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DIY Throttle Body Porting

This is a discussion on DIY Throttle Body Porting within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I've been on youtube and stuff checking out how-to vids on TB porting. Very helpful stuff... but I'm kinda scared ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    DIY Throttle Body Porting

    I've been on youtube and stuff checking out how-to vids on TB porting. Very helpful stuff... but I'm kinda scared to do it to my only TB...

    Here are my concerns:

    1) How do I determine the best size (opening) ?

    2) How do I know when I'm finished?

    3) What precautions can I take to make sure I don't mess it up?

    4) What are the common (and not so common) mistakes people make when they attempt this for themselves?

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    it was worth it to pay 50$ to get it done

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    It's rather easy if you take a good look at your throttle body.
    The opening actually gets smaller than the blade then opens back up, when you port it your basically making a smooth transition from the opening to the blade

    I had a pic that gave a pretty good idea of it but i lost it
    If you want i can draw one up real quick

  4. #4
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    I've been on youtube and stuff checking out how-to vids on TB porting. Very helpful stuff... but I'm kinda scared to do it to my only TB...

    Here are my concerns:

    1) How do I determine the best size (opening) ?

    2) How do I know when I'm finished?

    3) What precautions can I take to make sure I don't mess it up?

    4) What are the common (and not so common) mistakes people make when they attempt this for themselves?
    1. the larger the front is opened up the better.. HOWEVER, be carefull to stay within reason as if you make the TB wall too thin it will crack or break..

    2. Once you removed the desired material you can then move to polishing the bore. Avoiding the ventury area.. But you can polish right up to it.. Hand sanding works well moving in a circular motion from about 500-1000-1500-2000 git sand papers. But you can also use a moto tool (be carefull) to remove material and to polish..

    3. Never change the ventury bore. It's the area where the butterfly is.. That area is milled specifically for the blade (butterfly) changing its dimensions will cause problems..

    4. One thing that is easy to have happen is damaging the ventury bore.. Like said, this will cause troubles..

    The other could easily be opening up the rear bore too much..

    The rear bore behind the ventury should not exceed the size of your intake manifold inlet diameter..

    Here is some pics of my in house custom built/ported TB from my TT project hope this helps.. Good luck.










    All in all, it's very easy to port/polish these youself..
    Take your time, have an eye for detail, and you can tackle this yourself no prob..imho..
    Last edited by Smittro; 03-11-2011 at 02:23 AM. Reason: added some details
    :\Users\Steven\Pictures\d6ftg5nh.gif


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  5. #5
    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    it really doesnt make a huge difference unless u get it tuned for that, just like removing the screen.... atleast thats what my tuner told me

  6. #6
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunatikgixxer View Post
    it really doesnt make a huge difference unless u get it tuned for that, just like removing the screen.... atleast thats what my tuner told me
    increased throttle response

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    if you do it yourself or not......i do like my PP TB....and i recommend it

  8. #8
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    1. the larger the front is opened up the better.. HOWEVER, be carefull to stay within reason as if you make the TB wall too thin it will crack or break..

    2. Once you removed the desired material you can then move to polishing the bore. Avoiding the ventury area.. But you can polish right up to it.. Hand sanding works well moving in a circular motion from about 500-1000-1500-2000 git sand papers. But you can also use a moto tool (be carefull) to remove material and to polish..

    3. Never change the ventury bore. It's the area where the butterfly is.. That area is milled specifically for the blade (butterfly) changing its dimensions will cause problems..

    4. One thing that is easy to have happen is damaging the ventury bore.. Like said, this will cause troubles..

    The other could easily be opening up the rear bore too much..

    The rear bore behind the ventury should not exceed the size of your intake manifold inlet diameter..

    Here is some pics of my in house custom built/ported TB from my TT project hope this helps.. Good luck.
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size

    All in all, it's very easy to port/polish these youself..
    Take your time, have an eye for detail, and you can tackle this yourself no prob..imho..
    I agree here. Alot of having the right tools for the job makes this project easier or harder. I'm not sure what tools you do/don't have, but things even like a drill press could make this job alot easier than a dewalt drill obviously. So if you already have all of the holesaws, sandpaper, and dremel tips, I'd say give it a swing! If not, I'm with sjsingle on this, $50 and call it done if you don't want to spend the ~$200 for new aftermarket one.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    It's rather easy if you take a good look at your throttle body.
    The opening actually gets smaller than the blade then opens back up, when you port it your basically making a smooth transition from the opening to the blade

    I had a pic that gave a pretty good idea of it but i lost it
    If you want i can draw one up real quick
    I've actually read a thread where you were explaining it... I think you gave me a good understanding of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    1. the larger the front is opened up the better.. HOWEVER, be carefull to stay within reason as if you make the TB wall too thin it will crack or break..

    2. Once you removed the desired material you can then move to polishing the bore. Avoiding the ventury area.. But you can polish right up to it.. Hand sanding works well moving in a circular motion from about 500-1000-1500-2000 git sand papers. But you can also use a moto tool (be carefull) to remove material and to polish..

    3. Never change the ventury bore. It's the area where the butterfly is.. That area is milled specifically for the blade (butterfly) changing its dimensions will cause problems..

    4. One thing that is easy to have happen is damaging the ventury bore.. Like said, this will cause troubles..

    The other could easily be opening up the rear bore too much..

    The rear bore behind the ventury should not exceed the size of your intake manifold inlet diameter..

    Here is some pics of my in house custom built/ported TB from my TT project hope this helps.. Good luck.

    All in all, it's very easy to port/polish these youself..
    Take your time, have an eye for detail, and you can tackle this yourself no prob..imho..
    Effin Awesome! Great feedback.

    I take it the venturi bore is the part of the bore that is "in contact" with the blade/disc/throttle thingy. You're saying it needs to "seal" up properly when idling, right?

    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    I agree here. Alot of having the right tools for the job makes this project easier or harder. I'm not sure what tools you do/don't have, but things even like a drill press could make this job alot easier than a dewalt drill obviously. So if you already have all of the holesaws, sandpaper, and dremel tips, I'd say give it a swing! If not, I'm with sjsingle on this, $50 and call it done if you don't want to spend the ~$200 for new aftermarket one.
    I was under the impression that it could be done with just a dremel tool (or a dremel tip on a drill). I assumed that was the best way to do it... glad I asked. One thing about learning this kind of stuff is that you never know how ignorant you are until you talk to the right people.
    Last edited by Naaman; 03-11-2011 at 07:37 PM.

  10. #10
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    I was under the impression that it could be done with just a dremel tool (or a dremel tip on a drill). I assumed that was the best way to do it... glad I asked. One thing about learning this kind of stuff is that you never know how ignorant you are until you talk to the right people.
    I'm sure you could, I think it would take more time and be more difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Not impossible, but harder.

    I'm not trying to steer you away from trying, we all have to start somewhere, just pointing out all options.

  11. #11
    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    increased throttle response
    not sure if the 3.8 tb was different but the ls tb in the f bodies you can take some meat off the stopper. that will get you higher than 84%(stock) throttle.

  12. #12
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    [QUOTE=Naaman;2594439][QUOTE


    Effin Awesome! Great feedback.

    I take it the venturi bore is the part of the bore that is "in contact" with the blade/disc/throttle thingy. You're saying it needs to "seal" up properly when idling, right?

    QUOTE]

    No prob.. Yes that is the area.. If you make it misshapen it will effect idle, or it may not even idle @ all..
    Last edited by Smittro; 03-11-2011 at 08:52 PM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    I'm sure you could, I think it would take more time and be more difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Not impossible, but harder.

    I'm not trying to steer you away from trying, we all have to start somewhere, just pointing out all options.
    Yeah. That's how I interpreted it. Thanks for the pointers.

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