View Poll Results: Which would you get???

Voters
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  • American Racing (stainless)

    27 20.30%
  • QTP (stainless)

    17 12.78%
  • SLP (stainless)

    2 1.50%
  • PaceSetters (ceramic coated)

    59 44.36%
  • OBX (ebay stainless specials)

    11 8.27%
  • none of the above

    17 12.78%
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Buying headers is tough, pls help.

This is a discussion on Buying headers is tough, pls help. within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Eagle LOL, heya Joe! Dynatech's are $1500 for the setup... no room for the wideband in that ...

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    LOL, heya Joe! Dynatech's are $1500 for the setup... no room for the wideband in that budget!
    With a wideband......you definatly have a point lol

  2. #22
    Member blackls1ta's Avatar
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    black
    2000 ws.6 m6

    hooker ceramics here for 400 shipped

  3. #23
    Member Pntbll309's Avatar
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    Arctic White
    1999 Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by blackls1ta View Post
    hooker ceramics here for 400 shipped
    For just the headers. The XS/ SS Autochrome are $440 shipped with a stainles Y.... I dont understand why nobody mentions them.

  4. #24
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    2002 WS6

    Because they're impossible to source and ebay has tons of negative feedback on Autochrome as a company... I did research them but didn't like what I found.

    -Eagle

  5. #25
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    1998 Trans Am WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    Because they're impossible to source and ebay has tons of negative feedback on Autochrome as a company... I did research them but didn't like what I found.

    -Eagle
    I can't speak for everyone, but I had no problem with them.

    The auction got cancelled early when I bought mine, and they still worked with me and sold them for the price that the auction was at when it ended. Good communication, fast shipping, excellent product.

    Haven't heard anyone say any negative things about the company on here either, all good reviews.

  6. #26
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    2002 WS6

    I tried to find pics of their product, but couldn't find anything but negative feedback on product made by Autochrome, but not specific to the LS1... I just couldn't find enough about them to convince me to send them $500 bux.

    -Eagle

  7. #27
    Make real real sure Johns00Z28's Avatar
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    2000 Z-28

    I would go with ARH or QTP if you're looking for top quality stainless from everything I've read. They're y-pipe is apparently designed better as well.

  8. #28
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Ok Chi Town we both are on the same view on a few things so here is my advice.
    You and I both know those jets are going to be up sized sooner or later. You need a good Larger tube header!! Remember your adding more TQ than HP so that loss of bottom end TQ ain't SHIT!! You are adding liquid oxygen basically and it needs to get out.
    So that said BUY quality race header.
    First choice due to your budget would have to be Kooks. Stepped 1 3/4"-1 7/8" primary's. $1138.90


    Nice wideband set-up and is pretty user friendly/ I have these on 2 of my cars if that tells you anything Eagle.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innov...spagenameZWDVW
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

  9. #29
    Junior Member carls2001ws6's Avatar
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    red
    2001 trans am ws6

    I just installed a set of pacesetters with the ory and they fit great. I installed the ebach pro springs a year ago, there are no ground clearance issues. Slow down over speed bumps, you will scrap the K member. The headers tuck up real nice to the bottom of the firewall. My first time replacing headers, and honestly it wasen't that bad. The drivers side was tight. You could use a hammer and smack the firewall slightly to get the flange to clear. No one will ever see the dent and it really does not hurt any thing. You could loosen the motor mounts and shift the block to the passenger side if you don't want to smack the firewall.

  10. #30
    Junior Member carls2001ws6's Avatar
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    red
    2001 trans am ws6

    $420 for the headers
    $120 for the y pipe
    $50 for (4) 3 inch band clamps
    $3 for antiseeze
    $50 new spark plugs (AC Delco Iridium plugs I gapped them at 0.035)
    $35 for 5 4X4 posts from Lowes (to stack like Jenga pieces to lift the car) 35 peices (cut to 12 inches)
    so with tax $700
    Oh and bandaids $5.00
    Tetnis shot $50.00
    and your time should be included
    Doing all the work your self and saving 550 bucks.........PRICELESS

  11. #31
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    +1 Carl! Glad my tetanus is up to date, that way I can afford to buy pizza & beer for all my buddies coming over to help with the install! LOL

    -Eagle

  12. #32
    Junior Member carls2001ws6's Avatar
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    u live by chicago?

  13. #33
    Save money get pacesetters everything else is a head trip.

  14. #34
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    2002 Camaro Z28

    I've had two sets of QTPs (standard and HVMC) and loved both of them. The standards fit the best and the HVMCs took a little massaging to the crossmember, but no big deal in the end. The Y-pipe was a different story though.

    I think, in this order:
    ARH - because I can't recall ever reading a negative post about them, Kooks/QTP - because although I've read negative threads about both of them I think because QTP has a price advantage (and standard HVMCs) and Kooks has a "better" Y-pipe in stainless (although it would seem QTPs may flow better at the expense of ground clearance.) I haven't had experience with many of the other lower-priced stainless LTs but have read about as many negative posts as Kooks/QTP even though they are a lot newer to the LSX LT game. I won't venture to say they aren't quality though.

    Don't forget about Hooker and Edelbrock stainless

  15. #35
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carls2001ws6 View Post
    u live by chicago?
    I work in Chicago, but live 75mi NW of the loop! I'm about 45min from Wooddale. 53 to 90 W, 47 N. That gets u in the ball park... lol!

    -Eagle

  16. #36
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    BTW ALL, I ended up going with the OBX ebay setup. I don't need cats so its resonator setup is ideal for me. I just hope that the quality is there. All the feedback from previous LS1 customers on ebay was positive on the OBX's, so I took a chance with them.

    The money I saved bought me LCA brackets, wideband O2, percy gaskets, O2 extenders and a 160* tstat... I'd say it was worth it!

    -Eagle

  17. #37
    Senior Member grouch0jr's Avatar
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    let us know how it all turns out

  18. #38
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    Let me start out by stating:

    Click here for a bunch of pix of the OBX setup

    Granted, I don't know what I should be expecting but the pipes seem much smaller than what I expected. Primaries measure a tiny 1.5" I.D. - which is really disappointing seeing as the primaries are advertised as 1 3/4"...

    The collectors ARE 3", but the far side of the resonators measure 2 5/8"... and it just keeps getting smaller from there.

    The next pipe past the resonators connect to the y-pipe which measure 2 7/16" into the welded section of the Y... which measures 2 3/4".

    The polishing looks good, welds look fine too.

    The collectors on the header and the y-pipe aren't finished very well and that's also got me concerned.

    What do y'all think about these headers?

    -Eagle

  19. #39
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    Let me start out by stating:

    Click here for a bunch of pix of the OBX setup

    Granted, I don't know what I should be expecting but the pipes seem much smaller than what I expected. Primaries measure a tiny 1.5" I.D. - which is really disappointing seeing as the primaries are advertised as 1 3/4"...

    The collectors ARE 3", but the far side of the resonators measure 2 5/8"... and it just keeps getting smaller from there.

    The next pipe past the resonators connect to the y-pipe which measure 2 7/16" into the welded section of the Y... which measures 2 3/4".

    The polishing looks good, welds look fine too.

    The collectors on the header and the y-pipe aren't finished very well and that's also got me concerned.

    What do y'all think about these headers?

    -Eagle

    You get what you pay for!! I think it's a cheap header that would be great on a STOCK motor. Please hit me up I sent you my #.

  20. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    Let me start out by stating:

    Click here for a bunch of pix of the OBX setup

    Granted, I don't know what I should be expecting but the pipes seem much smaller than what I expected. Primaries measure a tiny 1.5" I.D. - which is really disappointing seeing as the primaries are advertised as 1 3/4"...

    The collectors ARE 3", but the far side of the resonators measure 2 5/8"... and it just keeps getting smaller from there.

    The next pipe past the resonators connect to the y-pipe which measure 2 7/16" into the welded section of the Y... which measures 2 3/4".

    The polishing looks good, welds look fine too.

    The collectors on the header and the y-pipe aren't finished very well and that's also got me concerned.

    What do y'all think about these headers?

    -Eagle


    Pretty much everything that is made dosent have the exact size of the specs. Like a 2x4......is it really a 2x4? No,its not a 2x4...the actual measurement is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2..............but they call it a 2x4 why I have no idea.

    My dynatech headers primaries specs say 1 3/4.... but they actually measure about 1 5/8........
    My collectors specs are 3" but they actually read 2 7/8.....
    ypipe specs are 2 1/2 but its more like 2 3/8
    end of the ypipe where it goes to catback specs are 2 3/4 but its more like 2 5/8.......
    But I did check my stock manifold primary openings at the flange and they do read a perfect 1 3/4 but thats measuring where the machineing begins.
    I dont think people realise the quality and time that goes into the stock parts.All this aftermarket stuff is based on better performance but not exact specs and quality.

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