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bolt ons mods

This is a discussion on bolt ons mods within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Maybe the OP doesn't fully understand how a stall works?...

  1. #21
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Maybe the OP doesn't fully understand how a stall works?

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    a stall is 500 and getting it install that why not worth 1000 bucks for a stall

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMR_TransAm View Post
    a stall is 500 and getting it install that why not worth 1000 bucks for a stall
    $500 sounds steep for installation. So $1000 for the best mod for an A4 is too much, but more money for a fast 102, TB and install that will do almost nothing on a stock motor is worth it? Dude it's your coin and you have to be happy so do what you will. For your budget I'd do the stall, some suspension mods and maybe P&P TB.

  4. #24
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    There is no argument to be made here. A stall is the BEST mod anyone can do performance wise for an A4 for the price. Hands down.

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    Getting all the power to the ground can yield a much faster car than all the simple bolton's you can buy.

    My question would be what type of gain would I be getting with a stall and what stall speed.
    The reason I ask it because of factory torque management and its effect!
    I am leaving my car other than a lid stock up top.
    I have bought and not yet installed a torque arm and relocation kit, SFC's, bolt on and lower arms in a attempt to get the power down better!
    Last edited by 2ManySS's; 01-27-2012 at 01:25 PM.

  6. #26
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ManySS's View Post
    Getting all the power to the ground can yield a much faster car than all the simple bolton's you can buy.

    My question would be what type of gain would I be getting with a stall and what stall speed.
    The reason I ask it because of factory torque management and its effect!
    I am leaving my car other than a lid stock up top.
    I have bought and not yet installed a torque arm and relocation kit, SFC's, bolt on and lower arms in a attempt to get the power down better!
    you'll gain a half a second for a $700 investment......can't beat it. Torque management needs to be addressed with tuning whether you stall the car or not. I wouldn't look at anything less than a 3500 rpm stall......3500-3600 is what I would get (and have).

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    I was at one time looking to get a Predator hand held because I like to tinker somewhat.
    Does that unit address torque management and line pressure decently??
    I know the tranny can't take it if removed, but what would be the safe along with a decent improvement amount of reduction.
    Stall I can do myself so it shouldn't be $700!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ManySS's View Post
    I was at one time looking to get a Predator hand held because I like to tinker somewhat.
    Does that unit address torque management and line pressure decently??
    I know the tranny can't take it if removed, but what would be the safe along with a decent improvement amount of reduction.
    Stall I can do myself so it shouldn't be $700!
    Skip the handheld. Get a tune from Frost. You won't regret it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ManySS's View Post
    I was at one time looking to get a Predator hand held because I like to tinker somewhat.
    Does that unit address torque management and line pressure decently??
    I know the tranny can't take it if removed, but what would be the safe along with a decent improvement amount of reduction.
    Stall I can do myself so it shouldn't be $700!
    that's the price of the stall for a good one....yank or vigilante. I would recommend staying away from the Predator for one simple reason......the stopped giving you control to shut off the O2's. If you can find an older one then it would work but IMO when they did that they removed 90% of the reason to have one. If you remove the cats at some point you still have to use hptuners to shut the codes off. I haven't looked in a while to see what they're selling for but if it were me I'd either go frost mail order or save a few more dollars and buy hptuners.

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    Well I live in NY, no cats no inspection sticker and turning things like that off are also caught.
    I have done mail in tunes before like Frost's, But for what I want to do I thought the Predator might be able to be up to the task. Not looking per say for a power increase, just a little more in the way to ground the power better.
    I have bought the car for collector purposes, kinda my retirement when I can no longer drive so having all the stock pieces around and a handheld allows it to be returned to stock.
    At most I will be driving this car 1500 miles a year max.
    We have another 2 cars that I can play with that are not being saved.
    We have a 1987 Monte Carlo SS that is asking me to do a LS swap into it and then a 32 Duece coupe just kinda sitting and waiting for funds to redo it. I picked it up at a estate sale and it hasn't been on the road since the 80's.

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    does a stall help you on a 40 roll or mostly from a dig?

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMR_TransAm View Post
    does a stall help you on a 40 roll or mostly from a dig?
    it helps you all over.......it lets the car get up to where it makes power and keeps it there through shift extensions. You should spend some time researching and reading on stalls to get a good understanding of what exactly they do. I can give you a quick cliff note version but you should really read more and learn what they do. I will say one of the biggest misconceptions is that if you buy a 3500 rpm stall then the car won't move under 3500 rpms. That's not even close to true. It will take more rpms to move the car but only a few more.....like a couple hundred or so more rpm's to get moving. Also, a stall rating doesn't mean that's where you can brake stall it to or flash it to. Mine is a 3500 and after about 2200 rpm it wants to start pushing through the brakes or spinning the back tires. You will notice more rpm's when cruising around town at say 35mph and you will notice the extra rpm's when taking off from traffic lights. Depending on where you have it set with the tune it will go into lock up at some point......~35-45mph I believe stock. Once it locks up it will drive exactly like stock so your highway driving and anything over like 45mph will be exactly like it is now.
    When you get into the car though it'll be a completely different animal. The rpms will immediately jump up into where you make power and will stay there even through shifts. This is beneficial off the line and from a roll. Notice now stock that when it down gears from a roll the rpm's start out low and slowly build up to your shift point? Not with a nice stall in there.....they shoot up and when you shift there's not that big drop off. The car stays where it makes power.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    it helps you all over.......it lets the car get up to where it makes power and keeps it there through shift extensions. You should spend some time researching and reading on stalls to get a good understanding of what exactly they do. I can give you a quick cliff note version but you should really read more and learn what they do. I will say one of the biggest misconceptions is that if you buy a 3500 rpm stall then the car won't move under 3500 rpms. That's not even close to true. It will take more rpms to move the car but only a few more.....like a couple hundred or so more rpm's to get moving. Also, a stall rating doesn't mean that's where you can brake stall it to or flash it to. Mine is a 3500 and after about 2200 rpm it wants to start pushing through the brakes or spinning the back tires. You will notice more rpm's when cruising around town at say 35mph and you will notice the extra rpm's when taking off from traffic lights. Depending on where you have it set with the tune it will go into lock up at some point......~35-45mph I believe stock. Once it locks up it will drive exactly like stock so your highway driving and anything over like 45mph will be exactly like it is now.
    When you get into the car though it'll be a completely different animal. The rpms will immediately jump up into where you make power and will stay there even through shifts. This is beneficial off the line and from a roll. Notice now stock that when it down gears from a roll the rpm's start out low and slowly build up to your shift point? Not with a nice stall in there.....they shoot up and when you shift there's not that big drop off. The car stays where it makes power.
    Well put, I had the same misunderstanding years ago. I thought a stall was only good for racing and would suck for street driving. I have not had one because I've owned mostly manuals but I have ridden in a few and it's changed my mind completely. If I bought an A4 f-body it's one of the first mods I would do.

  14. #34
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    I have that set up on my car. Stock heads and cam. I only bought the intake and tb because I plan on getting a stroker and the only difference I felt was throttle response and more top end,not much. I agree on the stall I have a 3800 and lca relocation brackets help a lot.

  15. #35
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    stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall

    It's the best $700 you'll spend hands down.
    Knight likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall stall

    It's the best $700 you'll spend hands down.
    I may be off, but I think FBJ is recommending a stall.

    I'd agree too.

  17. #37
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    Just a hint, ya got me

  18. #38
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    I got my '99 Z28 a few days ago, and was gonna ask similar questions until I found this thread. I will take much of the advice given to the OP. However, I have to ask, is there a FAQ for total newbies? I'd like to know the first things to do, such as the freebies like removing the MAF sensor, and also if I should get the near $300 K&N Cold Air Intake, or if I should get the far cheaper SLP Airbox Lid. Or neither. Or both (if that's even possible).
    Last edited by White Knight; 02-05-2012 at 11:57 PM.

  19. #39
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    A lid and exhaust are the "bread and butter" go to bolt on's that everyone seems to do first. Although there is at least one person on the board (I'll leave nameless ) that doesn't seem to grasp that idea.

    From there it's a matter of how much you want to spend. There are literally a dozen easy things to do, some more expensive than others, some are free.

    I wouldn't be surprised if there is a sticky about it somewhere. If not there probably should be.

    A good tune, headers, off road Y, free ram air mod, descreen MAF or SD tune to remove it completely (either requires a tune anyway), converter, gears, coolant bypass, underdrive pulley, cooler thermostat, lightweight K members, wheels, on and on.

    Most (nearly all in my opinion) of this stuff requires a computer tune, so you have to decide what you want and get the tune done afterwards.

  20. #40
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    Not to thread jack and sorry OP if you feel I am BUT how do you de-baffle the hoods? I read something about it just being a couple bolts or rivets to pop out and it comes out. One baffle for water one for debris I am assuming?? Does this even apply to SS hoods?
    Suspension: Lower control arms (Spohn), Drive shaft safety loop, Torque arm (Edlebrock), Strut tower brace, Panhard Bar (BMR)

    Under the Hood: Smooth bellows, Lid, Catch can, LT Headers, ORY, AIR/EGR delete, Poly engine/transmission mounts,

    Exterior: Painted brake calipers (Red), Halo “Spyder” Headlights w/matching parking/turn signals (Black)

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