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headers vs. gears?

This is a discussion on headers vs. gears? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 thanks guys... alright so magarity seems to rule that i stay away from the 10 bolt ...

  1. #21
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    thanks guys... alright so magarity seems to rule that i stay away from the 10 bolt beff. a good idea i know enough about them to agree i dont know a whole lot about the 4l60e and how a stall would go on ... im sure once im in there i can figure it out but i like to know what im getting into. i know this is starting to get into more of drive train talk and this isnt the right part of the forums for this but any info on stall would be appreciated i know little about them

    thanks again everyone
    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    ooo and how much do u guys think a good stall would drop me ET wise that is? and would i need a tune for that? What would happen if it isnt tuned eith a stall?
    A good stall will shave .5 off your ET. You really need a tune with a stall as well.

    Here is a thread with good basic info about stalls, should help answer most of the basic questions about a stall:

    http://ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63857

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    Member 666ws6's Avatar
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    I'd suggest you get a converter too and maybe a shift kit. There was a write up on here somewhere. I did mine in my garage, dropped the tranny and all with jack stands. You have to take your time, but it sounds like you have the skills.

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    A good stall will shave .5 off your ET. You really need a tune with a stall as well.

    Here is a thread with good basic info about stalls, should help answer most of the basic questions about a stall:

    http://ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63857
    hey thanks for that that was very informing but its also raised a question or 2.

    how will it affect drivability? i know that in theory its getting me up to my power band sooner but also it seems to be taking away some of the rpm band itself wouldnt that hurt it alittle seeing as how the motor will only have about 3 thousnad rpms to play with instead of 5 or so??

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    Veteran Blackbird WS6's Avatar
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    the LS engine is a top end engine meaning most of its power is made in the higher rpms

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    hey thanks for that that was very informing but its also raised a question or 2.

    how will it affect drivability? i know that in theory its getting me up to my power band sooner but also it seems to be taking away some of the rpm band itself wouldnt that hurt it alittle seeing as how the motor will only have about 3 thousnad rpms to play with instead of 5 or so??
    As long as you get a convertor with a lockup(typically any convertor under 4k will have a lockup) it stops stalling and drives just like normal once its locked. Most people get around a 3200-3800 convertor for an LS1 and love it.

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    Junior Member 0-60's Avatar
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    My car goes 12.33 273 gears.. pacesetter headerss.. y pipe stock cat back lid kn.. badass tune... ls6 intake pp tb 3600 yank ss it went 12.33 109 ... a stock car wit a verter prolly goes 12.70-12.90 my car also went 13.1 bone stock..

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    sounds good thanks everyone

    alright so its become obviouse that a stall is a good way to go from herebut what kind of stall should i look for... brand wise... and remember im lookin for a bang for my buck

    also someone on here mentioned something about ebay SS headers.... what do u guys think about that i just got on and found some but im alittle nervouse about that.... any advice would be great

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    Veteran Blackbird WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    sounds good thanks everyone

    alright so its become obviouse that a stall is a good way to go from herebut what kind of stall should i look for... brand wise... and remember im lookin for a bang for my buck

    also someone on here mentioned something about ebay SS headers.... what do u guys think about that i just got on and found some but im alittle nervouse about that.... any advice would be great
    if your looking for bang for the buck the ebay stainless steel headers are a good pick IMO there are people on here that use them and like them plus there stainless steel and you could get those headers plus a y pipe for about $300+ so that could save you some money for that stall you are geting
    Last edited by Blackbird WS6; 05-12-2009 at 06:25 PM.

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    alright thanks guys as always this has been very helpful

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    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    alright thanks guys as always this has been very helpful
    just on a side note make sure you have SFC

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    the ten bolt will hold just upgrade posi track and gears a guy has a 99 ws6 with 6.0 150 nitrous 3600 stall and he does ten fours all day


    thats what im getting on mine and rear end does not make no noises like the 12 bolt or 9

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    Quote Originally Posted by lsxballs View Post
    the ten bolt will hold just upgrade posi track and gears a guy has a 99 ws6 with 6.0 150 nitrous 3600 stall and he does ten fours all day


    thats what im getting on mine and rear end does not make no noises like the 12 bolt or 9
    That is not the norm the 10 bolt is a POS plain and simple. For every guy that runs 10s on one there are a dozen others that have had issues with much less. There is a reason why most people upgrade the rear when doing serious mods and it's not because they have an endless pit of money.

    To the OP I was in the same situation as you debating headers vs. 410s. I got the gears and so far it's working great but in hindsight I would do the headers or something else. My long term goals inlcude a 9in so it was kind of foolish of me to spend the $$$ on gears I just wanted to go fast quick and cheap!

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6 View Post
    just on a side note make sure you have SFC
    i have a torque arm and LCA's so that should hold me over for alittle untill i get the money for some nice subframes

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    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    i have a torque arm and LCA's so that should hold me over for alittle untill i get the money for some nice subframes
    SFC are one of the first mods people make to these fbodys, these cars have alot of flex in them but if you need to save the money for the SFC i can understand that

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6 View Post
    SFC are one of the first mods people make to these fbodys, these cars have alot of flex in them but if you need to save the money for the SFC i can understand that
    Agreed

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    On my c4 vette I have done both a few times. On an automatic f body I would reluctantly suggest gears. other wise I prefer headers/exhaust any day. Like someone mentioned our motors make more higher rpm power, this is untrue. Our LS motors make more Torque at higher rpms. Torquey motors are always paired with lower gearing to help take advantage of the torque. Case example 1990 dodge viper. 465 lbs-torque and had a 3.08 gear. Why so low? because the motor was a truck motor and it made tons of torque. you wanted the torque to move the vehicle fast so you load it with a lower gear ratio.

    BUT, for drag racing ripping super fast starts are everything. So if you're using a drag tire and want the super fast 60 foots a gear helps you big time. thats about all it does.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5abivt View Post
    On my c4 vette I have done both a few times. On an automatic f body I would reluctantly suggest gears. other wise I prefer headers/exhaust any day. Like someone mentioned our motors make more higher rpm power, this is untrue. Our LS motors make more Torque at higher rpms. Torquey motors are always paired with lower gearing to help take advantage of the torque. Case example 1990 dodge viper. 465 lbs-torque and had a 3.08 gear. Why so low? because the motor was a truck motor and it made tons of torque. you wanted the torque to move the vehicle fast so you load it with a lower gear ratio.

    BUT, for drag racing ripping super fast starts are everything. So if you're using a drag tire and want the super fast 60 foots a gear helps you big time. thats about all it does.
    dont we top at like 3800 in our torque..compared to our hp numbers that really start to climb late in the range

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    thanks everyone for the info im not sure what im doing yet but this deff. help and right now im lookin at saving the money or headers, stall, gears, nitrous, hood or lower springs

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    just like the rest of the crowd. for strictly performance stall stall stall.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6 View Post


    and to save money you could do ebay SS headers $140-165 and a stall is the way i would go
    lol......has anybody even bought those l/t headers that are on ebay. THe ones with no brand that are around 150 bucks.......

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