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Did you notice a difference with your K&N?

This is a discussion on Did you notice a difference with your K&N? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83 ok, so K&N + NOOB + ENGINE = death .... got it. I just got served..... ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83 View Post
    ok, so K&N + NOOB + ENGINE = death .... got it. I just got served..... mmmm taste like a new regular filter!!! Delightful!
    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83 View Post
    at least i got my K&N for free though, +1 for me. then -10 for being a noob....
    Don't sweat it bro.. Many folks will argue the subject up and down.. But from my experiance with the "mess" they've made, they're hardly worth the money they charge for ify gains., and damage they can cause..
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Here is some light reading material: http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm
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    Touche' on flow data. It was a K&N advertisement that said the airflow through their filter was almost twice that of a 'conventional' filter..."and cleans better than stock paper filters". Guess we souldn't believe everything we hear. So, let me ask, how many times is acceptable to vacuum out the stock paper filter before needing to buy a new one? Once, twice, never???

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    Quote Originally Posted by herculesrider1 View Post
    Touche' on flow data. It was a K&N advertisement that said the airflow through their filter was almost twice that of a 'conventional' filter..."and cleans better than stock paper filters". Guess we souldn't believe everything we hear. So, let me ask, how many times is acceptable to vacuum out the stock paper filter before needing to buy a new one? Once, twice, never???
    IMHO, never.. Buy a new one each time..

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    Member herculesrider1's Avatar
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    Thanks. I had read in a previous post that some guys vacuumed their stock paper filters and it made sense from the standpoint of getting rid of blockages or dirt that would hinder the maximum flow allowed by the filter media. It seems that as long as the filter is not damaged or compromised, getting rid of dirt, sand, foreign material with a vacuum would give you back that 'close to new' filtering ability. I remember with my first car, a '69Camaro, I always replaced the air filter with every oil change/oil filter change, and the oil did stay clean. My T/A before this one was in excellent shape mechanically and I used Mobil1 Synthetic and a K&N air filter for the life of the car. If I wouldn't have totalled it at 152K miles, I'm sure it would still be running strong. At that mileage, it didn't smoke, miss, or run roughly. Matter of fact, at 150K, it would still do 153mph with no problem. Perhaps a combination of the synthetic oil and low micron filter overrode the negative effects of the dirt allowing K&N filter. The bottom line though is what the oil looks like as to how much dirt is coming through the air filter. That is the key and should be our indicator as to the effectiveness of our air filters. Notwithstanding oil analysis of course!

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    so... you will spend big money on "name" airfliters, but when the cheapo paper filter clogs you want to clean it rather than replace it?

    I think we just need to move along to topics (mods) that matter rather than getting hung up on filters and such; just my 2cents though, no rudeness meant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    so... you will spend big money on "name" airfliters, but when the cheapo paper filter clogs you want to clean it rather than replace it?

    I think we just need to move along to topics (mods) that matter rather than getting hung up on filters and such; just my 2cents though, no rudeness meant.
    I'm pretty sure it was in ref to a proceedure some use. Rather than a planned route/course of action...

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    Member herculesrider1's Avatar
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    I thought this was an engine filter thread? You want to move on, feel free. Go to internal engine or external engine if you want to discuss mods. Just because you don't agree with my reasonings does not give you the right to try to shut me down when I'm trying to fully understand the reasons behind why individuals do what they do, in this case, why they vacuum out their old filters. Just as a reference, when I change my oil, with the K&N filter, I don't have to even think about changing it because it's a lifetime filter that only needs cleaning and re-oiling every 50K miles, more if dirty environment. On the other hand when I change my oil, if I changed my air filter everytime, I would spend $13 to $14 each time. I don't know how many times you change your oil, but on an average, if you only change your oil every 5K miles and you put 25K miles a year on your car, that would be 5 filters you would have to buy each year which would come to $70, which is more than you would spend on a K&N. In this day and age, when money is tight, you cut corners everywhere you can and weigh out cost vs. efficiency. Hence the question if it would be acceptable to vacuum out a sound, undamaged filter to get more life out of it. Excuse me for being so analytical or for posting filter related questions on a filter based thread.

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    Member herculesrider1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    I'm pretty sure it was in ref to a proceedure some use. Rather than a planned route/course of action...
    Exactly Smittro... didn't know I was going to get attacked by simply asking a question.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by herculesrider1 View Post
    I thought this was an engine filter thread? You want to move on, feel free. Go to internal engine or external engine if you want to discuss mods. Just because you don't agree with my reasonings does not give you the right to try to shut me down when I'm trying to fully understand the reasons behind why individuals do what they do, in this case, why they vacuum out their old filters. Just as a reference, when I change my oil, with the K&N filter, I don't have to even think about changing it because it's a lifetime filter that only needs cleaning and re-oiling every 50K miles, more if dirty environment. On the other hand when I change my oil, if I changed my air filter everytime, I would spend $13 to $14 each time. I don't know how many times you change your oil, but on an average, if you only change your oil every 5K miles and you put 25K miles a year on your car, that would be 5 filters you would have to buy each year which would come to $70, which is more than you would spend on a K&N. In this day and age, when money is tight, you cut corners everywhere you can and weigh out cost vs. efficiency. Hence the question if it would be acceptable to vacuum out a sound, undamaged filter to get more life out of it. Excuse me for being so analytical or for posting filter related questions on a filter based thread.
    you talk fancy....but is see you were just asking. I would never clean out a used paper filter, just get a K&N. I realy dont think they hurt anything, if they do someone show some proof. Now I have to drive in some dusty crappy areas so I have to clean more and yes the cleaning is a pain in the ass so yes there is a down side to the K&N. BUt as u point out it does save money

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5abivt View Post
    "our net gain was 1.5 hp. Hardly persuasive. Where was the extra horsepower?" (quote from page)

    As I said earlier hardly worth the price of the filter, let alone oiled up damaged electronics..
    Last edited by Smittro; 11-21-2009 at 04:36 AM.

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    K&N for the win.....it adds at least 20hp
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    SO what if you only race with a K&N and then put your regular filter back in after your done? Its no different then the old school guys running open Carbs at the track and then putting it on after the race. At least with a K&N you still got a filter on.
    Oh and cleaning the filter is NOT that hard. Wash it the night before, let it airdry overnight. Oil it up (light coat, not soaking) and slap it in the next morning... not that dramatic. Changing the oil and cleaning your car takes more time and effort.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    The filters were washed and re-oiled every week. After the first season we found so much dirt in our engine on teardown it was a real shock. The whole first layer of the main bearings had been wiped away.
    Not to suggest a wet filter, but that is way to often, and leads to contamination. Speaking of filters, AEM dry flow cleans much better.

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    Member NaviDyn's Avatar
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    I have to because of the way you wrote the post.

    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    I can tell you for a fact K&N filters are junk compared to most ANY other filter. FACT: My cars NEVER miss an oil change intervals of 3000 miles.
    Fact: you threw away good oil and caused premature wear by having extra starts that are dry. Unless you pull the fuel pump fuse and crank for 30 seconds to prime it with pressure.

    I do NOT beat on my car. By filthy I mean BLACK! FACT using the proper GM filter for my car the oil @ 1500 miles was nearly as clear as the day I poured it into my engine. FACT @ 3000 miles oil is brown NOT black, with just a factory air filter.
    Fact: color does not represent the need for a change.

    FACT covered my diffuser screen with oil, MAF covered with oil.
    Just curious, did you let it dry over night as suggested?

    FACT, NO noticible gain in power.
    Sounds right. Don't use a wet filter. They don't filter dirt real well, and it is very easy to over oil.

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    NaviDyn;2147719]I have to because of the way you wrote the post.

    Fact: you threw away good oil and caused premature wear by having extra starts that are dry. Unless you pull the fuel pump fuse and crank for 30 seconds to prime it with pressure.

    What are you talking about?

    Fact: color does not represent the need for a change.

    It most sertainly does. Black oil = dirty and I aint no kid. I've had my hands on many engines.

    Just curious, did you let it dry over night as suggested?

    Sure did! Sometimes longer..They're JUNK period.

    Sounds right. Don't use a wet filter. They don't filter dirt real well, and it is very easy to over oil.[/QUOTE]
    Last edited by Smittro; 11-21-2009 at 05:15 AM.

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    When I change my oil @ 3000 miles it's because my owners manual recommends it. I warm my engine up @ least half way to operating temp first. Drain oil, use freash qt. to push out any remaining dirt in my pan. Fill the filter to capacity, waiting for a moment for the filter element to asorb and refill till it stops and install. Fill to capacity and fire up. Oil gauge shows presure immediatly so no dry start. FYI dry starts happen after the engine sits for long periods of time.

    Black oil generally represents a high carbon and dirt particulates in the oil. So black or heavily discolored oil means dirty..

    Again my car is fly by wire! Meaning I have an electronicly controled throttle, (no cables) the unit is pricey. After finding K&N filter oil and dirt all over my defuser screen, and MAF and my drive by wire unit, I was promted by common sense that it was'nt good for it.. Not to mention my reciever dryer was completely coated in oil.

    When I baught the POS k&n I also baught the $30 recharge kit which came with a large can of cleaner spray and a large can of oil. I followed the directions to the letter and STILL had f'in oil all over. My cars have ZERO damage inside or outside with near perfect fit and finish by my hand. My under carrage is cleaned regularly and so is my engine bay. I take extremely good care of them. I also have an 18 year old car in nearly the same condition as well. I do NOT beat on my cars... These are my performance cars or @ least what I play with..http://www.ls1.com/forums/album.php?albumid=295.......and this is my engine bay..
    Last edited by Smittro; 11-21-2009 at 05:17 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NaviDyn View Post
    Not to suggest a wet filter, but that is way to often, and leads to contamination. Speaking of filters, AEM dry flow cleans much better.

    We raced in the street stock class at a local DIRT track. You had to clean the filter every week. The point was, that even with a properly serviced K&N, a K&N pre-filter, and a shield to protect the air cleaner assembly from debris, our engine was FULL OF DIRT. It certainly did not enter via the fuel system, we never opened the engine at the track, and the oil was changed every second weekend. We would have been far better off utilizing a paper filter and simply replacing it every week.


    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    When I change my oil @ 3000 miles it's because my owners manual recommends it. I warm my engine up @ least half way to operating temp first. Drain oil, use freash qt. to push out any remaining dirt in my pan. Fill the filter to capacity, waiting for a moment for the filter element to asorb and refill till it stops and install. Fill to capacity and fire up. Oil gauge shows presure immediatly so no dry start. FYI dry starts happen after the engine sits for long periods of time.

    Exactly. Except for pouring in a quart to flush the pan (which is a great idea btw) I use the exact same procedure. No dry startup here either.

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    hey guys,

    it's hard for me to get a stock air filter up here in canada for my ws6 so i just bought a k and n since it's rechargeable and lifetime and blah blah,
    no performance gain.....with the free ram air mod, it's gets dirty really quick however...

    I took a blow dryer and blew air throught stock air filter with a piece of paper on the other side, and no air contacted the piece of paper, ( the paper didn't even move) it was like if the stock air filter was a wall to the blow dryer, now i used with k and n and did the same experiment, and air did go through cause the paper on the air side was flapping noticeably.

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