5) Raise the engine slightly to take tension off the engine mount through bolts and remove.
6) Raise engine.
6)a: Becarefull of top clearances when raising engine..
7) 2000 and later models, it will be necessary to lower the front crossmember slightly.
8) Disconnect stearing shaft from the rack.
9) Remove the 2 right crossmember to frame bolts.
10) loosen the left crossmember to frame bolts. (not removed)
11) Remove oil pan bolts.
12) Tap the pan with soft dead blow..
Reverse to reinstall..
Yeah it will be fun..
Last edited by Smittro; 08-09-2010 at 06:39 PM.
08-10-2010, 04:39 AM #32
08-10-2010, 07:22 AM #33
08-10-2010, 01:38 PM #34
The crossover pipe was already removed, as we needed to get up and into the bracket when we did the valve cover removal and replacement. Actually, when we pulled the bad CAT, we installed a length of exhaust pipe in it's place, and used 2 SS Exhaust Bands during installation. Works great, and we are not required to Smog the car in our area of NV.
Oil drained, now on to blocking up the motor, and making sure nothing pops loose or falls down on 'ME'.
Richard, Judy, MAXX
08-15-2010, 10:10 AM #35
Well, after looking at the project, and making decisions on if we should keep the car, we're going to sell the-
Motor (40,000 miles since rebuild)/trans/wiring-computer stuff/radiator/engine cradle/AC components/oil and trans coolers/fuel lines/oil lines/hood?/drive shaft/rear end/gas tank w/new fuel pump/air bags/wheels and tires/gauge cluster/center console/misc.
We keep finding '98-'02 "Rollers" in good condition, but they sell as fast as they are listed.
We'll list the items on eBay, RacingJunk, maybe CraigsList, and the prospective buyers can come to the house, and we'll take them on a test drive. How can you beat that? Usually, the ads will state "It Ran When It Was Pulled", but they get "The Real Deal", as they know it runs like a new car. Will we get any 'Serious Buyers' listing it here on this site?
Hope it's not too hard to pull the motor? Pulled dozens over the years, but not out of one of these newer ones. We'll install the new oil pan gasket when we pull it, that way, they end up with a great motor for low $$$s.
Richard, Judy, MAXX
08-15-2010, 06:37 PM #36
10-16-2010, 01:27 PM #37
It appears the 2000 has sold on eBay, but the bidders are new to the game, so we'll see if they pay up or not.
Purchased a running '99 Thursday in Utah, which was a long, long trip (36 Hrs-1,100 miles), but it was worth it, as we paid $1,000-, and it has a clear clean title. It is a V-6, 5 speed, with a good body except for a cracked passenger front fender, and a couple of minor dings on the rear quarters.
We will part it out, including every suspension part, rear end, motor/trans, wiring/computer stuff, wheels/tires, gas tank, complete dash assembly, A/C, most likely the rear hatch/spoiler, misc. The car has ABS/4 Wheels Disk Brakes.
Will strip everything/anything off of the shell as possible, as we have to add the sanctioning body frame, and the 16 point roll cage. To get the cage correct, we will cut the top off the car, which requires pulling the brand new front windshield. Any way to do the windshield without breaking it, or should we have a pro do that???
The newly constructed frame and roll cage will first be powdercoated after fabrication, and then mated before reattaching the frame to the body of the car.
Is it worth it to advertise the parts for sale on this site, or stick with eBay, Clist, RacingJunk, and the newest site that is awesome, that being KSL.com out of Utah???
We are looking for-
*Passenger Front Fender
*Rear Trans Am Hatch/Trans Am Spoiler
*Rear Ground Effects
*Side Ground Effects
*Factory Radio/Stereo System w/Speakers
*Factory Steering Wheels w/Radio Controls
*Power Antenna w/Factory Connections-Wiring
*Electric Remote Mirrors
*2002-02 Front Fascia (Different Than ‘98-’00)
*WS6/Ram Air Hood (Maybe, if the air cleaner will fit under it???)
MAXX and Judy
10-16-2010, 05:26 PM #38
I would have a pro pull the glass if you're not familier with it's removel. They can be a pain and don't like any pressure till they are back in possition.. I'm sure folks have pulled their own windshield though.. I just would'nt, just me..
You could try selling your parts here many have.. However I have yet to sell anything here..
As for the air cleaner,, if it's a 3800 air lid then no it wont work on an LS1 f-body.. As the 3800 air lid is offset to the drivers side.. However the lower portion that doubles as a rad support will,, as well as support the LS1 lid.. Note: Except the ram air base air box is taller than others..
Last edited by Smittro; 10-16-2010 at 05:37 PM.
10-16-2010, 05:36 PM #39
Personally I usually avoid f-bodies with rear quarter damage.. My personal reason is just above that area is where the infamous "torque dimples " appear.. If you get under and actually look how the sheet metal is formed there. The whole area outside the shock mount geometry is weak and lacks hard points. I would seriously look into forward rolling track problems front to rear.. Structural sag, and check the stamped unibody LCA mount holes for "egging" and raised spot welds..
Last edited by Smittro; 10-16-2010 at 05:42 PM.
10-17-2010, 04:17 AM #40
Will have a pro pull the windshield as you indicated, as it is brand new.
On the air cleaner, the HP SBC motor has a highly modified Edl. 850 Carb, and a 14" Air Cleaner, so it might not fit under a WS6 hood.
The rear quarters on the '99 have a couple of quarter sized dents, nothing else. Remember, this car will end up with a fully fabricated frame with cross members, super heavy duty trans. cross member/mount, and fabricated rear suspension similar to the adjustable BMR stuff, so we will end up with a perfectly flat car w/no sag.
We got the correct part number from BMR for the Engine Cradle we will need, but seriously considering moving the motor back 4", so then the BMR piece wouldn't work.
MAXX and Judy
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