Advice for first mods

**phoenixXIV** · 09-16-2010, 09:41 PM

So heres my situation. I recently acquired a bone stock 98 Z28 and I am planning to do some work to it in December. Thing is I'm away at college so this will probably be all that I do for a year or two. I'm thinking small, but hey, I gotta start somewhere. I'd like some advice for what to do with my exhaust. (I'm not doing anything else performance-wise for the time being, but I have big plans for the future)

The way see it I can get either:
1. CAI and catback
or
2. Headers and true duals (should I get TSP or custom? Dumped?)

I'm thinking option 2 but I just want to hear some honest opinions.

**2000ls1tranz** · 09-16-2010, 10:51 PM

i would do #2 headers ...i have tsp x pipe true duals an like it... going to also do a custom setup to it run it all the way back with the bullet muffles an have 2 cutouts before the rear...will let ya know how it turns out if ya want ...getting done monday

**TerribleTed** · 09-17-2010, 05:35 AM

Originally Posted by phoenixXIV

So heres my situation. I recently acquired a bone stock 98 Z28 and I am planning to do some work to it in December. Thing is I'm away at college so this will probably be all that I do for a year or two. I'm thinking small, but hey, I gotta start somewhere. I'd like some advice for what to do with my exhaust. (I'm not doing anything else performance-wise for the time being, but I have big plans for the future)

The way see it I can get either:
1. CAI and catback
or
2. Headers and true duals (should I get TSP or custom? Dumped?)

I'm thinking option 2 but I just want to hear some honest opinions.

>Do a full compression check first to see if you have good psi's, then replace at least your valve springs with some decent ones (not stock ones),,,then you can at least have a car that will take repeated hits (that is mis shifts and over revs) before and or after you up the exhaust system...and dont forget that tune after you free up that exhaust,,

**35th-ANV-SS** · 09-17-2010, 06:09 AM

Your very first mod should be sub-frame connectors...

THEN you should do exhaust and a lid. If money allows, LTs. If you get LTs, go stainless steel if you can afford it. Kooks and ARH are the best. Middle of the road (not SS) is Pacesetter.

Exhaust....really depends on what your "big plans" are down the road. If you are putting in a cam, GMMG sounds wicked.

I really am starting to like the dumped pre-axle look.

**camaro02sprspt** · 09-17-2010, 06:17 AM

option 2 i love it, bullets dumped

**KMdef9** · 09-17-2010, 09:37 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

Your very first mod should be sub-frame connectors...

+1

I wouldn't bother with CAI, money can be spent better on other things.

**phoenixXIV** · 09-17-2010, 11:34 AM

Originally Posted by 2000ls1tranz

i would do #2 headers ...i have tsp x pipe true duals an like it... going to also do a custom setup to it run it all the way back with the bullet muffles an have 2 cutouts before the rear...will let ya know how it turns out if ya want ...getting done monday

Definitely. Let me know how it goes.

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

Your very first mod should be sub-frame connectors...

THEN you should do exhaust and a lid. If money allows, LTs. If you get LTs, go stainless steel if you can afford it. Kooks and ARH are the best. Middle of the road (not SS) is Pacesetter.

Exhaust....really depends on what your "big plans" are down the road. If you are putting in a cam, GMMG sounds wicked.

I really am starting to like the dumped pre-axle look.

Originally Posted by KMdef9

+1

I wouldn't bother with CAI, money can be spent better on other things.

Suspension/chassis/drivetrain, etc will be the first thing I take care of before any more performance mods.

**meadowz06** · 09-17-2010, 06:46 PM

Air coming in, air going out. Air intake, exhaust. Then if you want your car to obnoxious go with the long tube headers and no cats. For starters, exhaust and air intake. And a hurst shifter would help also. If it is a daily driver, I do NOT recommend long tube headers. But hey, I am over 40!

**bobage24** · 09-17-2010, 09:32 PM

I would go with a CAI and headers instead of the true duals. A stock engine isn't going to see much, if any, gain with a true dual setup, but headers and CAI would help get more air and fuel in, and spent gases out.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 09-18-2010, 09:29 AM

I personally don't think CAI do much for our cars...and honestly don't see too many people on here that run it. I've been wrong before though.

**tatertot91** · 09-18-2010, 09:49 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

Your very first mod should be sub-frame connectors....

Right there with ya on the SFCs, should be the first mod

As far as performance:
#1: Take care off all the free mods, keeps you busy for a short period of time and doesn't hurt your wallet
#2: Lid - cheap, cleans up engine bay a lot
#3: Catback - I would recommend magnaflow, tame at idle/light throttle, screams at WOT (sounds great after headers/ORY)
If you want an extremely loud car go true duals but being as i drive in and out of my neighborhood at odd hours morning/night i wanted something relatively tame
#4: Seeing as you have a 98 i would recommend an LS6 intake, can be had for a decent price if you shop around, relatively easy install
#5: Headers and an ORY, preferably longtubes.

**mrc54** · 09-20-2010, 06:15 AM

#1 LCA relocation brackets. I have done the SLP lid, smooth bellows, Fast toys air scoop, they all added power, but it's no good if you can't put the power to the ground.

**Mike0202** · 09-20-2010, 08:35 AM

I think I would to long tubes first with a lid. The factory exhaust isnt that bad. I dont think I gained any noticable power going from the stock ws6 exhaust to hooker.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 09-20-2010, 09:48 AM

I did not have a before DYNO pull so I don't know where my car was stock...but the only power adders I have on my car are Kooks 1-7/8" LTs, a Kooks ORY, Exhaust, and a lid.

I DYNO'd 330rwhp and 342rwtq on a Mustang DYNO which reads lower than a DynoJet.

That is going through a 9" rear end, which is 6% less efficient than the stock 10 bolt.

Personally, I think LTs and exhaust together will net you about 25-30rwhp. The stock manifolds and y-pipe are pretty restrictive on our cars.

**camaro02sprspt** · 09-20-2010, 02:32 PM

when i did my PC LT and exhuat i had a big jump in power, but no DYNO charts to go by, just feel...but i also agree with 35th-ANV-SS and doing SFC....wishing that i did that too, now i have fish eyes on my rear quarter panel.

**bberretta** · 09-22-2010, 06:26 PM

First, do all your free mods. Suspension and brakes second- it doesn't matter if you add 1000 hp onto your car if the frame tweaks and you can't stop it. Start with sub frame connectors- bolt in 2 points are inexpensive and well worth it. Then focus on intake and exhaust.

**Mike0202** · 09-22-2010, 06:30 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I did not have a before DYNO pull so I don't know where my car was stock...but the only power adders I have on my car are Kooks 1-7/8" LTs, a Kooks ORY, Exhaust, and a lid.

I DYNO'd 330rwhp and 342rwtq on a Mustang DYNO which reads lower than a DynoJet.

That is going through a 9" rear end, which is 6% less efficient than the stock 10 bolt.

Personally, I think LTs and exhaust together will net you about 25-30rwhp. The stock manifolds and y-pipe are pretty restrictive on our cars.

Ya I read an article where 30rwh was picked up just with LT's and a 3" Y pipe. I believe the catback only picked up about 3rwh. They said the stock ws6 cb flowed surprisingly well. My guess is more hp would be freed up on a base model ta/z28.