BBK headers & y-pipe
This is a discussion on BBK headers & y-pipe within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I found a few answers using the search. But not all of what I wanted to know. Anyone on here ...
02-22-2011, 02:36 PM #1
BBK headers & y-pipe
I found a few answers using the search. But not all of what I wanted to know.
Anyone on here run BBK headers and y-pipe?
Is the y-pipe on the ceramic coated headers coated or just mild steel?
Anyone get the chrome?
02-22-2011, 03:59 PM #2
02-23-2011, 04:38 PM #3
I've been itching to pull the trigger on them for some time now. Great price, tough to match the "bang for buck" on these headers/y-pipe combo.
02-24-2011, 02:04 PM #4
I have BBK's with the Ypipe, Mine fit just fine no issues other then it slightly hitting the KB Subframe connector on the drivers side.1993 Z28 M6: K&N Intake, 52mm TB, TB Bypass, No Cats, Exhaust Cutout, Flowmaster Muffler, 3.90 Gears, 160 Thermo, Tune, BMR Springs, Bilstein Shocks, 3 Point SFC,s & MGW Shifter.
02-24-2011, 05:10 PM #5
02-25-2011, 07:10 PM #6
The BBK LT ceramic coated header w/ORY Is well worth the $500, even if you can't get it for less. It has great ground clearance(I have more now), a nice merger on the Y-pipe, and the fitment and finish are surprisingly good, and i would say the same if it cost $800!
Here they are mounted with my new exhaust:
Here's the idle clip!
Last edited by Blue28; 02-25-2011 at 07:12 PM.
02-26-2011, 05:14 PM #7
Thats great ground clearance. I might have to order a set of these in the next few days. Probably gonna be chrome instead of the ceramic though.
02-26-2011, 05:16 PM #8
Does anyone have any data on how much of a temperature drop the ceramic coating offers over chrome or painted?
02-28-2011, 07:00 AM #9
I just ordered a set of BBK LTs and a polyurethane motor and trans mount kit.
I decided to get the chrome.
Any special tips for removal of the old parts other than lots of penetrating oil and get the car high in hte air?
02-28-2011, 07:29 AM #10
I'd install the motor mounts right after you remove the factory exhaust mounts, put a light coat of antiseeze on the header bolts then install the driveside header with a couple bolts(front and rear) just lightly snug them up then check to see where you want to route the O2 wiring. Go to the passengerside and do the same except torque to gm specs., now check your clearance around the collector flange.
Mine was slightly touching the heat shield so I loosened the front header bolt and removed the rear bolt, then removed the heat shield and lightly messaged the floor pan up about about 1/8", I did it 1" before and after the close spot. I reinstalled the heat shield and did the same.
You might not have any issue there, since every car can be a little different, so just make sure you have about 1/8" of clearance.
On the passenger side the O2 routing is easy, but I did slightly modify the plastic shield by the starter to wire-tie the O2 wiring.
I also installed some high tempt aluminum flexloom to the fuel lines above the driverside pipe going to the merger for a peace of mind, it wasn't really necessary, I just felt better doing it.
If you haven't figured out already I'm a little it of a perfectionist with how I want things done.
Last edited by Blue28; 02-28-2011 at 09:13 AM.
03-02-2011, 07:30 AM #11
Thanks for the advice. I'll check for the clearance issue.
Definately will add the heat sheild on the fuel line. Thats always a great idea.
I will be doing this friday. I'll post a few pics of the install.
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