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header install in pics

This is a discussion on header install in pics within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by T/A98 ^^^ what the hell Wait so you dont have to pull the motor to install the ...

  1. #101
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T/A98 View Post
    ^^^ what the hell
    Wait so you dont have to pull the motor to install the headers?!?!?!?!?!?!







  2. #102
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    and you can use milk crates instead of jack stands

  3. #103
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    2001 3.8 Black - sold
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    so if youre in texas....want to come install mine? lol....or have my come to you?

    ill give you a case of beer

  4. #104
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    it will take more than a case of beer

  5. #105
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    Navy Blue, Dark Cherry
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    The OP seems to have done almost exactly what I am in the process of doing and already has some great pictures, so rather than create another thread I figured Iíd just add my 2 cents from my build;

    Just installed (almost finished) a set of TSP headers myself this weekend. Doing motor mounts at the same time so I did have to remove the alternator and unbolt the AC and swing it to the side to get the mounts out. I also removed the starter and from there it was a pretty simple passenger side header install from the bottom.

    Drivers side was more difficult from the bottom or top, I tried unbolting the coils and swinging them to the side and going in from the top but it wouldn't go no matter how I wiggled it. I would have removed the steering shaft but it wasn't hanging up on it. So I tried from the bottom again and it seemed to be catching on the motor mount stand (not sure if thatís the correct term for it) but the bracket that connects the motor mount to the K-Frame. So after removing that it slid in 95% of the way no problem, removed the small bracket that holds the back of the alternator to the block and it was in.

    So I'm in the home stretch, all the old stuff out, EGR removed, but still need to make or buy a block off. New Motor mounts in; I just have 2 bolts to finish reconnecting the driverís side. It looks like Iíll have to trim the corner of the poly part of the motor mount to get the last 2 bolts in. They stick outside of the clam shell a lot more that factory so itís not allowing the bolts to go straight in and I really donít want to strip out a motor mount into the aluminum block. Both headers are in and all bolted up, all spark plugs are in and passenger side wires are back on (didnít want to reinstall drivers side until Iím sure I have that mount totally finished in case I need the room).

    For those interested it took me alone about 8 hours to get the entire factory exhaust out, the accessories disconnected and the motor mounts out in my driveway with jack stands and ramps, bottom of the car about 18" off the ground (I'll measure it tomorrow to get exact # but it's not too high). It took me another 8 hours or so to get the headers and motor mounts back in and all reconnected including spark plugs. I figure a second set of hands would have shaved a couple hours off of each day more than likely. Iíll update with progress and pictures when I have time. Hope to get Y-pipe and tranny mount in as soon as possible and my ECM should be arriving at Frost for a tune tomorrow. Tomorrow might be a sick day as far as my office knows we'll see.

  6. #106
    I need some money huggerls1's Avatar
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    I always thought it was common knowledge that if u put the drivers side header vertical it slides right in but u need to raise the car up higher than 18 inches. Now when I did my motor mounts I already had my headers in so I had to take them out again. I never removed the starter and alternator or air conditioner. Those mm were a bitch. Longest job I've ever done.

    Recap. Driver side header goes in easy vertical with car high enough. U don't need to take unnecessary parts off.

    Motor mounts u might want to take the starter or other parts off.

    Just my 2 cents. Now that I've basically done my headers twice. I could probably get them in and out in less than an hour

  7. #107
    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huggerls1 View Post
    I always thought it was common knowledge that if u put the drivers side header vertical it slides right in but u need to raise the car up higher than 18 inches. Now when I did my motor mounts I already had my headers in so I had to take them out again. I never removed the starter and alternator or air conditioner. Those mm were a bitch. Longest job I've ever done.

    Recap. Driver side header goes in easy vertical with car high enough. U don't need to take unnecessary parts off.

    Motor mounts u might want to take the starter or other parts off.

    Just my 2 cents. Now that I've basically done my headers twice. I could probably get them in and out in less than an hour
    Hmm, I never got the drivers header in far enough that it hit the ground from the top, it's all in now or I would have tried again maybe next time. I had to remove the alternator and disconnect the AC to get the main motor mount bolts out, no way around it unless you remove the motor mount brackets also (which i eventually did on the drivers side anyway.

    Yes the Motor Mounts are a Bitch, only upside to doing mine was they were soo beat, I didn'd need a torch to release the rubber from the clamshell, they fell out . If I were to do it again I'd reinstall headers first but leave them really loose, then install the motor mounts and tighten the headers after the mounts are totally in.

    Anyway, all back together just waiting for the ECM to come back from Frost. I am a little disappointed with the TPS Y-pipe, I got it all together and bolted up OK but it hangs lower than I'd like and doesn't seem to fit well under the car, I wasn't able to get the crossmember back in because it hung so low and had no room to move it higher before it would contact the torque arm or driveshaft. Also the Y pipe goes from 2x 3" pipes into the Y and then tapers down to a 2.5" pipe and my aftermarket cat back is a 3" so no amount of clamping force would make it tight. I'll have to bring it to an exhaust shop and see if they can't work some magic on it.

  8. #108
    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    Navy Blue, Dark Cherry
    98 M6 TA, 87 A4 TA

    Some pictures of my install;
    TSP Headers:



    TSP ORY, notice the 3"collector pipes coming together and then being necked down to something like 2.5" way to small to connect to my aftermarket 3" cat back, It will have to be redone at a exhaust shop:

    Prothane Poly Motor/Tranny Mount:
    Last edited by TransAmX2; 05-15-2011 at 08:27 PM.

  9. #109
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    Old Motor Mounts in clam shell (these where whooped, actually loose inside clamshell, my shifter would move 1" under hard accel/decell):

    Old motor mounts next to new:

    Painted old clamshells:

    Reassembled clamshell with new mount:

    Old Tranny Mount next to new (old mount was worn and torn):
    Last edited by TransAmX2; 05-15-2011 at 08:09 PM.

  10. #110
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    Navy Blue, Dark Cherry
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    Headers going in; Passanger side first from bottom:


    Drivers side would not go in from top :/


    Did go in from bottom after removing Alternator mount and motor mount(not saying this is the way you have to do it, just the way it worked for me)
    Last edited by TransAmX2; 05-15-2011 at 08:30 PM.

  11. #111
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    Off Road Y-pipe going in, With my faithful assistant helping

    Y-pipe fitment was inconsistant, some pieces needed to be worked to go together others were 1/8" loose and it seems to hang a bit lower than I'd like:


    Car on ground, notice the 2.5" necked down Y-pipe loose in the 3" cat back, clamp is doing nothing, but it will stay together untill I get it to an exhaust shop:

    As soon as I get my ECM back, I plan to take it to a local exhaust shop and have them tweak it a bit and likely weld up the Y-pipe connections leaving band clamps to the headers and 1 band clamp over the rear axle.
    Last edited by TransAmX2; 05-15-2011 at 08:37 PM.

  12. #112
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    "Free" EGR Plug, Take the old EGR pipe from the top of the intake and remove rubber gasket (Mine was already modified and the "dong" was cut off to make it more free flowing in the intake) Use a pipe cutter (or possibly careful hacksawing) to cut the plate free below where the gasket sits:

    After it's cut free, you can cut the pipe to remove the plate.

    Cut out a piece of aluminum to fit in the step of the plate:


    A Little JB Weld, smoothed out inside and out, and reapply gasket:


    reinstall in manifold:
    Last edited by TransAmX2; 05-15-2011 at 08:52 PM.

  13. #113
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    Both headers go in easily from the underneath of the car. That y pipe fitment looks terrible. I guess I'm glad I spent the extra money on the kooks headers and y. Not one hassle.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by huggerls1 View Post
    Both headers go in easily from the underneath of the car. That y pipe fitment looks terrible. I guess I'm glad I spent the extra money on the kooks headers and y. Not one hassle.
    I like the headers, they seem to fit well, the passanger side appears to hang down a little more than the drivers side, but I'm waiting 'till I take it to a shop and see what kind of adjustments can be made before I start complaining too much. I don't pretend to be an exhaust expert.

    and I just now realized what you ment
    Quote Originally Posted by huggerls1 View Post
    I always thought it was common knowledge that if u put the drivers side header vertical it slides right in but u need to raise the car up higher than 18 inches.
    Vertical in from the bottom, for some reason I automatically assumed you ment vertical from the top, my bad
    Last edited by TransAmX2; 05-15-2011 at 09:08 PM.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by TransAmX2 View Post
    I like the headers, they seem to fit well, the passanger side appears to hang down a little more than the drivers side, but I'm waiting 'till I take it to a shop and see what kind of adjustments can be made before I start complaining too much. I don't pretend to be an exhaust expert.
    Well good luck hope all goes well after the adjustments.

  16. #116
    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    Thanks, me 2

    1 more of my car in the air, just for a basic idea of how high i had it:

    Milk crate is holding up the collector of the header while I try to start bolts without it falling out the bottom.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjsingle1 View Post
    Click for full size

    TSP ORY.......looks good on paper.....but on fitment.....not so much
    Did you order that ORY from the texas speed website for $129? It looks totally different on their site. And is that three inches at the outlet?

  18. #118
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TransAmX2 View Post
    Thanks, me 2

    1 more of my car in the air, just for a basic idea of how high i had it:
    Click for full size
    Milk crate is holding up the collector of the header while I try to start bolts without it falling out the bottom.
    nice job bro,,, thanks for this pic..lol now i have an idean on how high my car has to be on the air..lol... how long did it take u to get it done?? any mecahnical experience??

    i want to do mine but im scared

  19. #119
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    sjsingle1,, what headers are those?? how was the fitment on them??

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    nice job bro,,, thanks for this pic..lol now i have an idean on how high my car has to be on the air..lol... how long did it take u to get it done?? any mecahnical experience??

    i want to do mine but im scared
    If u can u will want to get the car a little higher than that. The pass side header will slide right in but the driver side u need to put the header vertical then slide it in. So the higher the better

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