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best new induction setup on my SS???

This is a discussion on best new induction setup on my SS??? within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by nhraformula get any lid that on sale. get a hooker exhaust for some more power and better ...

  1. #21
    Impounded
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhraformula
    get any lid that on sale. get a hooker exhaust for some more power and better sound.

    Agreed

  2. #22
    Member 89LX's Avatar
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    Hooker CatBack

    Installed my Hooker CatBack yesterday and like the sound. Idle much the same as stock. WOT sounds great with a roar/rumble and no back popping or crackling. I do not like the Dual 3" tips. They appear too large in comparision to the stock rectangle outlets. The R/H pipe won't go up as far as I would like due to the spare tire wheel well projecting down. If you want them tucked up tight under the bumper and not hanging down in comparsion to stock take this information into account if you buy this system for a 2000 Z28. Overall I like the system for the price and the sound is great just don't like the pipes so low. $409.00

  3. #23
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I can tell you with the FRA mod, lid, smooth bellow, ported and polished TB, and LS6 intake my car sounds like a frigin vacuum cleaner at idle. Your filter will get dirty faster but I use a K&N so it's not that big of a deal to clean it a little more often.
    zboner, I did the $4 hardware store hose mod first and I'd say for someone hurting for money that works just fine but compared to the baker hose or a true smooth bellows the fit sucks and as much as I have my shit apart I don't want to fight it on and off all the time so I went with the baker hose which is much easier to work with.

  4. #24
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    Buy any kind of lid first. if the air coming in through the hood scoop is not sealed then the free air mod should not hurt. the SSRA is a good ram air kit I use it on my car and I have had no problem with water in the engine. The air filter does need to be cleaned every 5000 miles or so though. A granitelli MAF reduce my time in the 1000ft by 3/10 second. The second best mod I have had done was to have the muffler cut out.

  5. #25
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    After reading through this thread it does not appear that their is any info or users of the cold air intake by volant or fipk by fram. I would like to see if their claims are true of approx 10+ hp gain compaired to the lids and their proven 5 hp gain.
    Last edited by ssgunny; 06-24-2006 at 10:42 AM.

  6. #26
    Member Ripper415's Avatar
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    In regards to the baker hose....I went on their website and they have several things that I think might work. Here are 2 links http://bakerprecision.com/purosil4.htm
    http://bakerprecision.com/splsilicone.htm
    which one is the one you guys were talking about, or would either of them work fine?

  7. #27
    Member myk02k's Avatar
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    I'll give you my 2 cents on intakes.

    With $400 you don't really have too much options, but an intake or exhaust is your best bet for HP gains per dollar. An exhaust calls for attention, but intakes don't unless you open your hood. It also does change the tone of your car while running and makes it sound a bit more beastly because of those damn bellows. Anyways, here are your options.

    1) Throttle body coolant line bypass. CHEAP mod. Around $12 for 6-8 RWHP. Coolant lines run through your intake which in return heat up the air, causing the air to be less dense (cold air = denser, denser air = more molecules per cubic inch, more air molecules per space allotted = less work to get air, less work to get air = more energy to be used on creating power). All you need is 2 feet of 5/8 fuel line hose, one 5/8 brass barb, one 5/8 to 1/4 brass barb connector, one 1/4 brass barb, 3 clamps, one 5/8 plastic plug, and one 5/8 plastic plug from Home Depot. The fuel line hose you might have to go to a local store to find.

    2) Intake lid. Many options.
    -CHEAPEST way to do it is to remove the intake resonator and shave down the inside of the lid. Also fob up a smooth bellow from any Home Depot near you.
    -In my opinion, a high performance lid is like any other high performance lid. Maybe a slight difference in HP, but all that really matters on a high performance lid is the cost you can find them for. Granatelli's lid, SLP lid, LG Performance, LMP Performance, Texas Speed, QM, and Whisper. In my opinion all of these lids will do the job and it should only matter in what's the cheapest price you can find them for. PM me and I can help you out on a price for a lid.

    3) Coned intakes. I love these personally. It gives a different personality for the intake, although it's a little more money. Volant and K&N make good intakes, but I personally like K&N FIPK better and was my choice of purchase.

    4) K&N filter. Get it if you get a lid. Will last forever.

    5) SLP's cold air under-scoop. I'd get it if I had a lid. My brother has one and lives in NJ and has never had a problem. There are slots to block it off if its raining, but really isn't necessary. A little bit of water in the motor won't hurt it. Most likely it'll evaporate from the heat before it'll be combusted and water can help clean out hydrocarbons in the motor. Too much of course will be bad, but its gotta be too hard for water to travel upwards into the motor from the underbody. It's most likely easier for water to get in the motor from your SS hood.

    6) Throttle body. Port it if you can or ship it for someone else to. That or save up for a BBK or SLP TB.

    7) Mass Air-Flow. A little more on the expense, but does add a very safe 10-25 HP. Install is easy. Granatelli makes some good MAFs. SLP does but I haven't heard anything about it. As far as Granatelli, they have a very good customer support and will be there to help you if you have ANY problems. I can't say the same for SLP.

    Well there it is. Good luck.

  8. #28
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    #7 iscomplete waste of money, dont get it

  9. #29
    Member myk02k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baseballss View Post
    #7 iscomplete waste of money, dont get it
    ever try one out?

  10. #30
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myk02k View Post
    ever try one out?
    I had a Granetelli back in 01 and it misfired alot. Took it off and sold it.

  11. #31
    Member myk02k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    I had a Granetelli back in 01 and it misfired alot. Took it off and sold it.
    sucks for you. should've called and exchanged it for another one if it was a malfunctioning MAF. did you have any other mods? i know that they have two different MAFs, one for cold-air intakes and another for general set-ups. if you have a cold-air setup you need their cold-air MAF, because cold-air setups have more air turbulence and its harder to read the incoming air. i'm not sure, but i think the differences are screened and unscreened, which does more than you think.

  12. #32
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myk02k View Post
    sucks for you. should've called and exchanged it for another one if it was a malfunctioning MAF. did you have any other mods? i know that they have two different MAFs, one for cold-air intakes and another for general set-ups. if you have a cold-air setup you need their cold-air MAF, because cold-air setups have more air turbulence and its harder to read the incoming air. i'm not sure, but i think the differences are screened and unscreened, which does more than you think.
    I bought the one the sponsors were selling. The stock one works in all applications, see no reason why the Granitelli shouldn't. It worked ok till the Mac headers went on I believe. Didn't notice a difference anyway.

  13. #33
    Member myk02k's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=INMY01TA;329529] The stock one works in all applications, see no reason why the Granitelli shouldn't. It worked ok till the Mac headers went on I believe.[QUOTE]

    that's like saying the stock exhaust works in all applications and the aftermarket ones rasp up in different applications, so why even bother changing it? i just put on a hooker cat-back exhaust and now i'm getting backfire. sometimes usually a tune makes the difference on applications. hell headers are known to lose HP unless they get tuned.

    Although the GMS MAF shouldn't require any tuning, there's a reason why they have 3 different MAFs for our car; different setups require different supporting applications. It's just like getting the right intake for the rest of your mods and/or supporting ram air and getting the right exhaust to support the other mods you have (ie camshaft, lowering springs, ect).

  14. #34
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myk02k View Post
    i know that they have two different MAFs,
    1st there were two, now there are three. When I bought mine there was one and it was poo. People quit buying/using these things like 4 or 5 years ago. I'm surprised they still sell em.

  15. #35
    Member myk02k's Avatar
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    lol, my bad they have a few. you figure it out. i'm at their site...and for ls1s they have their general MAF (which i think there's two because one is for cold air and the other is not) and Low Cost MAFs which I forgot about.

    anyways, Ripper you getting the Vortech intake? find a good cost?
    Last edited by myk02k; 07-04-2006 at 05:00 PM.

  16. #36
    Member Ripper415's Avatar
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    well from what i've read here and on other sites (and based largely on my budget) i'm just gonna get a lid for starters (prob slp) and then do the fra mod. i figure that if i eventually decide to get a cai or ram air like the ssra or fast toys i'd need to cut out that part of the air box anyway, so i wont be doing any harm by doing that now. i also just bought that $6 fernco hose from home depot and i'll use that as my ghetto smooth bellows and save $50. finally, i'm considering porting out the tb while im down there but haven't really decided yet because it supposidly takes hours and i'm not exactly a handyman with tools.

  17. #37
    Member jmhvenom's Avatar
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    Stock MAF and throttle body can support up to 350 rwhp easy if not more. no need to change them out. Get a cutout, a lid, do the free mods prolly still have 200 left over to put towards headers or could buy a pulley.

  18. #38
    Member myk02k's Avatar
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    porting MAF = no, no

    if you destroy it, realize your car cold-air intake (if you get it) can't handle a descreened MAF, or break off those solenoids you're screwed. its too expensive of a replacement if you screw up. if your gonna do anything to the MAF get a high performance MAF, DO NOT port it. with TB porting there's minimal risk of damaging something because there's nothing sensitive to break off. after looking at the back of your TB i bet you'll wanna get a catch can too (you'll see). Do the TB bypass too, it's easy and you can buy all the equipment from a hardware store.

    1 3/8 clamp
    3/8 brass barb
    3/8 to 1/4 brass barb adapter/connector
    1/4 brass barb
    2 ft. 1/4 fuel line hose
    2 1/4 clamps

    if you don't believe me it does something check out http://www.ws6.com and look for their dyno chart on this mod.

    I thought we were talking about induction set-ups here. Why are people now bringing up exhaust? That's a whole other convo. What I've been doing is just evenly working on everything. I go back and fourth on intake and exhaust to free them up evenly.
    Good luck.

  19. #39
    Member Ripper415's Avatar
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    well I never mentioned anything about porting the maf, only the tb. about the tb bypass, i've read a lot of stuff on how bs it was and how if you live in areas where it gets below freezing in the winters (i do) it can be harmful to your car. also, what exactly is a catch can?

  20. #40
    Member myk02k's Avatar
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    if it gets cold where you are, then leave it.

    in an ls1, the pcv valve has a tendency to suck up oil and into the intake manifold especially if you drive it hard. this is obviously not good for performance and gets oil where it doesnt belong. an oil catch can fobs up to the pcv valve so any oil that gets into the line, it gets trapped in the can and the pcv valve functions the way its suppose to.

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