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fuel injector question

This is a discussion on fuel injector question within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So I'm starting my swap over to my FAST 92 and I got my fuel rail off with the injectors ...

  1. #1
    Member 1998 T/A's Avatar
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    fuel injector question

    So I'm starting my swap over to my FAST 92 and I got my fuel rail off with the injectors but it was super difficult, I had to put it on the ground and pull up pretty hard to get them to pop. I didn't break anything off but is it usually that difficul? I was inspecting the injectors and the o-rings basically broke off at the slightest touch. I decided to go a different route with my build so the heads and cam are waiting and I'm focusing on the suspension and rear end. That being said should I just replace the o-rings or go with new injectors? I'm getting a FAST fuel rail with higher volume because I found a good deal and I'll need it later on
    98' Trans AM RIP

    00' WS6/Black/Pacesetter LT's/Magnaflow Exhaust/SLP lid/Nick Williams 92mm TB/FAST 92 Intake/BMR Strut Tower Brace/BMR Rear LCA's/BMR Panhard Bar

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    You can always swap them out later. Since the power levels will not be changing at this time no need to replace them. Spend your $$ on the back half and just come back to the injectors when the time comes for the engine build. Also, if you swap them now, you'll need to modify your tune to accommodate their flow characteristics... and then modify it again when you add the cam and heads.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    ^^What he said.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Member 1998 T/A's Avatar
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    Gotcha...I ordered new o rings so I'll just replace those and keep injectors. Since we have this rolling I don't plan to make over 450 rwhp or lower the car so would it matter if I did just a regular torque arm instead of an adjustable?

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    As long as you are getting it off the transmission and mounted to the crossmember in the front, either will work fine for your application.

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    Member 1998 T/A's Avatar
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    fuel injector question

    and control arms am I gaining anything by going to adjustable ones?

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    personally I would get an adjustable torque arm at least so you can set your pinion angle.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1998 T/A View Post
    and control arms am I gaining anything by going to adjustable ones?
    Adjustable anything always gives you flexibility. Are your wheels centered from front to back inside the wheel wells currently? If not, adjustable lower control arms will allow you to make that adjustment.

    I am running non-adjustable lower control arms on my setup. I have a Moser 9" and am lowered also (Sam Strano springs) and do not have any centering issues with a 275 40R17 tire, which is the OEM tire size for my vehicle.

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    Member 1998 T/A's Avatar
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    I don't believe I have any centering issues and I don't intend to deviate from my stock ws6 rims...at least not anytime soon. I'm just ignorant on how to use the adjustable and accurately calculate that shit.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I'd just get non-adjustable lower control arms. Orion makes a good point on the adjustable torque arm though. Pinion angle set correctly will help with both launching the car and keeping the drivetrain in order (example: less wheel hop). That'll destroy a rearend quickly.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    there's plenty of info out on how to adjust everything. I went with non-adjustable control arms but an adjustable torque arm. I would also recommend control arm relocation brackets. As long as you have them off may as well throw them on there to help with traction. Most people get weld on brackets but I went with bolt on brackets and have had no issues with them the last umpteen years I've had them on there.

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    Member 1998 T/A's Avatar
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    I read a lot of people have noise from the adjustable torque arms...it's a summer car but I do take it on hour or so highway drives and I know it would drive me nuts. Is there anyway to quite up the cabin maybe dynomat?

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    Junior Member 99ss405's Avatar
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    I have no noise ... and I used metcolower control arms ... but my 17yr old daughter drives it daily no compaints out of her

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    The worst offender for noise is the tunnel mount torque arm setup - which is generally utilized in cars that see action on the strip. I agree that the old style heim joints could generate noise, especially if the through bolt wasn't quite large enough for the barrel. UMI now has rotojoints and I would recommend these if you wish to upgrade. The only adjustable suspension piece under our car in the back is the tunnel mount torque arm.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I also have a tunnel-mount torque arm set-up and don't really hear any noise tbh. Then again, my car is a dumb loud.

    I'll add - the tunnel (underframe of the vehicle) above the tunnel-mount torque arm will typically need some massaging for clearance. BFH mod.

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