the best way to change spark plugs

**blackbird33** · 04-22-2007, 02:16 PM

i need to change my plugs in my 99 TA but i cant figure out the best way without droping the engine any advice

**2001NBMZ28** · 04-22-2007, 02:23 PM

Drivers side is easy, passenger side I removed the air pipe and slid the coil pack up - number 8 is the real pain, some get it from underneath. If you still have EGR might cause a problem too, don't have it on mine. If you haven't seen it there's a plug install guide on installuniversity.com

**Mr. Luos** · 04-22-2007, 02:31 PM

Doing my plugs right now. Waiting for the motor to cool.
I have 3 plugs left...#4, #6, and #8.
The others I did with it hot.

Remove the passenger side coilpack for sure. I have found removing the valvecover helps as well.

**juiced99ws6** · 04-22-2007, 02:54 PM

I did my plugs about an hour ago... took me 5 minutes I dont see what the issue is??

See no clearance issues at all

**badazta** · 04-22-2007, 06:05 PM

let someone else do it... Just kidding, I took my starter out and crawled under it.

**yellowv** · 04-22-2007, 07:08 PM

Just take off the AIR tube and the rear coilpack and you can get to it. On my 99' I used to get it easy from the bottom with a socket and open end wrench but for some reason I couldn't do it on my 98' so I just move the coilpack. Take a look and see which would work better in your case. It gets easier the more you do it. I could change them all on the 99' in a little over a half an hour. The first time I did the 98' it took me like 2 1/2 hrs. Hopefully when i do them again (maybe tomorrow if I don't feel lazy) it will be much quicker. The race style headers I have now should help.

**Silver Streak** · 04-22-2007, 07:16 PM

Sell the car and buy one that just had them done?

I just did this twice for 2 friends.. one was a 98 T/A and the other was a 00 T/A. Just could not get the back one out on the 98... ended up sending him to a stearlership to do it. But the 00 we took off the manifolds (since we were putting on headers.. NEVER GET FLOTECH HEADERS!!! THEY SUCK ASS!.. sorry about that... anyway, pulled the wires and plugs.. installed the new ones.. and put the headers over the plugs.. and then just reconnected the wires. MUCH easier than trying to fuck around inbetween everything and mess with the tight places, etc... but for some reason on my 02 it was a piece of cake.. I dunno if I had more room for some reason....

**JoshieDoom** · 05-19-2008, 12:22 AM

Its a bitch and a half on the 98. I took off all the EGR pipes and all of the coilpacks on the passenger side and it still took 15 minutes just to get the plug out.

Now that EGR is deleted it shouldnt be too hard at all.

**Weston_24** · 05-19-2008, 12:25 PM

Just did mine on a 99. The passenger side is cake. The only tough ones are number 6 and 8. The only thing I removed was the air pipe. I did number 8 from the bottom. You just need a lot of patience.

**splitfinger09** · 05-19-2008, 02:14 PM

Originally Posted by juiced99ws6

I did my plugs about an hour ago... took me 5 minutes I dont see what the issue is??

See no clearance issues at all

cheater

**stangslayer98** · 05-19-2008, 07:22 PM

its a pain but can be done the passenger side which is the hardest side can be done from under the car

you will need a swivel extension for the socket to bend in there ehhh thats with longtubes

**Mr. Luos** · 05-19-2008, 07:39 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Doing my plugs right now. Waiting for the motor to cool.
I have 3 plugs left...#4, #6, and #8.
The others I did with it hot.

Remove the passenger side coilpack for sure. I have found removing the valvecover helps as well.

Wow....thread revival.

Did them again roughly a year after the post I quoted.
Motor was cool. 50-60 minutes total.

**yellowv** · 05-19-2008, 07:40 PM

Originally Posted by stangslayer98

its a pain but can be done the passenger side which is the hardest side can be done from under the car

you will need a swivel extension for the socket to bend in there ehhh thats with longtubes

Depends on the year. I had a 99' that I could easily get from underneath. On my 98' with both stock manifolds and long tubes you can't get to #8 from underneath. I have to pull the coil packs on #6 and #8 to get back there. I did mine the other day. Took me about 2 hours, but that is with 2 trips to autozone. First I couldn't find my damn gapper, then I couldn't find my damn short extensions and I also did the fuel filter and swapped the air filter.

**mat23** · 05-19-2008, 08:05 PM

I just attempted changing the suckers on my SS ute ( Aussie Car ) and its completely f...ed because ther brake booster and steerng column is on the opposite side and that side of the block is offset to the rear of the car so its a pain in the arse. All I want to know is how to get the leads of the plugs, they are on there with a death grip and I've allready smoked two leads

**Mr. Luos** · 05-19-2008, 08:06 PM

The best tool I have ever found....

1.75" extension.

**scotthd** · 05-19-2008, 08:55 PM

just did mine over the weekend not to terribly bad took me about two hours i read where they said to rmove coil pack rail but I couldnt get to the rear bolt on mine and found it easier to get from underneat make sure to have a good socket wrench I used one with a swivel and 90 adjust also had to use a universal on top of that and agree with mr lou I would have killed for a inch and three quarter extension

**mat23** · 05-19-2008, 10:36 PM

it took plenty of swearing and quite a few beers but I'm done now. I now know the true value of the inch and three quarter extension.

**02nbmvert** · 05-20-2008, 08:33 AM

get under the car for #8... if you cant jack it up, use a drive way to park the passenger side up on a tall curb... worked for me anyway. With the swivel extension you can get it if your arm fits between the cat and tranny... It took me a few mins of messing with it, but thats the only way I could get it. Good luck to you!

**StuntmanMike** · 05-20-2008, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

The best tool I have ever found....

1.75" extension.

Why is this so important? I'm gearing up to do a plug change this weekend, and am looking to see what tool I'll need.

I was looking at tools at Autozone, and saw a few interesting things.

They have some special spark plug socks; one was longer than normal and magnetized, one had a built in u-joint, and one was mounted on a flexible shaft connected to a t-handle.

The also had a nice 3/8 drive stubby ratchet with a swivel head. I'm pretty sure they had a 1.75" extension too.

Would any of these help?

I also bought something the other day, the Stanley "Rotator". It works like a normal 3/8" drive ratchet, but then you can twist the handle like a screwdriver and that will turn the socket also. I thought it might come in handy. I haven't opened it yet, if I don't need it during the plug change I'll probably return it.

There was a good thread on this a few months ago, somone actually posted a pic of all the tools they used. I'll be damned if I can find it now though.

**Mr. Luos** · 05-20-2008, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by StuntmanMike

Why is this so important? I'm gearing up to do a plug change this weekend, and am looking to see what tool I'll need.

Just the right length to get to #8 and #1.
#1 sits under the temp. sender and if you use a 3" extension, you are hitting the brake lines at the ABS block.
#8 is a pain either way. But with a 3" extension, you are hitting the firewall.

It takes me a total of 45 minutes or so to change all eight anymore.
And I don't use a swiveling head either.