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Final checklist before header install.

This is a discussion on Final checklist before header install. within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Well fellas, i finally got some hooker long tubes for the ol' girl, and like the title says im just ...

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    slammed RAWPWR3's Avatar
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    Final checklist before header install.

    Well fellas, i finally got some hooker long tubes for the ol' girl, and like the title says im just doin' some last minute research before i go through with the install. Im gonna have to get me some o2 sims, what im not so sure about is where they go. On the collector of the header there is a bung welded for the sensor, and the headers came with extensions for the sensors. My question is, are the extensions and o2 sims taking the place of the first sensors, (the ones before the cats?) on the collector of the headers? If so what happens to the ones after the cats, im not gonna be running cats , so obviously im not going to be using them, so it will throw a code even if the o2 sims are in the collectors, correct? Also, ive read that when installing hookers the steering shaft and oil diverter plate has to be removed. Is this so? Thanks in advance fellas, an' sorry for the long post.

    Yulian

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Ok, I have an LT1 and not 100% on the LS1 but I'll try to help you out. The O2 sims go where the 2nd set of O2 sensors go, that is, after the cats. The 1st set (before the cats) don't need sims because they read the exhaust before going through the cats, the ones after are the ones that read how much oxygen is in the exhaust after the cats. You'll need the sims after the cats so you don't throw codes when you delete the cats.

    On the install, you will need to remove the steering knuckle to make room to slide the header in. Good luck. Take your time and use plenty of penetrating oil.

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Like said above, I would pick up a set of pre-maid 02 extensions,The make the wire long enough for the front two sensors. it makes life easier and more secure. It comes in two lengths 12" and 24". The 02 sims go into where the rear 02's plugged in. On either side of the tranny. The front two should have bungs welded in and thats were your actual 02 sensors go. Dont use the paper gaskets if ya got them make sure you pick up some others. As far as removing the steering knu. I have heard a few people doing it but you shouldnt have too. Make sure you get the car high enough into the air and you should be good too go. When you plug the 02 sims into the rear it should not set off the check engine light.
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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    Member 89LX's Avatar
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    Tools for Exhaust

    Plenty of penetrating oil like the gentleman said and I had to get a 1/2" drive extension, breaker bar and deep socket (15mm) for the exhaust, cats, etc. 5/8" deep well will work (not a tight fit) unless they are really froze then you run the danger of stripping the nut.

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    Thanks alot fellas i appreciate all the input. And thanks for bringing it up "sunsetorangess" about the gaskets, i've read that the factory GM metal ones work better than paper ones, my question is should i reuse the ones that are currently on my car (my car only has 11,000 mi.) or just go ahead an' get new ones? And one last thing, should i just go ahead and replace my plugs with better ones. Ive read that during the removal of the exaust manifolds they can get f@#ked up. If so which brand. Thanks again guys.

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    If it only has 11,XXX miles on it i wouldnt worry about changing the plugs unless you really want too. I also would not re-use the gaskets bc The new ones are pretty cheap and trust me you dont wanna have too pull them back off bc they are leaking. I would recommend the gm gaskets thou. personaly i didnt remove the plugs when instailing as long as you are cautious. To be safe you can go ahead and pull them out befor the removal/instail of your headers.
    J

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    Member 89LX's Avatar
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    Plugs and Wires

    I have my 2000 Z28 torn down for headers. I opted to change plugs (AC)and wires. The plugs looked fine at 42K and had no running issues. I just wasn't sure and didn't want to take a chance and have to change later (what a pain). I'm using TR55 NGK and MSD wires. The exhaust gasket is a Seal-4-Good multi layer with filler (expensive but so are these cars). Good luck

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    Also, make sure to use anti-seize on the header bolts. And GM metal gaskets are what I used and recommend. I also pulled my plugs, but they were new and I didn't want to break them.

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    OK guys, thanks again but i got one last question. This time about the hardware. The headers brought some bolts and lockwashers but they look kinda cheesy to me. I was thinking maybe some nice stainless stuff would do better or some of those locking nuts that thunder racing sells if they're any good. Or would the stockers with some anti-seize, like mentioned above be fine. Thanks again.

    Yulian

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    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    I think the supplied hardware should be fine. But DON'T reuse the stock bolts. If you want to, you can order some ARP bolts or something, but I think you'll be fine with the supplied ones.

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    Thanks again man i appreciate it, and thanks to everyone else for all the input. I should be doing the install as soon as i get all the little odds an' ends sorted out. But i feel much better about doing it now. Thanks again fellas!

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    I have the stage8 locking bolts, kinda of a pain to install, and they go for around 50 bucks but it beats having to retorq if they ever come loose

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    Why were they such a pain to install? Are they alot bulkier than say youre typical bolt and washer setup.

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    Maybe I just have fat fingers. I just found it hard to try and push the c clips on the back cylinders. time consuming and fustraiting.

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