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Header Install

This is a discussion on Header Install within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by thirdavesav Yeah there was not much problems with the passenger side it slided through fine, except that ...

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirdavesav View Post
    Yeah there was not much problems with the passenger side it slided through fine, except that the K-member is very close to the header. According to the header install directions on the post the K-member needs to be grinded down so I will be doing that on the passenger and driver side. I just tried to slide in the driver side header, but unfortunately I wasn't lucky enough to get it through. I will post a picture of the header on the passenger side. Now I have to wait another week to install the driver side header, another long week of waiting patiently.

    I did have to clearance the K-member flange on the driver side about 1/8" to get the header up in place. There's a square protrusion on the side of the engine block that I just could not get past. Will await pics.

  2. #62
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I did have to clearance the K-member flange on the driver side about 1/8" to get the header up in place. There's a square protrusion on the side of the engine block that I just could not get past. Will await pics.
    Mine was tight at the K-member and on that square piece but I didn't modify it. Sure, it was tight, but it fit- the square peice and the header are both fixed so they shouldn't rub, but the K shouldn't be an issue since the poly mounts won't let it move much. I'm keeping an eye on it to make sure that the pipe isn't rubbing the K, but so far so good.

  3. #63
    Rx:DoubleDoseZ-28 thirdavesav's Avatar
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    Okay... I unbolted the DS motor mount from the K-Member side and jacked up the motor for more clearance. I then tried to install the header and it still isn't sliding through. It still appears to be caught between the K-Member and block (machined lip where the oil filter is placed). Here is a pic of where the header is making contact with the K-Member and motor.




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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I couldn't get my drivers side Kooks header in very easily either. I suspect if I had it up higher on a hoist I would have been able to twist it up in there better.
    I had to remove the motor mount stand from the car, slide the header up in there, loosely hold it up there with one loosely threaded in bolt and then reinstall the motor mount stand.

  5. #65
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    I ended up shaving the K a little. If I were you, start with the K- you've got over a 1/4 inch you can shave and smooth. Try that first. I wouldn't go about messing with machined lip at the oil filter. If it's hitting that lip, most likely your oil filter is going to hit as well and that'll never work.

  6. #66
    Member 98Z28CamaroJG's Avatar
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    Hey! I just bought the race style pacesetter headers, and i'm taking out the EGR and AIR. Where do i get the block off plates for removing those?

  7. #67
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Z28CamaroJG View Post
    Hey! I just bought the race style pacesetter headers, and i'm taking out the EGR and AIR. Where do i get the block off plates for removing those?
    kyspeed or ws6store is where i would go.

  8. #68
    Junior Member johnnybbb's Avatar
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    dude you ROCK!

    I just wish I had a friend close to me that likes to wrench like you do.

    Awesome pics and titles/instructions/watch-outs

    Thank you!

    J




    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie669 View Post
    Install
    - NOTE - Before starting, make sure you have all your parts and tools, test fit anything such as y-pipe to verify fitment. You donít want to be stuck with a part that doesnít fit.

    - Remove negative battery cable (or both if u wanna).

    - Jack the car up and put it on stands or lift if your lucky enough. I did the whole install with only 18Ē of lift, but made for a very unpleasant experience on my back (sure thatís how my first gf felt).

    - OPTIONAL - Remove 13mm bolts holding starter in place and carefully wiggle it free. Then remove the 8mm nut holding lead to ignition and 13mm nut and power wire and remove starter. I didnít follow this step and it was a non-issue for me.

    - Take apart anything that might be in your way in the engine bay. I removed my Fuel Rail Covers.
    Click for full size

    - Remove AIR provisions from your manifold using 10mm ratchet and good extensions. Once off I used a flathead screwdriver to remove the metal AIR pipe from the hose.
    Click for full size


    Time to go under the carÖ
    - Remove the four bolts holding the cross brace that sits right underneath your Y-pipe 15mm if I recall. My new 3Ē Y-pipe didnít clear so I left it off. Others have shimmed and reinstalled it after
    Click for full size

    - Now itís time to remove the stock Y-pipe using a 15mm ratchet and some brute force. (Arenít you glad you used pbblaster now). The flange piece that molds to the cats was the hardest part here.
    - OPTIONAL Ė Some people have cut theirs off with a sawzall.
    Click for full size

    - After you loosened the Y-pipe from the cats, go ahead and remove any extra clamps or mounts holding the Y-pipe in.
    Click for full size

    - Now you should be able to gently remove the stock Y-pipe and get it out of your way.

    - Remove your 02 sensor connections from the car.

    - OPTIONAL - If you plan on reusing your 02ís, I would now go and using the 7/8ís wrench take them out. Mine were near impossible and I was only able to remove one out of four. I later took a benzo torch and heated them up (about 5-8 seconds) where the 02ís meet with the piping. They popped right off without any effort. Otherwise, you can leave them in the cats.

    - Now remove your catalytic converters using the same 15mm wrench. You may need some extensions, and definitely a lot of oomph to get these off. Try pb blasting again if your having trouble. I was able to get my driver side off, but left the passenger cat attached to the header and removed without a problem (later separated by benzo torch)
    Click for full size


    Now we can go back into the engine bayÖ

    Throw a blanket or fender mat over your fender for whichever side you are working on. You donít want your clothes scuffing/scratching your paint while your upgrading your car. Might also need a small stepping stool (or if your like TS|S, a ladder).
    Click for full size

    -Remove the 10 bolts from the coil pack assembly (5 on each side) using a 10mm deep socket or ratcheting wrench (99-02 cars, 98 cars will have to remove them one by one) . They look like a basic 10mm bolt with a long point top. You will start thinking how easy this is, but when you hit the 5th bolt, they get pretty unpleasant. You donít have to put that one back when youíre done. Driver side had an extra bolt holding my AIR provision piece in place also. Also, remove the wiring harness before removing.
    Iíve previously done a spark plug install and did NOT put the #5 back one back onto the coil packs. Made life much easier for this install.
    Click for full size

    -Remove dipstick tube by unbolting 15mm bolt that holds the bracket to the head. Before just lifting it out, go back under and follow the tube down to know how it sits in the block for reinstall later.
    Click for full size

    Time for the dreaded spark plug removal. At this point, this should be super easy with the exhaust and emissions removed. (pic is removing #8)
    Click for full size

    - Remove the spark plug wires using the 5/8ís plug socket. With everything removed you should be able to get all eight from either the top or bottom with basic ratchet, socket and a single extension. (DAMNÖ It wasnít that easy my first time).
    Click for full size

    - Hopefully you have a friend handy now. Remove the six header bolts 10mm carefully and you can slide the header down and out. Take the gasket and bolts and put them somewhere safely if you plan on reusing.

    You should now have all of your old crap out and those shiny parts that have been calling to you can come out of the corner now.
    Click for full size

    - OPTIONAL - If you plan on doing motor mounts, now would be the time. Go find that thread and come back here when youíre done.

    Using new gasket and header bolts or reusing stockers go to the next step.

    - The passenger side header should slide in with minimal effort. You will either want a jack or a friend holding the header steady while you line up the gasket and put in the bolts. Rethread the bolts starting in the center and work your way out evenly. Torque to 11 ft lbs starting in the center and work your way out evenly. Then go back over at 18 ft lbs. Donít forget ant seize
    Click for full size


    Driver side can be quite a bit more effort

    - Gently slide it the header up and keep an eye for clearances. If god has blessed you, it will slide in. If your mortal like the rest of us, you will need to take some additional steps. Find where the problem is and the following are the typical solutions Iíve heard of.:
    - With the new motor mounts, the problem may be solved
    - Some will remove the DS motor mount bolts and slightly jack the motor to allow the header to slide in.
    - Some remove the Trans mount bolt and lift the rear of the trans up and the header slides right in (automatic cars?)
    - Some have had to grind the K-member back slightly
    - Massaging the firewall
    - Some have had to Remove oil pan drain plug and oil filter

    Mine was catching on the firewall and K member. I tried ďmassaging the firewall slightly where it was catching. I still had an issue and shaved the K-member back slightly and after another test fitting hammered back a lip that was catching the back tab on the firewall. Header went in without any more grief.

    - Same as passenger side. Slide in and line up the gasket, work from center out and torque to 11 ft lbs then 18 ft lbs. Donít forget ant seize
    Click for full size

    - Reinstall your existing or new spark plugs now and snug up. Donít forget ant seize

    - Put your stock or new wires onto the plugs
    - Reinstall your AIR provisions or install the block off plates now.

    - Put your coil packs back on and snug up bolts Remember that #5 bolt? Put him in a Ziploc back and keep with all your other T/A keepsakes for a rainy day. Then reattach the plug wires to the coils. For first two days I only put two of the bolts on because I was going to pull and recheck all my bolts.

    - Go back under your car and either put the stock 02ís with extension or corvette 02ís on now.

    - OPTIONAL Ė start up the car and giggle like a little girlÖ..

    - Y-pipe install might vary, but basically test fit and then install. Leave everything loose until you have it how you like. Then tighten everything back up. (check out the difference between stock and TSP
    Click for full size

    - OPTIONAL Ė finish removing AIR System

    - Go back over and make sure that you have reattached all your wiring harness (around coil packs, 02ís)

    Time for a tune now!!!

    Contributors
    THANKS,
    01ws6er
    Noscamaro
    02transamce
    patrik

    Special Thanks to the arborbarbor!!! Great guy

  9. #69
    Member Faught's Avatar
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    any 1 got tips on getting the y pipe bolts off the exhaust manifolds? i could not get them suckers off w/ an breaker bar or an impact wrench, sprayed em down with some break free, and even tried wd40.

  10. #70
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I believe I snapped more then half of mine when I did my removed my stock setup.

  11. #71
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Spray the bolts down with PB Blaster and let it soak. Mine came right off. If that doesn't work, get a torch and heat them up. If that doesn't work, cut the SOB's off- you don't need to reuse them anyway!

  12. #72
    Member Faught's Avatar
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    cool thx ill try it

  13. #73
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
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    Also, i recommended this in my own how to install for OBX headers, after jacking the car up, soak em in PB blaster over night, then in the morning of, spray em again and then warm the car up for about 5 or ten minutes. the amount of tim eit would take for you to walk to you fridgeand get a beer or a cup of coffee then shut it off. the heat helps loosen the bolts a bit and makes for working on other parts easier. warm bolts are easier the stone cold ones helped me. I only snapped off two on my cat to manifold bolts and accually used then bolt my y pipe to the Y-pipe mounting bracket

  14. #74
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    when i did mine i slid them in from the top but i did it in a parking lot by my self.

  15. #75
    **Te@M fBoDy** fbodyNATION's Avatar
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    Nice write up we needed that info

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    Junior Member hippiespace's Avatar
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    Dude this thread is extremely helpful. I am putting BBK LT headers on my car as soon as I get the last few small parts together. My question for you is about the EGR block off plate I see where they need to go is there any kind of plug I can put in the threaded union where the tube transfers to metal. I would prefer not to have those hoses hanging free over the new headers and I am not sure where the air block off is needed.
    Thanks again for posting this thread and any additional help.

  17. #77
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    What you do is get a set of block off plates like this, bolt them to the manifolds or headers, and remove all the hoses/pipes for the AIR and EGR

  18. #78
    Junior Member hippiespace's Avatar
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    Thanks... after much research the past couple of hours I found out that 2002 models don't have an EGR (I got a little confused when I couldn't find it) so I just need to take out the air system and the new headers don't have EGR connections on them so I should be all good

  19. #79
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Did you get headers without the EGR and AIR connections? If you did you're okay, otherwise you'll need the block-off plates for the holes in the headers.
    2000 Pontiac Firehawk #0041 of 742

  20. #80
    Junior Member hippiespace's Avatar
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    The headers I bought have no EGR or AIR connection. I'm just waiting for a few small parts to come so I can put the headers and cut outs on. The anticipation is killing me I can't wait to hear my baby pur.

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