Bolt-On.. Is it really worth it?

[JoshieDoom]

for over 450 bucks is this thing really worth the price??(90mm btw)

And besides airlids and induction kits what is the best bang for your buck? Ive already completed all the free horsepower mods.

Any ideas on the best wires>? Coil Packs>? etc etc>

Thx Guys.

[JwMonE99]

Damn I didnt think they were 450 bucks...seems kinda high to me

[Bouvers]

my limited understanding on this mod is why bother putting a throttle body that has a bigger opening then the opening on your intake manifold... right?

[splitfinger09]

^^^^yeah good point. What intake manifold would this be bolting up to?

[rajiv1998]

yeah. Port ur stocker and throw an LS6 intake on there. FAST is only good for bigger cubes, h/c, or FI. Plus, I dont think they come with a throttle positioning sensor. I think u have to buy that from FAST.

[Bouvers]

to go further with this point, unless you're upgrading you're stock manifold the best thing you can do is the free mod, port your stock throttle body, this is very beneficial to low end response because you're stock throttle body is restricted and has the same minimal clearance from 0-20% (roughly) throttle positioning.

[Bouvers]

woops should of read both posts before responding. well I second that anyway.

[jag42420]

for over 450 bucks is this thing really worth the price??(90mm btw)

Hey you're about 30 miles form me... Anyway no. Not from where you are. If all you have are the free mods, then you have a long way to go before needing a 90mm TB, which would need a 90mm intake.

And besides airlids and induction kits what is the best bang for your buck? Ive already completed all the free horsepower mods.

Do you have a WS6? Looks like one in your avatar. If so, sealing and debaffling would net you .1-.2 in the quarter. Have you ported and polished your TB? Bump stop ground down?

These cars respond great to bolt ons. The best thing to post is your budget, and you'll get plenty of input from there. Assuming you have about $450 (cost of the TB you posted), I'd suggest looking at used LS6 intake manifolds and a lid. From there, check out headers and exhaust (I'm a true duals fan)...

[JoshieDoom]

Its not a true ws6. Its going to be a ws7 when I get it completed. Its got a ws6/Raptor style variant hood. I plan on debaffling it soon. I havent completed the TB mod because I was thinking about getting a new one Im looking for a short block to bore over and stroke and use ls6 parts on it. Im always in the boro throwing revs at f-bodys every friday night btw. lol. Its got a lot of work to be done on it.

[jag42420]

I'd recommend either having someone here mod your TB ($80-100) or doing it yourself. It isn't hard to do, and can add up to 6 rwhp and better throttle responsiveness. The stock TB is good for up to about 500HP. Are you A4 or M6?

[Eagle]

Don't get that TB unless u have the 90mm FAST intake to go with it.

The stock TB can handle upwards of 500 HP and responds nicely to porting/polishing as well as the bump stop mod (allows the butterfly to open to a full 90* vs 78.8*). I just did the TB mods on my car last weekend myself and I can feel a difference in 1st and anywhere above 4krpm. I also ditched the stock bellows, opting for a $4 3" Fernco plumbing part from the hardware store to increase my airflow. Worked great for the nitrous fitting too!

Don't spend that $450 on a TB until you've got supporting mods, including exhaust.

-Eagle

[Bouvers]

that last post said it all, like he said those throttle bodies are useless without supporting mods.

[JoshieDoom]

I plan on cutting into my hood and sealing it off. and porting the TB this weekend. I have catless Flowmaster 3 Inch exhaust btw. I found a trans am in great shape through family. same year as mine. Motor locked up. 500 bucks. I hope to God its an LS-1 cuz its mine as soon as i find out more heck. the t-tops are worth the 500. I plan on bulding about a 500-700 horse rear-end destroyer out of it. All I need is a short block.

[jag42420]

Here's my $25 Lowes seal. You can see the front baffle, but I removed the rear:

[JoshieDoom]

Thanks for the pic! I think this is going to help my goal of 500hp without force induction.

[jag42420]

Thanks for the pic! I think this is going to help my goal of 500hp without force induction.

A good heads/cam/bolt on package can pull 500+ rwhp on a stock lower end... You shouldn't have a problem.

[JoshieDoom]

I havent has had the chance to rebuild an LS-1. Ive done a few small and big blocks and a couple of antique motors but the LS is a new adventure. All my dad has did in the past was rebuild them back to stock. With all performance rods/pistons/hardware/ on a lower end how much could you crank out safely without talking about new tranny/rear end setup? Keeping it somewhat a badass daily driver.

[jag42420]

I havent has had the chance to rebuild an LS-1. Ive done a few small and big blocks and a couple of antique motors but the LS is a new adventure. All my dad has did in the past was rebuild them back to stock. With all performance rods/pistons/hardware/ on a lower end how much could you crank out safely without talking about new tranny/rear end setup? Keeping it somewhat a badass daily driver.

Once you break 400rwhp, you really need a beefier tranny and rearend. If you're easy on it most of the time it will last longer. The more you get into it, the less time it will last. Of course you really need a good tune to make any power, or the torque management will simply kill your newfound power.

[JoshieDoom]

Since the car is an automatic I guess I would get a built 4l60e. Thanks for all the knowledge lending.

[ApexVIII]

unless you have a 90mm intake then there is no poing. go wil LS6 and P&P stock TB