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headers vs. gears?

This is a discussion on headers vs. gears? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; alright so im planning my next move with the car and i need some more input then just reading threw ...

  1. #1
    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    headers vs. gears?

    alright so im planning my next move with the car and i need some more input then just reading threw the forums. so im looking at pacesetter lts with ory or a set of 3:73's both r kits from texas speed and both r pretty evenly price (give or take 50 bucks). now my question is which one will take more off my ET ( with the proper tune according to which i do) and which one will be more difficult to install?

    the gear kit i am looking at is a set of motive gears let me know ur input or experiences with that?

    the headers im pretty set on i like pacesetters and there a good price for the quality

    Thanks again everyone

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    red
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    o yea and the car is a 98 a4

    help is much appreciated thanks everyone

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    Bang for your buck...I would say gears. As for installation, headers are much easier to do. Also if something went wrong with the gears (due to installation) that would do more damage than messing up a header install. Then again, headers might be better for you if you have done a C/H/I swap.

    just my two cents

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    well i value ur .02...now what do u think as far as performance which one would be better as of now... im trying to get into the 12s before the end of summer and i dont have alot of money to do it....i run a 13.5 now

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    do you have 2.73's or 3.23's? If you have smog to deal w/ then gears, if you don't then headers both are a good mod. You will need some tires to drop in the 12's neither mod is going to drop you in the 12's on it's own.
    The way I would look at it headers more power, better mpg(w/ foot out of it) better sound, and w/ dr's you will be in the 12's.
    You could aslo do a nitrous wet kit and be in the 12's no problem for about the same price as gears would cost after installation.

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    The gears will probably take more time off your ET. The headers are a great mod for every possible mod that will be coming up. If you can hook, the gears will probably drop you a better ET. With you being a A4, I say screw both of them if your going just for a better ET and get a stall.

    That right there, will be the best ET lowering mod you can do right now. Plus, have you ever set up a rear end before? If you were even thinking about setting it up yourself. Either way, Stall. Stall.

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    Or just say screw it, take out a loan. Buy,

    Stall
    Headers
    Stickey ass tires and,
    9".

    Just get it doen and over with, it feel good to just blow a few thousand on a trivial toy with no return on your money.

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    i would go gears, a stall would help but i think with the gears you have now you might as well just put in the 3.73s. i went from 2.73s to 3.42s and i picked up almost half of a second in the quarter mile.

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    Unbiased Opinion 67rsss's Avatar
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    I wouldn't bother throwing money into that rear. Waste of time. The headers and a good tune are your best bet right now, but start saving for a real rear end.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 67rsss View Post
    I wouldn't bother throwing money into that rear. Waste of time. The headers and a good tune are your best bet right now, but start saving for a real rear end.
    Being that he has an automatic, the rear isn't as much of an issue. Plenty of guys are running 11's with A4's with the stock 10 bolt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    o yea and the car is a 98 a4

    help is much appreciated thanks everyone
    neither, do a stall converter its the best performance upgrade for an A4.
    you can easily shave .5 tenths off your e.t
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Being that he has an automatic, the rear isn't as much of an issue. Plenty of guys are running 11's with A4's with the stock 10 bolt.
    At the same time. Plenty of people with A4's and stickey, stickey tires have blown the 10 bolt. Thing is, that 1q0 bolt is on borrowed time wheather it be modded, stock, A4/ or M6.

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    well thanks everyone as always u have all put out great info.... let me give u guys alittle more info to base ur decision on...

    as many of u know this is my last year of high school so as a high school kid i dont have alot of money..

    i dont plan on runnin stickies simply because of $$$$ haha

    i have set up a rear before it was a 96 firebird ( junk yard rear went into an 86 z28)

    i have a good bit of experince working on cars its just all been with the standard chevy small block still trying to learn with the ls1 ( ive helped with builds on 305's>dont know y 350's and 355's ive done tranny swaps and rear end swaps... all of which was in third gens so im still learning on these 4th gens

    and im not a fan of nitrous as someone said something about it( just have no experience with it and scared to try)

    the car is my only car not afriad to drop mph to much but i cant have the car for to long

    the car will be street only in the future but needs to be n the road for now

    alright fellas let me know what u think

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    A good convertor will lower your ET more than headers/exhaust or gears. I personally wouldn't do gears on a stock 10 bolt. Even though its an auto and you aren't as likely to destroy the 10 bolt(at least not as soon since you are an auto), that 10 bolt will most likely at some point blow and then the money you spent on gears could have been put towards an upgraded/stronger rearend. With an auto, I would get a stall, then do exhaust and save for better rearend, forget the gears all together for now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    A good convertor will lower your ET more than headers/exhaust or gears. I personally wouldn't do gears on a stock 10 bolt. Even though its an auto and you aren't as likely to destroy the 10 bolt(at least not as soon since you are an auto), that 10 bolt will most likely at some point blow and then the money you spent on gears could have been put towards an upgraded/stronger rearend. With an auto, I would get a stall, then do exhaust and save for better rearend, forget the gears all together for now.
    yeah your right but if he isn't going to be running super sticky tires and not going to have a stall kit, since its an automatic i think it will hold together as long as he doesn't go to crazy with mods. IMHO

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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    A good convertor will lower your ET more than headers/exhaust or gears. I personally wouldn't do gears on a stock 10 bolt. Even though its an auto and you aren't as likely to destroy the 10 bolt(at least not as soon since you are an auto), that 10 bolt will most likely at some point blow and then the money you spent on gears could have been put towards an upgraded/stronger rearend. With an auto, I would get a stall, then do exhaust and save for better rearend, forget the gears all together for now.


    and to save money you could do ebay SS headers $140-165 and a stall is the way i would go

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1998z28 View Post
    yeah your right but if he isn't going to be running super sticky tires and not going to have a stall kit, since its an automatic i think it will hold together as long as he doesn't go to crazy with mods. IMHO
    You are probably right, I just don't put much faith or trust into the 10 bolt though, I would rather play it safe when it comes to the 10 bolt though.

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    thanks guys... alright so magarity seems to rule that i stay away from the 10 bolt beff. a good idea i know enough about them to agree i dont know a whole lot about the 4l60e and how a stall would go on ... im sure once im in there i can figure it out but i like to know what im getting into. i know this is starting to get into more of drive train talk and this isnt the right part of the forums for this but any info on stall would be appreciated i know little about them

    thanks again everyone

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    Member AB'sLs1's Avatar
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    ooo and how much do u guys think a good stall would drop me ET wise that is? and would i need a tune for that? What would happen if it isnt tuned eith a stall?

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    Quote Originally Posted by AB'sLs1 View Post
    thanks guys... alright so magarity seems to rule that i stay away from the 10 bolt beff. a good idea i know enough about them to agree i dont know a whole lot about the 4l60e and how a stall would go on ... im sure once im in there i can figure it out but i like to know what im getting into. i know this is starting to get into more of drive train talk and this isnt the right part of the forums for this but any info on stall would be appreciated i know little about them

    thanks again everyone
    3600-3800 stall IMO

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